Eidos AW14 Lookbook
Purificacion Garcia AW14 Lookbook
A Summer Essential
A quintessential attire during Pitti Uomo, suits are a constant presence even under the scorching heat Firenze is known for in Summer. Among the myriad of outstanding bespoke works of art, there were some in particular that constantly turned heads: the Solaros. Originally believed to reflect sunlight with a cooling effect, Solaro fabric has been traditionally embraced as a Summer staple. In reality, however, Solaro is a mid-weight wool or cotton fabric, that ranks far behind other lightweight alternatives such as linen. So, what makes it so desirable?
Its main feature is the unique construction which incorporates a contrasting color weft on the underside. Usually presented in herringbone or twill weaves, this distinct feature has earned Solaro universal praise due to the trademark aesthetic and visual appeal. The contrast weft shines through with an iridiscent effect that changes color according to the intensity and orientation of the light source; needless to say this effect is at its best during sunny days.
Although the most common combination is beige with red weft, Solaro is available in a variety of shades including navy, green or brown. Despite not being an alternative for everyone, I must admit I was absolutely taken by it, so much so, that I ordered a cut from Caccioppoli Napoli for a bespoke suit which is now in the making (more on that soon).
Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Beyond Fabric
(above: lighter shades of Solaro, including a more subtle version with silk)
(above: Solaro trousers)
Brioni SS15 Collection
MAN 1924 SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, the outstanding label run by my friends Carlos, Jorge and Olga needs little to no introduction. From Spain to the world, they have been able to set MAN 1924 as a menswear reference for good taste and classic tailoring with a twist. Meeting with them and going over their creations is always pleasure: besides the amazing garments, they present what is arguably the best styling and layering at Pitti.
The perfectly balanced mix of casual and polished elements, brilliant pattern and texture combinations and superb use of accessories, results in an eye-catching collection that appeals to most. To top it off, a brief conversation is enough to understand their passion and the authenticity poured into each creation, as they embody this very personal style and philosophy reminiscent of the Spanish tradition.
For SS15, the collection delivers a classic color palette focused on pastels, with the occasional navy and blue adding some contrast. Linen and lightweight cottons are abundant, as are special waxed and washed finishings spread throughout blazers, parkas and safari jackets. Their interpretation of the safari, featuring a super soft washed cotton fabric and details such as epaulets, belt and deep pockets was probably one of my favourite pieces on display at the fair.
The Perfect Tab
Having worked in the shirting business for the last 2 years, I’ve developed a serious passion and consideration for the dress shirt. Once overlooked as a mere complement to any menswear attire, it has recently achieved a much deserved popularity as a stand-out piece in most wardrobes. This pro-shirt movement has resulted in a variety of models ranging from fashion forward to reinterpretations of classics such as the club, pin or tab collar.
Among the latter, one of my personal favourites is definitely the tab collar: a trademark gentleman’s staple, the tab is the perfect match for all those who love or have to incorporate a tie in their ensemble. This specific model features two tabs located at the middle of the collar points, which fasten beneath the tie, elevating the knot and creating a unique flare that portays elegance and distinction. When renowned shirtmaker Emmett London contacted me a while back, I was excited to test run its version of this menswear essential.
Made from super fine Giza 87 poplin, this slim fit dress shirt features a snap closure tab of perfect proportions: the collar points sit beautifully on the shirt front, while the tie knot rises to the perfect height. The slim fit is spot on, as is the construction and small details such as mother-of-pearl buttons and high stich density. To match its elegance, I went for a put together look with my own personal twist: the fully unstructured peak lapel blazer and tailored slacks are toned down by the woven vest, while the color palette picks up on different shades of blue namely through the accessories.
Details: peak lapel cotton/silk blazer by Adam Kimmel, garment dyed vest by 1st PAT-RN, giza 87 poplin tab collar shirt by Emmett London, mto slacks by Gentleman Tailors, woven leather loafers by Buttero, polka dot tie by Purificacion Garcia, braces by Boggi and watch by Rolex.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
Façonnable SS15 Lookbook
Sciamàt SS15 Pitti Preview
On the brink of sartorial perfection…that’s my interpretation of Nicola and Valentino Ricci’s creations. The only real reason I don’t call them embodied perfection, is due to my inherent way of being that compels me to believe that there’s always room for improvement, however little it may be. The truth is that apart from slight taste subtleties, that might lead you to question whether those outstanding peak lapels should be 1cm narrower or wider, or what particular color stripe you wished to see in that windowpane fabric, there’s really nothing else you can beg to differ when it comes to Sciamàt.
Showcasing a fully handmade ready-to-wear line, the cut, fit and proportion were spot on. From the impeccable artisanal construction and true attention to the slightest detail, up to the choice of fabrics and color palette, each garment on display rightfully deserved a place in every sartorial aficionado’s wardrobe (myself very much included). When you consider that besides these offerings they are able to provide you with some of the finest bespoke creations out there, there’s not much more you could ask for..
Ph: Beyond Fabric