1ST PAT-RN SS15 Pitti Preview
Visiting Silvia, Alessio and Cris has become a regular entry on my agenda ever since I came across 1ST PAT-RN. As a fan and proud owner of 3 of their jackets, it’s always a pleasure to check in and discuss new developments and designs. The unique military inspired aesthetic along with an exclusive “cavalry di maglia” fabric, allows for a tailored yet comfortable look: fully unstructured with no lining, the knitted fabric adjusts to the body and regains its shape after each wash.
For SS15, the major change comes through the addition of bottom pieces such as the indigo selvedge denim and knitted shorts. Also, next season sees a new fabric development come to life: the “gabardina a maglia”, a sort of gabardine twill that provides the first woven approach to 1ST PAT-RN models. Besides the essential single and double breasted jackets, new worker jackets made the cut in beautiful camel and indigo shades.
Engineered Garments SS15
Daiki Suzuki delivers another outstanding collection: a perfect materialization of the vintage-inspired aesthetic Engineered Garments has been known for. Mixing elements of British military stationed in India with a somewhat preppy influence, the result is an incredible mix of pattern and texture, spread throughout reinvented classics.
Brioni SS15 Collection
MAN 1924 SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, the outstanding label run by my friends Carlos, Jorge and Olga needs little to no introduction. From Spain to the world, they have been able to set MAN 1924 as a menswear reference for good taste and classic tailoring with a twist. Meeting with them and going over their creations is always pleasure: besides the amazing garments, they present what is arguably the best styling and layering at Pitti.
The perfectly balanced mix of casual and polished elements, brilliant pattern and texture combinations and superb use of accessories, results in an eye-catching collection that appeals to most. To top it off, a brief conversation is enough to understand their passion and the authenticity poured into each creation, as they embody this very personal style and philosophy reminiscent of the Spanish tradition.
For SS15, the collection delivers a classic color palette focused on pastels, with the occasional navy and blue adding some contrast. Linen and lightweight cottons are abundant, as are special waxed and washed finishings spread throughout blazers, parkas and safari jackets. Their interpretation of the safari, featuring a super soft washed cotton fabric and details such as epaulets, belt and deep pockets was probably one of my favourite pieces on display at the fair.
Façonnable SS15 Lookbook
CAMO SS15 Pitti Preview
Sciamàt SS15 Pitti Preview
On the brink of sartorial perfection…that’s my interpretation of Nicola and Valentino Ricci’s creations. The only real reason I don’t call them embodied perfection, is due to my inherent way of being that compels me to believe that there’s always room for improvement, however little it may be. The truth is that apart from slight taste subtleties, that might lead you to question whether those outstanding peak lapels should be 1cm narrower or wider, or what particular color stripe you wished to see in that windowpane fabric, there’s really nothing else you can beg to differ when it comes to Sciamàt.
Showcasing a fully handmade ready-to-wear line, the cut, fit and proportion were spot on. From the impeccable artisanal construction and true attention to the slightest detail, up to the choice of fabrics and color palette, each garment on display rightfully deserved a place in every sartorial aficionado’s wardrobe (myself very much included). When you consider that besides these offerings they are able to provide you with some of the finest bespoke creations out there, there’s not much more you could ask for..
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Suitsupply showcases a small glimpse of its moodboard inspiration for SS15.
Working with Biella based weavers E. Thomas, Ferla and Vitale Barberis Canonico, we can expect a variety of reinterpreted fabrics dating back to the 19th century, carefully stored within these weaver’s archives: linen, cotton, summer cashmere, kid mohair and seersucker are but a part of this selection. The spice trail also bears a presence in the collection, namely in what regards warmer, dynamic shades that complement the traditional navy and royal blue.
Patrick Grant on E.Tautz SS15 Collection. Read the full spread here.
"I don’t think you can ever design just for one person, or just for yourself. Personal tastes are just too narrow. But you design with one single sense in mind, this sense that comes from all of the work you put in at the beginning of the collection. It needs to be something new, but something that people who share your ideas, on everything from art to social history, will understand and want to follow you into."