Orlebar Brown SS15 Pitti Preview
When it comes to high-end beachwear, few other brands have earned the success and recognition of Orlebar Brown…and rightfully so. It feels kind of limiting referring to OB as purely beach/swimwear, especially since the company has been constantly evolving to expand and improve their offerings.
Although their swim shorts and casual polos still take the lead when it comes to brand awareness and sheer quality, namely the versions with photographic prints, the SS15 collection features welcome additions such as a variety of tees using the same technique, sweaters, shirts and sneakers. Besides the quality and fit of the garments, production is based in Portugal which just adds another note of personal love from my end. Hopefully I’ll be able to visit their facilities soon and grant you a sneak peek into the backstage.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Buttero SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, Buttero needs no introduction… universally praised as one the best sneaker manufacturers around, the Tuscan-based family brand has elevated its models to new standards. As one of their biggest fans and supporters, I’m constantly showcasing their other footwear alternatives, namely boat shoes, loafers, derbies and the exclusive boots dating back to the brand’s origins.
Celebrating its 40th anniversary, the SS15 collection places a heavy bet on more casual models, including a variety of sneakers, slip-ons and sandals, without forgetting some more classic alternatives. Making use of some of the best vegetable tanned leather and suede out there, the result is an amazing mix of materials in both subtle and bright shades, along with beautiful craftsmanship as seen in the braided leather versions. New additions include a lightweight construction making use of cork-based soles with vibram layering. Their AW14 collection is now online at the official website.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Wooster + Lardini Collection
One of the most hyped events taking place during the latest edition of Pitti Uomo, was undoubtedly the debut of the Wooster + Lardini collaboration. Held on the amazing terrace of the Pitti Immagine Foundation, the presentation gathered some of the most renowned bloggers, magazines and fashion personalities, all thriving with anticipation to witness first hand what Wooster had in store for them.
After a brief presentation from the Lardini family, expressing their desire to deliver an updated, innovative take on the sartorial universe they are renowned for, Wooster quickly broke the ice with his trademark sense of humor. Blending his creative vision with the quality craftsmanship of the Italian brand, the collection was brought to life in a matter of weeks through a fluid brainstorm of concepts that were brilliantly executed.
Making the most of Lardini’s exceptional tailoring skills and research in manufacturing processes and garment treatments, the collaboration is exactly what one would expect from Wooster’s influence - a rugged, irreverent take on the sartorial universe, slightly hinting at imperfection. From color block and prints, up to tailored shorts and crinkled effects achieved through “unfinished” garment dye techniques, this refreshing approach definitely sets a new standard for Lardini. The subdued color palette of navy, grey, army green and khaki, further reinforces the balance of the classic/modern dichotomy.
Vans “Italian Weave” Pack
If you’re undecided on what to wear with your Missonis, look no further…
Mr. Hare AW14 Pitti Preview
Although the next edition of Pitti draws near, there’s still enough time to check some of last edition’s highlights. One of my mandatory stops at the fair is Mr. Hare: outstanding footwear and an amazing staff just do it for me. It’s always a pleasure talking to Mr. Marc Hare about the latest collection and just embracing his passion as he goes over ever little detail.
Revolving around the iconic trademark black the brand is known for, it’s virtually impossible not to find a pair you instantly fall in love with. Each model exudes sheer luxury, resorting to high-end materials and craftsmanship techniques, to portray a wide selection ranging from sneakers and moccasins to oxfords, brogues, boots and slippers. A perfectly balanced mix of casual and classic, this collection sees some new designs come to life such as the “invisible stitch” oxfords and an array of accessories with contrasting high shine leather accents.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Store Visit: Osklen, Miami
I’ve been keeping a close eye on Osklen since 2007, back when I lived in Florianópolis (Brazil) and had a chance to really get in touch with the brand. Although my personal style has come a long way since then, evolving and adapting to a more mature perspective, all of the pieces I purchased at the time are still present in my wardrobe. As such, I was pleasantly surprised to come across the brand’s Lincoln Road store during my recent stay in Miami.
Founded by Oskar Metsavaht, a gifted creative director working in a myriad of areas such as fashion, design, media and social-environmental projects, the brand carries a distinctive trademark aesthetic and universe which embodies all of the above. As a worldwide renowned patron of ecology and sustainability, Oskar stands at the helm of the “new luxury” movement, focusing on how top tier fashion labels can be run in a sustainable, environmental-friendly way. Osklen is, as expected, a paramount player in this field.
As a matter of fact, it’s a serious player in many others as well, alas without the rightful praise it deserves…In my opinion, Osklen is one of the most underrated luxury labels out there, namely due to a stagnant misperception that associates it solely with beach and surf wear. Although there’s an undeniable influence of its Brazilian roots in each collection, beachwear is but a part of a more complex, luxurious universe. So much so, that in 2011 it was awarded the title of “Emerging Luxury Brand of the Year”.
A closer look at the current SS14 collection, for instance, reveals a wide spectrum of exquisite offerings including suits, blazers, shirts, knitwear and the much sought sneakers and loafers. This would be the minimum requirement for any collection, if it weren’t for the fact that every single piece stands out on its own, be it through design and details or the high-quality fabrics and techniques used in its manufacturing. Garment-dye and prints are applied to 100% natural fibers such as soft “brushed” organic cotton and linen, while unconventional materials such as salmon skin make their way into sneakers…all with outstanding quality. That being said, next time you step into an Osklen store consider carefully browsing the entire collection instead of the swim shorts alone.
Miguel Amaral Vieira
Vans x KIROIC SS14 Collection
Another outstanding collaboration merging Rorschach’s tests with traditional Chinese ink-painting techniques, this limited edition run of 250 pairs is exclusive to China.