#17 - Thom Browne LS BD Flannel Shirt Red Indigo Rugby Stripe
Brand Feature: Agva
A couple of days ago I was contacted by my friend Álvaro, founder of portuguese bespoke menswear brand Agva, to check a few of his recent pieces before he delivered them to clients. Bet on creating unique items according to the client’s specifications, nothing is overlooked during the manufacturing process which takes place entirely in Portugal. Having nothing short of perfection in mind, their offerings range from shirts to full suits and even shoes. The final pieces I had access to included several shirt models and a 2 button blazer with an outstanding attention to detail. Here’s one of my favourites, more to come…
Houndstooth widespread collar shirt with french cuffs and mother of pearl buttons
Boglioli spread collar shirts
When you hear the name “Boglioli” you immediately come up with an image in your mind of exquisitely tailored unstructured sports jackets: indeed, that’s their trademark. However, this often overlooked Italian label cannot, by any means, be summed up by jackets alone. I’ve been following their collections for quite some time now, and truth be told, the amazing craftsmanship, cut and fabrics are carried on to every item they produce.
For me, one of the pieces that definitely deserves some attention is their spread collar shirts, especially those of Spring/Summer collections. Usually made of a blend of cotton and linen, and combining some interesting plays on pattern and color, along with quality details, these make for the perfect Summer shirt: lightweight, breathable and exuding that rugged Italian feel.
All plaid out
Unless you bear any resemblance to Bubble Boy and live in an isolated world of your own, you’re aware that plaid/checked patterns have been the hottest thing this year. From H&M to Hermès, every brand out there is offering some kind of plaid alternative: jackets, suits, pants, shirts, you name it. However, the one that stands out the most is definitely the shirt. Lets face it: this is THE must have item for this Fall/Winter (hell, it was this Summer’s must have as well!). If you’re the least enthusiastic about fashion, like to be somewhat on pair with trends and can only afford one item, the plaid shirt is this years’ obvious choice.
The best thing about it? You won’t need to spend much to get your hands on one, as they’re available everywhere and with different price tags, so you’ll surely find something that fits your wallet. Obviously, quality comes at price and you get what you pay for: usually cheaper versions will be more on the casual side of things whereas dressier alternatives will cost you (there are exceptions tough, many high end labels are selling pricey flannel shirts). I’m a supporter of more subtle patterns and often choose the smaller versions (micro plaid, thin stripes) over large ones, but in this case I’ll make an exception. My only advice is for you to balance the pattern with your body frame: if you’re more on the petit side, avoid large plaids; a bigger frame however, will look off balanced with a micro plaid.
Also, an interesting way to get the most out of your money is to choose a piece that you can wear as an outerwear alternative, the so called over shirt. Heavier fabrics are the way to go here so feel free to go with flannel, thick wools and the likes. If you’re buying a shirt for this purpose, keep in mind that you’ll be wearing at least one other layer underneath it, so it might be a good idea to go one size up (while maintaing a trim fit).
I’ll leave you with a few options to get you going:
Our Legacy 1940’s Dove Blue Check - 130€ @ Our Legacy.
Our Legacy Cowberry Check - 120€ @ Our Legacy.
Adam Kimmel Tie Hold Shirt Green Plaid - 238€ @ Trés Bien Shop.
A.P.C. Flannel Over Shirt Red - 146€ @ Trés Bien Shop.
Zara Flannel Shirt - 29.95€ @ Zara.
Gant Rugger Syracuse Twill Check Shirt - approx 85€ @ Gant.
