Today I get the chance to review what was undoubtedly one of my favourite pieces shown during last Pitti: MAN 1924's interpretation of the Safari Jacket. Originally the go-to choice of British Military stationed in Africa, the Safari Jacket or Sahariana served the purposed of functionality, with added mobility and comfort meeting the perfect fabric weight to withstand lower temperatures during the evening.
Its distinctive features are reminiscent of the military universe: four or more expandable flap pockets, belted waist and epaulettes. The popularity of the Safari Jacket followed the post-war period, when army surplus was easily found and its unique aesthetic and relaxed nature quickly became a favourite within menswear enthusiasts, namely workwear aficionados. However, in recent years, several brands and designers have re-discovered the underlying beauty of the garment, incorporating a variety of updated versions suitable for more casual or polished attires.
This version from MAN 1924 is the perfect example. Featuring a beautiful army green herringbone cotton/linen fabric, the perfect looser fit makes it a layering essential both for summer days or the upcoming transitional season. Generous pockets allow to carry all everyday essentials, the adjustable waist belt provides a flattering silhouette even when worn unbuttoned and the small details such as horn buttons and epaulettes just add that extra bit of flare. Here I went for a more casual approach, layering it over a houndstooth vest, spread collar shirt and paisley scarf, along with white denim and loafers. Although this look might translate the core essence of the jacket, I cant wait to pair it with more formal attires.
Details: Sahariana by MAN 1924, houndstooth vest by Purificacion Garcia, MTM spread collar shirt, white denim and paisley scarf by Massimo Dutti, grained leather penny loafers by Bexley, aviators by Ray-Ban, vintage bracelets.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
Engineered Garments SS15
Daiki Suzuki delivers another outstanding collection: a perfect materialization of the vintage-inspired aesthetic Engineered Garments has been known for. Mixing elements of British military stationed in India with a somewhat preppy influence, the result is an incredible mix of pattern and texture, spread throughout reinvented classics.
MAN 1924 SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, the outstanding label run by my friends Carlos, Jorge and Olga needs little to no introduction. From Spain to the world, they have been able to set MAN 1924 as a menswear reference for good taste and classic tailoring with a twist. Meeting with them and going over their creations is always pleasure: besides the amazing garments, they present what is arguably the best styling and layering at Pitti.
The perfectly balanced mix of casual and polished elements, brilliant pattern and texture combinations and superb use of accessories, results in an eye-catching collection that appeals to most. To top it off, a brief conversation is enough to understand their passion and the authenticity poured into each creation, as they embody this very personal style and philosophy reminiscent of the Spanish tradition.
For SS15, the collection delivers a classic color palette focused on pastels, with the occasional navy and blue adding some contrast. Linen and lightweight cottons are abundant, as are special waxed and washed finishings spread throughout blazers, parkas and safari jackets. Their interpretation of the safari, featuring a super soft washed cotton fabric and details such as epaulets, belt and deep pockets was probably one of my favourite pieces on display at the fair.
Massimo Dutti June Lookbook
Suitsupply Jort “Urban Safari” Collection
In case you missed it, here’s the first entry in Beyond Fabric’s short movie series. Shot in my beachside hometown of Figueira da Foz.
Mackintosh debuts its first full-on menswear collection for SS14. A Japan exclusive, Mackintosh Philosophy delivers some pretty solid offerings inspired by an old school British aesthetic with some preppy elements in the mix.
100% Capri @ Bal Harbour
A few days ago I got a chance to visit the luxurious, exquisitely curated Bal Harbour in Miami. Simply put, this shopping Mecca carries one of the most outstanding selection of luxury stores and restaurants I’ve seen to date, set to establish a paramount standard of uniqueness. Within the array of refined labels such as Kiton, Canali, Cucinelli or Loro Piana, there was one in particular that caught my attention: 100% Capri.
Created by Antonino Aiello, the label turns its focus towards one of the most ancient and noble fabrics - linen. Drawing inspiration from the colors, designs and lifestyle of the homonymous Italian island, the label presents a superb collection of breathable, fitted garments perfectly complemented by shoes and accessories. As an unconditional fan of linen, I was overwhelmed by the sheer beauty and airy, comfortable feel of each garment, which transpire high-end quality and attention to detail.
Unstructured blazers exude a trademark nonchalance with beautiful draping, trousers and shorts have just the right proportions and what to say about the shirts? Outstanding masterpieces such as the tuxedo shirt, or the removable spread collar shirt embellished with small linen diamonds on the front, are truly unique. Featuring light shades such as white, beige and khaki, the color accents are mostly given by the wide range of accessories including suede loafers and slippers, braided belts, scarfs, pocket squares and of course, the outstanding panama hats.
To top it off, the space created by Giachi Architettura e Design is in itself amazing, materializing the collection’s universe and feel through a modern, sophisticated style conveyed by a neutral color palette and use of wooden and leather details throughout. Like the collection, it feels lightweight and appealing while featuring an outstanding use of light, flowers and water to portray a natural ambience. Looking forward to visiting their Firenze store during next Pitti!
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Mark McNairy SS14 Collection Preview