Oak Street Bootmakers AW14 Preview
A small glimpse at two upcoming models from the American label: a most welcome derby in their trademark Horween Chromexcel and a Vibram soled chukka available in rough-out suede or leather.
Man 1924 AW14 Pitti Preview
Apart from a few exceptions, most of the brands I look forward to seeing at Pitti host their collections on the venue’s secondary pavilions. Within that small universe, MAN 1924 just happens to present some of the strongest arguments to lure me to the main building…
Simply put, Carlos Castillo’s label consistently delivers outstanding garments, set in a tailoring history and tradition while blending everything with a dash of its bold Spanish heritage. You know what you’re in for: luxurious fabrics, high-end craftsmanship and tailored pieces suitable for the everyday wardrobe of modern men, all perfectly styled through a mix of patterns, textures and accessories. In way, it feels almost comforting stepping into a stand where you know that virtually any garment has the potential to be incorporated into your style, achieving the perfect balance between classic and modern.
I believe it’s this balanced nature that makes it so appealing, to the point where I find myself sharing the stand with some of the most interesting personalities around, be it team Armoury or GQ’s Justin Doss and Jim Moore. A reflection of Mr. Castillo’s personal style, the collection presented a curated selection of polished suiting options and topcoats, along with more casual parkas, macs, blazers and as usual, beautiful foulards.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Buttero AW14 Pitti Preview
Another visit to the Buttero stand was enough to remind me just why I love these guys so much…and also to start putting some savings aside. This time around I had the honor of meeting the head of the family, the godfather himself: Mr. Mauro Sani, founder of Buttero and father of the current generation running the business (Luca, Massimiliano and Claudio). I was also fortunate to bump into my friends from Por Vocação, who helped set the stand, which besides a massive wooden rocking-horse, featured small windows into Tuscan landscapes, working as miniature showrooms for each model.
A refreshing array of new models filled the stand, including two-toned brogues mixing contrasting elements such as leather and suede, as well as new sneakers, derbies and boots, always with that trademark Buttero feel. Old favourites such as the low and hi-top Taninos are back in new colorways and materials, namely a uniquely finished suede, while paraboots were an inspiration for some of the beautiful, bulkier lasts.
Norwegian Rain + T-Michael AW14 Pitti Preview
It’s only fitting that the first entry on the upcoming series of collection previews, features one of the most impressive shown at the venue: Norwegian Rain. This time around the Bergen-based label showcased its outstanding creations alongside those of bespoke tailor T-Michael, one half of NR. Simply put, not only are these guys some of the nicest and most stylish individuals around, they’re also delivering one of the most unique concepts in the current menswear scene.
Within the superb ambience created for visitors, one could find exclusive installations and items evoking their universe of collaborations, as well as the core outerwear pieces from the upcoming line. Along with new colorways, fabrics and textures on trademark pieces, the biggest reveal were the new models on the “Arctic Line” which features shearling collars and linings, that utterly transform the lightweight parkas into full-geared versions able to withstand up to -20ºC. Besides the obvious aesthetic element this brings to the table, it also conveys a more versatile approach to the originals, allowing several combinations that ultimately make the most of your investment.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Gant by Michael Bastian Pre Spring 2014 Lookbook
Levi’s Made & Crafted SS14 Pitti Preview
Although coming across new brands and getting in touch with the latest developments is definitely exciting, the warm, welcoming feeling of reuniting with an old time classic is special in its own way. For me, no matter how many alternatives fill the market, Levi’s will forever remain the ultimate choice for time-tested, long-lasting denim. Its premium Made & Crafted line is a reminder that the iconic label is not only here to stay, but also dealing cards when it comes to delivering refreshing and updated takes on classics.
Eleventy SS14 Pitti Preview
After following Mr. Baldassari’s label for quite some time, I must say expectations were high for Eleventy’s upcoming collection: thankfully, they were not only met, but actually surpassed. Presenting a well balanced collection, Eleventy once again managed to deliver all-round pieces, perfect for polished everyday attires, with a unique panache. I guess the most appealing element for me is its core “casual meets sophisticated” essence, a trademark element that makes it easy for you to resonate with particular pieces, no matter which style you favor the most.
This time around, everything revolved around lightweight, comfortable fabrics, able to adjust to different body shapes. Tailored sports coats, hoodies and gilets mixed with washed jeans and chinos, exuded a contemporary urban feel achieved through unique layering; supple perforated suede bomber jackets made for perfect outerwear alternatives, while a wide range of accessories and shoes complemented the whole offering.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Passionate about the universe of tailoring, the Armoury presents a small preview of “Antonio’s Colours” - a documentary on renowned tailor Antonio Liverano, depicting his everyday life, background, influences and unmeasurable talent.
MAN 1924 SS14 Pitti Preview
Mr. Carlos Castillo’s label has been gaining momentum and well deserved attention for some time now. MAN 1924 embodies Mr. Castillo’s impeccable sense of style, perfectly blending sartorial tradition with a casual effortlessness, all while maintaining a charismatic aesthetic. A perfect use of seasonal fabrics such as lightweight cotton, tropical wool, linen and seersucker helps bring this vision to life, being used in unstructured sports coats, safari jackets and summery shirts.
This balanced fusion between polished and relaxed, portrayed in Mr. Castillo’s own attires (I remember bumping into him and his cousin Jorge while going out for dinner: linen shirt, foulard, cotton cargos, brogues), is part of what makes the brand so appealing and unique. You can find everything from a morning coat or tailored suits, up to everyday alternatives with a trademark panache. A happy coincidence that during my visit to stand, team Armoury was already checking the upcoming collection…