Buttero SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, Buttero needs no introduction… universally praised as one the best sneaker manufacturers around, the Tuscan-based family brand has elevated its models to new standards. As one of their biggest fans and supporters, I’m constantly showcasing their other footwear alternatives, namely boat shoes, loafers, derbies and the exclusive boots dating back to the brand’s origins.
Celebrating its 40th anniversary, the SS15 collection places a heavy bet on more casual models, including a variety of sneakers, slip-ons and sandals, without forgetting some more classic alternatives. Making use of some of the best vegetable tanned leather and suede out there, the result is an amazing mix of materials in both subtle and bright shades, along with beautiful craftsmanship as seen in the braided leather versions. New additions include a lightweight construction making use of cork-based soles with vibram layering. Their AW14 collection is now online at the official website.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
1ST PAT-RN SS15 Pitti Preview
Visiting Silvia, Alessio and Cris has become a regular entry on my agenda ever since I came across 1ST PAT-RN. As a fan and proud owner of 3 of their jackets, it’s always a pleasure to check in and discuss new developments and designs. The unique military inspired aesthetic along with an exclusive “cavalry di maglia” fabric, allows for a tailored yet comfortable look: fully unstructured with no lining, the knitted fabric adjusts to the body and regains its shape after each wash.
For SS15, the major change comes through the addition of bottom pieces such as the indigo selvedge denim and knitted shorts. Also, next season sees a new fabric development come to life: the “gabardina a maglia”, a sort of gabardine twill that provides the first woven approach to 1ST PAT-RN models. Besides the essential single and double breasted jackets, new worker jackets made the cut in beautiful camel and indigo shades.
MAN 1924 SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, the outstanding label run by my friends Carlos, Jorge and Olga needs little to no introduction. From Spain to the world, they have been able to set MAN 1924 as a menswear reference for good taste and classic tailoring with a twist. Meeting with them and going over their creations is always pleasure: besides the amazing garments, they present what is arguably the best styling and layering at Pitti.
The perfectly balanced mix of casual and polished elements, brilliant pattern and texture combinations and superb use of accessories, results in an eye-catching collection that appeals to most. To top it off, a brief conversation is enough to understand their passion and the authenticity poured into each creation, as they embody this very personal style and philosophy reminiscent of the Spanish tradition.
For SS15, the collection delivers a classic color palette focused on pastels, with the occasional navy and blue adding some contrast. Linen and lightweight cottons are abundant, as are special waxed and washed finishings spread throughout blazers, parkas and safari jackets. Their interpretation of the safari, featuring a super soft washed cotton fabric and details such as epaulets, belt and deep pockets was probably one of my favourite pieces on display at the fair.
Sciamàt SS15 Pitti Preview
On the brink of sartorial perfection…that’s my interpretation of Nicola and Valentino Ricci’s creations. The only real reason I don’t call them embodied perfection, is due to my inherent way of being that compels me to believe that there’s always room for improvement, however little it may be. The truth is that apart from slight taste subtleties, that might lead you to question whether those outstanding peak lapels should be 1cm narrower or wider, or what particular color stripe you wished to see in that windowpane fabric, there’s really nothing else you can beg to differ when it comes to Sciamàt.
Showcasing a fully handmade ready-to-wear line, the cut, fit and proportion were spot on. From the impeccable artisanal construction and true attention to the slightest detail, up to the choice of fabrics and color palette, each garment on display rightfully deserved a place in every sartorial aficionado’s wardrobe (myself very much included). When you consider that besides these offerings they are able to provide you with some of the finest bespoke creations out there, there’s not much more you could ask for..
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Mr. Hare AW14 Pitti Preview
Although the next edition of Pitti draws near, there’s still enough time to check some of last edition’s highlights. One of my mandatory stops at the fair is Mr. Hare: outstanding footwear and an amazing staff just do it for me. It’s always a pleasure talking to Mr. Marc Hare about the latest collection and just embracing his passion as he goes over ever little detail.
Revolving around the iconic trademark black the brand is known for, it’s virtually impossible not to find a pair you instantly fall in love with. Each model exudes sheer luxury, resorting to high-end materials and craftsmanship techniques, to portray a wide selection ranging from sneakers and moccasins to oxfords, brogues, boots and slippers. A perfectly balanced mix of casual and classic, this collection sees some new designs come to life such as the “invisible stitch” oxfords and an array of accessories with contrasting high shine leather accents.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Camoshita United Arrows AW14 Pitti Preview
Yasuto Kamoshita is, simply put, one of the most stylish individuals around. With a background in architecture and a refined aesthetic sense, heavily influenced by the strong Ivy League movement lived in Japan during the 1960s, his creations embody a modern Japanese dandyism. As creative director of United Arrows, this unique blend of Japanese and American styles results in outstanding collections, marked by beautifully tailored garments and exquisite use of fabrics, patterns and textures.
The AW14 collection maintains the line of thought, delivering a modern take on classic essentials through small tweaks and attention to detail. While the Ivy League and European tailoring references are still at its core, the Japanese will to evolve and elevate things to a new level is visible in each piece. An extensive (and for some, unusual) color palette is paired with a variety of textures, print and patterns, portraying classic elegance with unique panache: bold stripes, diamonds and polka dots come to life in topcoats, suits, blazers and shirts, adding a refreshing twist on these menswear essentials. All perfectly complemented by an array of luxurious accessories such as the paisley silk scarfs of which I’m an unconditional fan.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
CAMO AW14 Pitti Preview
Inspired by the city lights, Stefano Ughetti managed to deliver yet another impressive collection, marked by the influence of urban colors on both new and trademark models. A strong emphasis was given to knitwear, presented in a variety of patterns, textures and shades, while making the best of luxurious fabrics and construction. A shout out to the beautiful speckled effects which embody the sight of an urban environment by night.
Suiting is always one of the most appealing offerings from the Italian label, which manages to deliver a tailored take on casual models through its fitted blazers and low crotch trousers: this time around, beautiful tweed and heavy wool was used to portray a unique wintery feel.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Oak Street Bootmakers AW14 Preview
A small glimpse at two upcoming models from the American label: a most welcome derby in their trademark Horween Chromexcel and a Vibram soled chukka available in rough-out suede or leather.