Store Visit: Osklen, Miami
I’ve been keeping a close eye on Osklen since 2007, back when I lived in Florianópolis (Brazil) and had a chance to really get in touch with the brand. Although my personal style has come a long way since then, evolving and adapting to a more mature perspective, all of the pieces I purchased at the time are still present in my wardrobe. As such, I was pleasantly surprised to come across the brand’s Lincoln Road store during my recent stay in Miami.
Founded by Oskar Metsavaht, a gifted creative director working in a myriad of areas such as fashion, design, media and social-environmental projects, the brand carries a distinctive trademark aesthetic and universe which embodies all of the above. As a worldwide renowned patron of ecology and sustainability, Oskar stands at the helm of the “new luxury” movement, focusing on how top tier fashion labels can be run in a sustainable, environmental-friendly way. Osklen is, as expected, a paramount player in this field.
As a matter of fact, it’s a serious player in many others as well, alas without the rightful praise it deserves…In my opinion, Osklen is one of the most underrated luxury labels out there, namely due to a stagnant misperception that associates it solely with beach and surf wear. Although there’s an undeniable influence of its Brazilian roots in each collection, beachwear is but a part of a more complex, luxurious universe. So much so, that in 2011 it was awarded the title of “Emerging Luxury Brand of the Year”.
A closer look at the current SS14 collection, for instance, reveals a wide spectrum of exquisite offerings including suits, blazers, shirts, knitwear and the much sought sneakers and loafers. This would be the minimum requirement for any collection, if it weren’t for the fact that every single piece stands out on its own, be it through design and details or the high-quality fabrics and techniques used in its manufacturing. Garment-dye and prints are applied to 100% natural fibers such as soft “brushed” organic cotton and linen, while unconventional materials such as salmon skin make their way into sneakers…all with outstanding quality. That being said, next time you step into an Osklen store consider carefully browsing the entire collection instead of the swim shorts alone.
Miguel Amaral Vieira
The White Briefs AW14 Pitti Preview
If I was asked to point out the best “revelation” of Pitti’s latest edition, I would probably have to say The White Briefs. While the brand’s been around for some time now, this was actually my first visit to its stand and I must say I was nothing short of impressed.
I believe a structured wardrobe is cemented on quality basics, a selection you keep on rotating all year round and that perfectly blends with most of your attires. These basics fall into several garment categories and don’t necessarily need to be boring or uninteresting: the thing is, quality essentials are hard to find…
As such, when browsing through The White Brief’s upcoming collection I was feeling ecstatic. A solid selection of quality basics, set on the values of exquisite fabrics, craftsmanship, comfort and a hint of sustainability through the sole use of organic cotton, made for some of the most impressive garments around. The khaki cotton kimono and navy contrasting sweatpants are already on my wishlist.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
A flowering trend…
Although I’ve mentioned florals before, I still hadn’t had the chance to fully address this much hyped pattern. Every other day, some new garment or accessory makes its way into the spotlight simply by sporting this nature inspired print. The sheer fact that its popularity is growing, while struggling with social, cultural and gender-based ill-formed preconceptions, is not only proof that men are more conscious about their style but that this pattern is a resilient one. As with all bold prints, the chances of getting it wrong are proportional to the risks you’re willing to take.
Whereas concepts such as scale, fit, proportion and color matching should be ever present on your attire, when going for more ambitious combinations they become a necessity. For me, the most crucial aspect to successfully pull it off is coordinating the scale of the pattern with that of the item itself, bearing in mind that larger items are harder to work with. When in doubt start by incorporating small notes such as scarves, pocket squares or ties and slowly work your way up the chain.
This shirt by Paul Smith was the result of an impulsive purchase a few years back, which remained stored away in my wardrobe for quite a while…now, it’s one of my Summer statement pieces. Besides the outstanding color scheme, I love its versatility which allows for interesting casual looks as well as adding a twist to more classic ones. Here I went for a relaxed, put together look aimed at toning things down by making use of pieces in complementing solid colors.
Organic cotton floral print dress shirt by Paul Smith, purple organic cotton crewneck tee by H&M, slate creased trousers by Boglioli, brown crepe sole boat shoes by Buttero, watch by Gucci, silver string by Goti (hidden).