Thom Browne embraces the classics for Fall 2014
Set to debut in a year’s time and entitled Thom Browne New York, the new line from the renowned designer delivers a more classic approach to his trademark aesthetic. Focused on increasing wearability while portraying a contemporary feel, jackets and pants are given new lengths, maintaining the brand’s unique identity and personality. All made exclusively in U.S., as expected.
Update a classic: Grey slacks
We often see the term “classic” widely used when describing an array of garments. Usually, it seems to translate an idea of timeless pieces, staples of menswear, who have been and will be around for ages. Several items come to mind, but few bear this stamp in such a deserving way as any suit related garment.
Although the suit is king when it comes to classics, grey slacks follow closely. This is the go to piece when men want to look put together without sporting a full suit, or just want to try out different ensembles with their suit jackets. What makes them so amazing, is the fact they perfectly combine elegance and versatility: you can dress them up or down and its neutral color makes them easy to pair with all sort of tones: navy, black, brown, pink, green, grey…
The first picture that comes to most people’s minds when talking about grey slacks is probably of loose pleated flannel pants. In fact, if you take a look at vintage pics or pay close attention to older men on the street, you might find that image is not far from the truth. However, the ever evolving nature of fashion has redefined this item: nowadays you’ll find several slim fitting alternatives, with flat front instead of pleats, giving them an updated feel.
No matter where you get yours from, be sure to have them tailored to ensure little to no break, as it will make you look taller and draw attention on your shoes (just be sure to have them perfectly buffed). I’ve got a couple myself, which I had made at Gentleman according to my liking:
- 100% wool
- Slim leg
- 19 cm ankle opening
- 3,5 cm cuff
- little to no break
I had mine cuffed as I prefer the way they drape along the leg and the overall aesthetic.
This is something I wore the other day, really like how all the different shades and textures of grey come together to create a polished look. The cap was more of a necessity as it was freezing, but it added a nice relaxed and urban feel to the look.
Grey herringbone 2 button blazer by Gentleman Tailors, grey wool v-neck pullover by Paul Smith, blue micro plaid shirt by Gap, charcoal wool slacks by Gentleman Tailors, brown tasseled loafers by Lottusse, cap by H&M, vintage bowtie, paisley pocket square by Tie Rack, socks by Ralph Lauren and watch by Rolex.
Sock it up
As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, this year has seen a growing acceptance of the no socks-no break look.
Everywhere you look, people have been wearing rolled up jeans/chinos or cuffed suit pants well above the ankle line, showing off their bare skin and military shined footwear. Until a while back, when temperatures were high, it seemed like the perfect look to pull off…However, as the cold winter days are upon us, one will certainly feel the need to protect his exposed ankles from the freezing wind and rain (I for one, do).
So, if like me, you’re struggling to conciliate both ensemble and comfort, you know there’s no way around it: your socks will be out there for the world to see. As such, you might consider investing in a fine collection of assorted socks.
When doing so, you should keep in mind that depending on color, texture, fabric and pattern, socks may bear different levels of formality and suitability to outfits. Even in a time when the matching rules of old no longer apply, this is something than can make or break a look.
If you’re going for a more formal attire, stick to thin cotton socks in classic solid colors such as charcoal, navy, black, etc. Other than that, why not have some fun? Consider them a part of your overall look, one you can tweak and incorporate accordingly, either by pairing with other items or making it pop out.
Navy heavy knit cardigan by Massimo Dutti, hunter green oxford button down by Ralph Lauren, jeans by Levi’s (511 Slim), brown tasseled loafers by Lottusse, tartan scarf by Ralph Lauren, argyle socks by H&M and watch by Rolex.
Interesting alternatives are not always easy to find, but here are a few to get you going:
Ralph Lauren (Photos from Asos)