CAMO Double Breasted Blazer
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CAMO Double Breasted Blazer

Source: shop.camofactory.com

Deluxe x Vans Era 10th Anniversary 
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Deluxe x Vans Era 10th Anniversary 

Unusual length…
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Unusual length…

Source: beyondfabric

Simplicity at its best
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Simplicity at its best

Source: beyondfabric

Introducing: Atelier de l’Armée

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Apart from mindblowing creations shown on fashion week runways, getting in touch with unique brands and concepts who deliver something out of the box you can actually wear (and purchase), is getting harder each passing day. Plus, with the amount of clothing and accessories production increasing on a daily basis there’s no getting around the waste from exceeding stocks or wardrobe purges; so, when I came across Atelier de L’Armée I couldn’t help to be absolutely blown away.

If there’s one thing I believe defines my style is eclectic: I’m as passionate by the craftsmanship and art of tailoring as I am for scouting one of a kind vintage pieces in thrift stores or flea markets. So suddenly, here I am before an atelier that merges craftsmanship, vintage materials and the exclusivity/uniqueness of bespoke…on top of that, they have one of the best curated selections of vintage garments I’ve seen.
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After going through their website and placing an order for a 1974 belgian paratrooper jacket and a pair of dutch airlines pants (more on that later), I lost track of time browsing through a neverending list of unique, numbered bags handcrafted with vintage army deadstock such as tents, jackets, pants, linings, denim and rifle handles. I got a chance to talk to Elza & Joost, the minds behind this amazing brand…

Q: Tell us a bit about yourselves and how you came up with this concept?
A: We are partners in life, Elza Wandler & Joost Doeswijk and we started Atelier de l’Armée 1,5 years ago. Having years of experience in the denim industry we wanted to create our own world. We both have a passion for heritage clothing and materials that can create or already have a history. This doesn’t mean that we aim to be environment friendly: it justs happens to be this way for now. We thought of a concept where we do what we love, which is to create an environment where beautiful items come together. Even if we use a lot of old materials, we always try to make products that fit modern society.  

Q: Although I’m constantly running into new brands, few have managed to create such an impact as yours. You are able to merge exclusivity, vintage, craftsmanship, aesthetic and recycling into unique items; was this empathy with customers something you were looking for?
A: Thank you for your compliment!! Of course we hope that our customers share the same passion for our products. All our products are created with great care for detailing and with a lot of love. It is a great compliment if other people like your products and wear them.

Q: Why did you decided to go for army stock, any particular reason? 
A: Military fabrics are great. For the reason that the quality of these materials is stunning, “they don’t make’m like that anymore”. They are durable, have aged beautifully over time, most of them have stains, repairs, stamps wear etc.. a look that can never be achieved by nowadays washings. But we also love to work with denims, or beautiful leathers. In general we can say we have an passion for durable and well made materials.  

Q: Are you sticking to army items or thinking about including others such as navy, special forces, etc?
A:We use any material we can get our hands on, as long as it is beautiful. We have used Airforce bags, US mailbags, Navy bags, Army tents, Sailing boat bags and a lot of deastock fabrics like; chambray, denims and leathers materials.

Q: Where do you get your stock from? 
A: Anywhere we can. From local flee markets, to ebay. We always have our eyes open for materials. Even when visiting family. The other day we found that my uncle had been in the royal dutch navy and he gave us his complete personal kit! Of course we have built up a network of connections and addresses which we visit from time to time to restock. There is a warehouse in the Netherlands with a stock of 4x4x4 metres(!) completely filled with duffel bags. Absolutely sick. 
For the future, we will probably be looking at other resources as well, like bigger quantity leftovers of durable materials. 

Q: Each of your bags and accessories are numbered; although the model itself maybe replicated, is every bag truly one of a kind due to the parts used?
A: We currently have 9 different bag models which will always be the same, it is the materials that make the bag one of a kind. 
To give you a few examples :
-  We currently stock over 500 military leather rifle sling handles which are all used and show different shades of brown. It is already hard to find two similar colors;
-  The military duffel bags used to be part of the soldiers unit kit. These bags are very personal with writings, stamps and all have different signs of wear, repairs and color shading;
-  We work with left over / deadstock leathers with scratches, burn marks and other irregularities. These skins are always one-off;
-  The new deadstock japanese selvage denims we use can be reproduced, but we always mix them with old materials.

Q: What are your future plans for Atelier de l’Armée?
A: Our concept can be amended on anything, from apparel to lifestyle. In general we want to expand our Atelier de l’Armée world. We have loads of plans. The problem is, as always, time and money.
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Source: beyondfabric

1st PAT-RN

Based on a philosophy of reinterpreting “army, navy and civil” garments, Cristiano Berto brings us a unique AW13 collection revolving around a common key element: the blazer. Inspired by the original knitted cavalry fabric, these polished wool garments present clean lines and aesthetic all wrapped with a sartorial feel…

Lightweight and warm, the knitted wool blazers draw inspiration from the original versions worn by the staff of the H.M.S. Frigate back in 1837, but also from World War I and the Ivy League universe… A refreshing array of beautifully made garments that’s definitely worth keeping an eye out for.

Source: beyondfabric

SS12 Blues

Much has been said about Spring blues, as distinct garments in different shades of this iconic menswear staple continue to drop from all sorts of labels. From the timeless navy to the season’s pale and baby blues, this is an invaluable option to consider for your Summery wardrobe. Inspired by some recent purchases, namely the shirt and chinos, I decided to put together a monochromatic attire to honor it. Pulling off unique a color from head to toe definitely poses a challenge and requires some pattern, texture and hue matching skills. However, if done right, the result is a strikingly polished look few others can outmatch…

Details: unlined cotton/silk peak lapel blazer by Adam Kimmel, striped widespread collar shirt by Millerighe, pale blue cotton chinos by Zara, navy suede penny loafers by Buttero, silk knit polka dot tie by Carolina Herrera, ribbon belt by Purificacion Garcia, tie bar by The Tie Rack, bracelet by street vendor and vintage chronograph by Citizen.

Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira

Photography: Rita Lino

Source: beyondfabric

The navy backpack… free-man: Southern Field Industries
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The navy backpack…

free-man:

Southern Field Industries

(via iqfashion)

Source: free-man

The Peacoat

As those cold winter days are upon us, a simple sports coat may not be enough to provide you with the warmth you long for…

It’s that time of the year when everyone is geared up in their winter outfits, covered head to toe, striving for a comfortable feel. Without wanting to take credit from all the useful winter accessories such as thermals, scarves or gloves, I do believe that the most crucial item in your wardrobe, come winter time, is the coat. This is the ultimate barrier between your shivering body and nature’s harsh elements - you don’t want to be caught off guard by freezing cold wind while wearing lousy outerwear…

Among all the existing and fashion endorsed alternatives for the season (toggle coats, quilted jackets, chesterfields, etc.), I’ve got to admit I have a thing for the Peacoat. A coat that keeps you warm in the worst climates while evoking a Corto Maltese aura? Count me in…

Originally sported by 19th century european sailors, this navy statement piece owes its name to the type of fabric used, the “pijjeker”, which later evolved to p-cloth and ultimately to p-coat. Made from thick heavy wools, peacoats are easily identified by the following traits:

  • Wide lapels;
  • Double breasted cut;
  • Large buttons (metallic, plastic or wooden), usually sporting a naval motif;
  • Large flap pockets;

The traditional colors are navy or black, although variations of color and design have been emerging in several collections, from high end designers to H&M or Zara. Also, if you favour authenticity, you might want to check thrift stores or other who stock navy surplus, for the real deal. 

One of the things I like most about it (besides the robust construction), is how great it looks and adapts to different outfits, whether you dress it up or down: the gap between lapels is just enough for your tie and button down oxford to pop out, perfectly framed. Moreover, this is one of the few pieces which not only allows you to pull off the popped collar look, but is actually taken to a whole new level once you do.

Here are some pics of me and my brother sporting our own vintage Peacoats. Remember the Portuguese boots? Check out my brother’s and how different they look from mine…

  

Vintage Peacoat, navy dress shirt by Moschino, burgundy pullover by DKNY, white jeans by Massimo Dutti, belt and gloves by Casa das Peles, socks by Gant and brogues by Henry James.

Vintage Peacoat, chambray shirt by Massimo Dutti, grey cardigan by Lyle & Scott, jeans by Levi’s (511 slim), vintage belt and traditional Portuguese boots (Bota Carneira)