Introducing: Atelier de l’Armée
Apart from mindblowing creations shown on fashion week runways, getting in touch with unique brands and concepts who deliver something out of the box you can actually wear (and purchase), is getting harder each passing day. Plus, with the amount of clothing and accessories production increasing on a daily basis there’s no getting around the waste from exceeding stocks or wardrobe purges; so, when I came across Atelier de L’Armée I couldn’t help to be absolutely blown away.
After going through their website and placing an order for a 1974 belgian paratrooper jacket and a pair of dutch airlines pants (more on that later), I lost track of time browsing through a neverending list of unique, numbered bags handcrafted with vintage army deadstock such as tents, jackets, pants, linings, denim and rifle handles. I got a chance to talk to Elza & Joost, the minds behind this amazing brand…
Based on a philosophy of reinterpreting “army, navy and civil” garments, Cristiano Berto brings us a unique AW13 collection revolving around a common key element: the blazer. Inspired by the original knitted cavalry fabric, these polished wool garments present clean lines and aesthetic all wrapped with a sartorial feel…
Lightweight and warm, the knitted wool blazers draw inspiration from the original versions worn by the staff of the H.M.S. Frigate back in 1837, but also from World War I and the Ivy League universe… A refreshing array of beautifully made garments that’s definitely worth keeping an eye out for.
Much has been said about Spring blues, as distinct garments in different shades of this iconic menswear staple continue to drop from all sorts of labels. From the timeless navy to the season’s pale and baby blues, this is an invaluable option to consider for your Summery wardrobe. Inspired by some recent purchases, namely the shirt and chinos, I decided to put together a monochromatic attire to honor it. Pulling off unique a color from head to toe definitely poses a challenge and requires some pattern, texture and hue matching skills. However, if done right, the result is a strikingly polished look few others can outmatch…
Details: unlined cotton/silk peak lapel blazer by Adam Kimmel, striped widespread collar shirt by Millerighe, pale blue cotton chinos by Zara, navy suede penny loafers by Buttero, silk knit polka dot tie by Carolina Herrera, ribbon belt by Purificacion Garcia, tie bar by The Tie Rack, bracelet by street vendor and vintage chronograph by Citizen.
Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira
Photography: Rita Lino
As those cold winter days are upon us, a simple sports coat may not be enough to provide you with the warmth you long for…
It’s that time of the year when everyone is geared up in their winter outfits, covered head to toe, striving for a comfortable feel. Without wanting to take credit from all the useful winter accessories such as thermals, scarves or gloves, I do believe that the most crucial item in your wardrobe, come winter time, is the coat. This is the ultimate barrier between your shivering body and nature’s harsh elements - you don’t want to be caught off guard by freezing cold wind while wearing lousy outerwear…
Among all the existing and fashion endorsed alternatives for the season (toggle coats, quilted jackets, chesterfields, etc.), I’ve got to admit I have a thing for the Peacoat. A coat that keeps you warm in the worst climates while evoking a Corto Maltese aura? Count me in…
Originally sported by 19th century european sailors, this navy statement piece owes its name to the type of fabric used, the “pijjeker”, which later evolved to p-cloth and ultimately to p-coat. Made from thick heavy wools, peacoats are easily identified by the following traits:
- Wide lapels;
- Double breasted cut;
- Large buttons (metallic, plastic or wooden), usually sporting a naval motif;
- Large flap pockets;
The traditional colors are navy or black, although variations of color and design have been emerging in several collections, from high end designers to H&M or Zara. Also, if you favour authenticity, you might want to check thrift stores or other who stock navy surplus, for the real deal.
One of the things I like most about it (besides the robust construction), is how great it looks and adapts to different outfits, whether you dress it up or down: the gap between lapels is just enough for your tie and button down oxford to pop out, perfectly framed. Moreover, this is one of the few pieces which not only allows you to pull off the popped collar look, but is actually taken to a whole new level once you do.
Here are some pics of me and my brother sporting our own vintage Peacoats. Remember the Portuguese boots? Check out my brother’s and how different they look from mine…
Vintage Peacoat, navy dress shirt by Moschino, burgundy pullover by DKNY, white jeans by Massimo Dutti, belt and gloves by Casa das Peles, socks by Gant and brogues by Henry James.
Vintage Peacoat, chambray shirt by Massimo Dutti, grey cardigan by Lyle & Scott, jeans by Levi’s (511 slim), vintage belt and traditional Portuguese boots (Bota Carneira)