1ST PAT-RN SS15 Pitti Preview
Visiting Silvia, Alessio and Cris has become a regular entry on my agenda ever since I came across 1ST PAT-RN. As a fan and proud owner of 3 of their jackets, it’s always a pleasure to check in and discuss new developments and designs. The unique military inspired aesthetic along with an exclusive “cavalry di maglia” fabric, allows for a tailored yet comfortable look: fully unstructured with no lining, the knitted fabric adjusts to the body and regains its shape after each wash.
For SS15, the major change comes through the addition of bottom pieces such as the indigo selvedge denim and knitted shorts. Also, next season sees a new fabric development come to life: the “gabardina a maglia”, a sort of gabardine twill that provides the first woven approach to 1ST PAT-RN models. Besides the essential single and double breasted jackets, new worker jackets made the cut in beautiful camel and indigo shades.
Engineered Garments SS15
Daiki Suzuki delivers another outstanding collection: a perfect materialization of the vintage-inspired aesthetic Engineered Garments has been known for. Mixing elements of British military stationed in India with a somewhat preppy influence, the result is an incredible mix of pattern and texture, spread throughout reinvented classics.
1st PAT-RN SS14 Pitti Preview
Inspired by a 1940s picture depicting the Italian Army’s presence in Northern Africa, designer Cristiano Berto along with his brother Alessio presented yet another outstanding collection. Reinterpreting the original color palette consisting of ice-white, blue-gray and khaki, while introducing a new interior construction technique making use of lightweight raw jersey, they were able to elevate their trademark soft knit tailored jackets to a new level of sophistication.
The quality and authenticity in each of these is garments is paramount, merging a unique design method and attention to detail that surpasses the mere “replicated” feel one could expect from vintage-inspired pieces. The ability to apply tailoring techniques to these special knitted fabrics is being refined from one season to the next, making each collection a new hallmark in the life of this amazing brand.
Ph: Beyond Fabric @ Pitti Uomo
Now that Pitti is one week away, the thought of reuniting with friends and all those outstanding brands is simply amazing. Among the unique labels showing at each of the pavillions, some are definitely becoming a priority on my route. As such, I thought it would be interesting to share with all of you which ones I’m looking forward to visit the most…
In no particular order, the first up is 1ST PAT-RN. Having my good friend Cristiano Berto and his brother Alessio (tailor extraordinaire) as mentors, these military inspired garments are truly one of a kind. To give you a small glimpse of what to expect, here are some scans from its SS13 lookbook.
Based on a philosophy of reinterpreting “army, navy and civil” garments, Cristiano Berto brings us a unique AW13 collection revolving around a common key element: the blazer. Inspired by the original knitted cavalry fabric, these polished wool garments present clean lines and aesthetic all wrapped with a sartorial feel…
Lightweight and warm, the knitted wool blazers draw inspiration from the original versions worn by the staff of the H.M.S. Frigate back in 1837, but also from World War I and the Ivy League universe… A refreshing array of beautifully made garments that’s definitely worth keeping an eye out for.
The ever shifting fashion world is one that draws inspiration from everything around it: art, culture, design, media, past, present or even future. As Sir Paul Smith so eloquently put it: “Inspiration can be found everywhere, if you can’t look again”. Work, mountain, navy and armywear, all have experienced trend bursts and become not only subjects for themed collections but also menswear staples in their own right. However, few have been so hyped as camouflage in recent seasons.
Although camo and military inspired garments have paved their way into street style and designer stores in the past (generally in a tasteless fashion), its recent resurgence on runways and high-end labels has turned this stealthy pattern into one of the most coveted and current around. Even if not solely responsible for it, I have to hand it over to the Woost God for elevating camo to new standards through his unique use of variations on the theme: never has camouflage experienced such love as now.
While at Pitti, one needed only take a look around to feel a part of an exquisitely dapper war game where everyone, if not everything, sported the motif: even resting area tents were made of camouflage canvas. And judging by both AW12 and SS13 collections, the truth is, love it or hate it, camo is here to stay…
Stubbs and Wootton
Dries Van Noten SS13