Engineered Garments SS15
Daiki Suzuki delivers another outstanding collection: a perfect materialization of the vintage-inspired aesthetic Engineered Garments has been known for. Mixing elements of British military stationed in India with a somewhat preppy influence, the result is an incredible mix of pattern and texture, spread throughout reinvented classics.
Brioni SS15 Collection
Navy + Camel
The notion of “time tested” has recently been associated with outdated or boring, something stagnant that presents little to no margin to evolve or update. In my opinion, nothing could be further for the truth… Without addressing the whole heritage universe, “time tested” simply translates into garments, styles or combinations which are universally praised as pillars of good taste, passed on through generations. Case in point: the outstanding match between navy and camel.
Few other combos balance understatement with visual appeal in such a compelling way. Although the original attires usually exuded a more formal aura, in this look, I resorted to updated interpretations of navy and camel garments to portray casual sophistication. The unstructured double breasted blazer by CAMO draws inspiration from traditional navy uniforms, featuring amazing cuffed sleeves, moderate peak lapels and a lightweight cotton fabric, pairing beautifully with the pleated camel chinos. The washed denim shirt and navy suede loafers add contrast and texture to the look.
Details: double breasted blazer by CAMO, denim shirt by Hentsch Man, pleated chinos by Purificacion Garcia, suede loafers by Buttero, shades by Linda Farrow Luxe, watch by Daniel Wellington and ring by Progetto Fede.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
MAN 1924 SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, the outstanding label run by my friends Carlos, Jorge and Olga needs little to no introduction. From Spain to the world, they have been able to set MAN 1924 as a menswear reference for good taste and classic tailoring with a twist. Meeting with them and going over their creations is always pleasure: besides the amazing garments, they present what is arguably the best styling and layering at Pitti.
The perfectly balanced mix of casual and polished elements, brilliant pattern and texture combinations and superb use of accessories, results in an eye-catching collection that appeals to most. To top it off, a brief conversation is enough to understand their passion and the authenticity poured into each creation, as they embody this very personal style and philosophy reminiscent of the Spanish tradition.
For SS15, the collection delivers a classic color palette focused on pastels, with the occasional navy and blue adding some contrast. Linen and lightweight cottons are abundant, as are special waxed and washed finishings spread throughout blazers, parkas and safari jackets. Their interpretation of the safari, featuring a super soft washed cotton fabric and details such as epaulets, belt and deep pockets was probably one of my favourite pieces on display at the fair.