A Summer Essential
A quintessential attire during Pitti Uomo, suits are a constant presence even under the scorching heat Firenze is known for in Summer. Among the myriad of outstanding bespoke works of art, there were some in particular that constantly turned heads: the Solaros. Originally believed to reflect sunlight with a cooling effect, Solaro fabric has been traditionally embraced as a Summer staple. In reality, however, Solaro is a mid-weight wool or cotton fabric, that ranks far behind other lightweight alternatives such as linen. So, what makes it so desirable?
Its main feature is the unique construction which incorporates a contrasting color weft on the underside. Usually presented in herringbone or twill weaves, this distinct feature has earned Solaro universal praise due to the trademark aesthetic and visual appeal. The contrast weft shines through with an iridiscent effect that changes color according to the intensity and orientation of the light source; needless to say this effect is at its best during sunny days.
Although the most common combination is beige with red weft, Solaro is available in a variety of shades including navy, green or brown. Despite not being an alternative for everyone, I must admit I was absolutely taken by it, so much so, that I ordered a cut from Caccioppoli Napoli for a bespoke suit which is now in the making (more on that soon).
Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Beyond Fabric
(above: lighter shades of Solaro, including a more subtle version with silk)
(above: Solaro trousers)
Slumflower - A Short by Street Etiquette
My friends Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh teamed up with Rule of Three to present a series of short films portraying their interpretations of the sartorial universe.
Known by their unique take on bending and breaking classic menswear rules, each video addresses a specific category of garments and accessories. Watch the full series here.
1ST PAT-RN SS15 Pitti Preview
Visiting Silvia, Alessio and Cris has become a regular entry on my agenda ever since I came across 1ST PAT-RN. As a fan and proud owner of 3 of their jackets, it’s always a pleasure to check in and discuss new developments and designs. The unique military inspired aesthetic along with an exclusive “cavalry di maglia” fabric, allows for a tailored yet comfortable look: fully unstructured with no lining, the knitted fabric adjusts to the body and regains its shape after each wash.
For SS15, the major change comes through the addition of bottom pieces such as the indigo selvedge denim and knitted shorts. Also, next season sees a new fabric development come to life: the “gabardina a maglia”, a sort of gabardine twill that provides the first woven approach to 1ST PAT-RN models. Besides the essential single and double breasted jackets, new worker jackets made the cut in beautiful camel and indigo shades.