MAN 1924 SS14 Pitti Preview
Mr. Carlos Castillo’s label has been gaining momentum and well deserved attention for some time now. MAN 1924 embodies Mr. Castillo’s impeccable sense of style, perfectly blending sartorial tradition with a casual effortlessness, all while maintaining a charismatic aesthetic. A perfect use of seasonal fabrics such as lightweight cotton, tropical wool, linen and seersucker helps bring this vision to life, being used in unstructured sports coats, safari jackets and summery shirts.
This balanced fusion between polished and relaxed, portrayed in Mr. Castillo’s own attires (I remember bumping into him and his cousin Jorge while going out for dinner: linen shirt, foulard, cotton cargos, brogues), is part of what makes the brand so appealing and unique. You can find everything from a morning coat or tailored suits, up to everyday alternatives with a trademark panache. A happy coincidence that during my visit to stand, team Armoury was already checking the upcoming collection…
Bespoke Excellence - Biagio Santo
Although not as prone to change as its counterpart, menswear has also experienced its share of cyclical trends, coming and going as both society and designers saw fit. Throughout the years, garments and accessories rotated in and out of the men’s fashion scene, with recent years seeking strong inspiration in early menswear influences, namely through the comeback of accessories. However, during this period, a handful of staple pieces prevailed, only to become menswear essentials in their own right. Among those, few carry such a timeless and quintessential connection to gentlemanliness as the tie.
I recently came in touch with Mr. Leo Faggiano: entrepreneur, artist, traveler, stylist… a man with a rich and unique background in the fashion business. Having studied arts in Rome and London, Leo then moved on to work with André Laug, one of the most renowned designers at the time, granting him the opportunity to travel the world and meet some of fashion’s most influential people.
Nowadays, he’s manager at one of the oldest and most exquisite bespoke tie manufacturers in Europe: Biagio Santo. Founded in Salento, Southern Italy, Biagio Santo brings to life the unique beauty and craftsmanship of traditional tailoring, acquired through a lifetime of dedication and passion for the art. The sartorial skills and techniques are now applied to a variety of luxurious neckwear and pocket squares, entirely handcrafted according to customer’s specifications. Their offerings include a wide array of available fabrics to choose from, including an exclusive vintage library and they are able to craft every model you can think of: 3 fold, 6 fold, 7 fold, unlined, the works. Crafted by an experienced team of tailors and seamstresses, each specialized in a particular step of the manufacturing process, every item is unique and embodies the brand’s values of perfection and excellence.
Buttero SS14 Pitti Preview
It’s always a pleasure to meet my friends from Buttero to catch up with their latest developments. This time around, Luca and Massimiliano showed me around the SS14 collection, which besides evolutions on trademark classics such as the Tanino low and high-top, featured an array of new models. Introducing a new type of thicker rubber sole for the boat shoes and chukkas, along with new sneaker models and slippers, the result is a well balanced selection of casual/polished alternatives always maintaining that unique Buttero feel. New materials such as linen were used for the Taninos, while braided leather and supple suede were chosen for slippers, high-tops and chelsea boots. The latter by the way, are already on my wish list…
Barena SS13 Lookbook