Today I get the chance to review what was undoubtedly one of my favourite pieces shown during last Pitti: MAN 1924's interpretation of the Safari Jacket. Originally the go-to choice of British Military stationed in Africa, the Safari Jacket or Sahariana served the purposed of functionality, with added mobility and comfort meeting the perfect fabric weight to withstand lower temperatures during the evening.
Its distinctive features are reminiscent of the military universe: four or more expandable flap pockets, belted waist and epaulettes. The popularity of the Safari Jacket followed the post-war period, when army surplus was easily found and its unique aesthetic and relaxed nature quickly became a favourite within menswear enthusiasts, namely workwear aficionados. However, in recent years, several brands and designers have re-discovered the underlying beauty of the garment, incorporating a variety of updated versions suitable for more casual or polished attires.
This version from MAN 1924 is the perfect example. Featuring a beautiful army green herringbone cotton/linen fabric, the perfect looser fit makes it a layering essential both for summer days or the upcoming transitional season. Generous pockets allow to carry all everyday essentials, the adjustable waist belt provides a flattering silhouette even when worn unbuttoned and the small details such as horn buttons and epaulettes just add that extra bit of flare. Here I went for a more casual approach, layering it over a houndstooth vest, spread collar shirt and paisley scarf, along with white denim and loafers. Although this look might translate the core essence of the jacket, I cant wait to pair it with more formal attires.
Details: Sahariana by MAN 1924, houndstooth vest by Purificacion Garcia, MTM spread collar shirt, white denim and paisley scarf by Massimo Dutti, grained leather penny loafers by Bexley, aviators by Ray-Ban, vintage bracelets.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
MAN 1924 SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, the outstanding label run by my friends Carlos, Jorge and Olga needs little to no introduction. From Spain to the world, they have been able to set MAN 1924 as a menswear reference for good taste and classic tailoring with a twist. Meeting with them and going over their creations is always pleasure: besides the amazing garments, they present what is arguably the best styling and layering at Pitti.
The perfectly balanced mix of casual and polished elements, brilliant pattern and texture combinations and superb use of accessories, results in an eye-catching collection that appeals to most. To top it off, a brief conversation is enough to understand their passion and the authenticity poured into each creation, as they embody this very personal style and philosophy reminiscent of the Spanish tradition.
For SS15, the collection delivers a classic color palette focused on pastels, with the occasional navy and blue adding some contrast. Linen and lightweight cottons are abundant, as are special waxed and washed finishings spread throughout blazers, parkas and safari jackets. Their interpretation of the safari, featuring a super soft washed cotton fabric and details such as epaulets, belt and deep pockets was probably one of my favourite pieces on display at the fair.
Man 1924 AW14 Pitti Preview
Apart from a few exceptions, most of the brands I look forward to seeing at Pitti host their collections on the venue’s secondary pavilions. Within that small universe, MAN 1924 just happens to present some of the strongest arguments to lure me to the main building…
Simply put, Carlos Castillo’s label consistently delivers outstanding garments, set in a tailoring history and tradition while blending everything with a dash of its bold Spanish heritage. You know what you’re in for: luxurious fabrics, high-end craftsmanship and tailored pieces suitable for the everyday wardrobe of modern men, all perfectly styled through a mix of patterns, textures and accessories. In way, it feels almost comforting stepping into a stand where you know that virtually any garment has the potential to be incorporated into your style, achieving the perfect balance between classic and modern.
I believe it’s this balanced nature that makes it so appealing, to the point where I find myself sharing the stand with some of the most interesting personalities around, be it team Armoury or GQ’s Justin Doss and Jim Moore. A reflection of Mr. Castillo’s personal style, the collection presented a curated selection of polished suiting options and topcoats, along with more casual parkas, macs, blazers and as usual, beautiful foulards.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
MAN 1924 AW13 Lookbook
Starring Carlos Castillo and Jorge Navares, the lookbook exudes the very essence of Winter. Shot in a beautiful country seaside scenario, the focus is on exquisite tailored garments, made from seasonal fabrics such as tweed and heavy wool and showcasing the arts of layering and accessorizing.