Patrick Grant on E.Tautz SS15 Collection. Read the full spread here.
"I don’t think you can ever design just for one person, or just for yourself. Personal tastes are just too narrow. But you design with one single sense in mind, this sense that comes from all of the work you put in at the beginning of the collection. It needs to be something new, but something that people who share your ideas, on everything from art to social history, will understand and want to follow you into."
Recently I got a chance to talk to Nereida Valles and Graciela Razo, the two outstanding girls (and good friends) behind Urbane Menswear. Take a look at the interview below:
Urbane Inquiry presents…
Miguel Vieira of Beyond Fabric
We have been admirers of Miguel Vieira and his blog, Beyond Fabric, for years now. His style embodies classic menswear with his Portuguese heritage peppered in. Miguel exudes an effortlessness with his sharp accessories and timeless suits.
For 2013, Miguel brings a piece of Portuguese style to his readers with his traditional fur-collared coats and capes. The outerwear recently caught the eye of street style photographer Tommy Ton when he photographed Miguel and Alvaro Fernandes at Pitti Uomo for Style.com.
We had the pleasure of talking to Miguel about his introduction to menswear and what we can expect from him and Beyond Fabric in the coming months.
How & when did you become interested in menswear?
I would have to say when I was about 16… My older brother lived in London at the time and I flew there often, while drawing a lot of inspiration from whatever he was wearing. So, he was probably my first style icon so to say…I remember wearing Levi’s Sta-Prest in highschool which were “endorsed” by Eric Flat and featured a yellow furry back pocket; I had it stitched in every pair. You can imagine all the staring, comments and remarks I went through in highschool, but in a way I guess it encouraged me to wear what I really love and not think too much about third parties.
Tell us about your new Portuguese coats & capes line. How has your Portuguese culture influenced your style?
Although I decided to write the blog in English as a means to reach a global “audience”, I’m proud of being Portuguese and of our strong heritage and tradition in the textile and shoe industry. After starting the blog and leaving engineering behind, I started paying more and more attention to our national resources: everyone was producing in Portugal, from small independent brands to high-end luxury labels. Running Beyond Fabric and being Portuguese, it was only natural I should promote our national products and show them to the world, as I’ve done in several posts already.
For AW13 I’ll be delivering a line of traditional Portuguese coats and capes worn by shepherds for centuries in our country. These are statement pieces made to resist harsh conditions and keep you warm and can be made from wool or “Burel”, a national unique fabric produced only in two manufacturers. Originally, both jackets and capes feature fur collars and are a bit oversized, making them perfect to wear over a suit (photo of me and Alvaro at Style.com). My idea is to keep their essence while making them a tad more fitted with an exclusive lining, making them available worldwide.
What are your basic wardrobe staples?
I would say a white dress shirt, slim fitting jeans, slacks, cashmere v-neck sweater, brogues and an overcoat/peacoat. Ah, and accessories, always accesories… I think I’d be able to live on those alone, although I do have a big wardrobe.
What are you most looking forward to wearing in the spring?
Some basic essentials from my first Pre-Spring capsule collection FUSS (more on that later), everything linen and bare ankle, boat shoes and slippers.
What were some of the most inspiring things you saw at Pitti Uomo?
Pitti’s a blast in every way, you never know what to expect either from labels or the people roaming around. This time I got a chance to stay there for the whole event and snatch some nice pics of the atmosphere. So, besides the multicultural styles you bump into and are definitely inspiring, there was quite a selection of new brands with interesting products: 1st PAT-RN had really nice tailored knit blazers, Orley had unique waterproof knits and then some of the good old favourites who never disappoint like CAMO or Buttero.
What did you wear today?
Brown herringbone overcoat, striped blue spread collar shirt, navy/gold regimental tie, gray cashmere cardigan, beaten up Levi’s 511 and cognac leather boots.
What do you find yourself wearing most on a daily basis?
Right now, it’s chopped off shorts, a wrinkled old oxford button-down, and these new adidas sneakers I found on 14th Street and am obsessed over.
Wooster talking about his project
Sergei Sviatchenko for VS Magazine - trust the classics
A few commandments from the man behind Close up and Private…
Beyond Fabric @ Papercut Mag
I’ve recently been interviewed by Christine from Un-Stitched, for an article on Papercut Magazine, on the evolution of fashion blogging. The piece focused on the historical context of blogging and how it matured into nowadays definition. It also featured interviews with 3 bloggers: Ashe Mischief from Dramatis Personae, Samantha from The Column of Samantha Tyler and myself.
Check out the scans!