Visvim AW14 Lookbook
A Summer Essential
A quintessential attire during Pitti Uomo, suits are a constant presence even under the scorching heat Firenze is known for in Summer. Among the myriad of outstanding bespoke works of art, there were some in particular that constantly turned heads: the Solaros. Originally believed to reflect sunlight with a cooling effect, Solaro fabric has been traditionally embraced as a Summer staple. In reality, however, Solaro is a mid-weight wool or cotton fabric, that ranks far behind other lightweight alternatives such as linen. So, what makes it so desirable?
Its main feature is the unique construction which incorporates a contrasting color weft on the underside. Usually presented in herringbone or twill weaves, this distinct feature has earned Solaro universal praise due to the trademark aesthetic and visual appeal. The contrast weft shines through with an iridiscent effect that changes color according to the intensity and orientation of the light source; needless to say this effect is at its best during sunny days.
Although the most common combination is beige with red weft, Solaro is available in a variety of shades including navy, green or brown. Despite not being an alternative for everyone, I must admit I was absolutely taken by it, so much so, that I ordered a cut from Caccioppoli Napoli for a bespoke suit which is now in the making (more on that soon).
Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Beyond Fabric
(above: lighter shades of Solaro, including a more subtle version with silk)
(above: Solaro trousers)
1ST PAT-RN SS15 Pitti Preview
Visiting Silvia, Alessio and Cris has become a regular entry on my agenda ever since I came across 1ST PAT-RN. As a fan and proud owner of 3 of their jackets, it’s always a pleasure to check in and discuss new developments and designs. The unique military inspired aesthetic along with an exclusive “cavalry di maglia” fabric, allows for a tailored yet comfortable look: fully unstructured with no lining, the knitted fabric adjusts to the body and regains its shape after each wash.
For SS15, the major change comes through the addition of bottom pieces such as the indigo selvedge denim and knitted shorts. Also, next season sees a new fabric development come to life: the “gabardina a maglia”, a sort of gabardine twill that provides the first woven approach to 1ST PAT-RN models. Besides the essential single and double breasted jackets, new worker jackets made the cut in beautiful camel and indigo shades.
Engineered Garments SS15
Daiki Suzuki delivers another outstanding collection: a perfect materialization of the vintage-inspired aesthetic Engineered Garments has been known for. Mixing elements of British military stationed in India with a somewhat preppy influence, the result is an incredible mix of pattern and texture, spread throughout reinvented classics.
Navy + Camel
The notion of “time tested” has recently been associated with outdated or boring, something stagnant that presents little to no margin to evolve or update. In my opinion, nothing could be further for the truth… Without addressing the whole heritage universe, “time tested” simply translates into garments, styles or combinations which are universally praised as pillars of good taste, passed on through generations. Case in point: the outstanding match between navy and camel.
Few other combos balance understatement with visual appeal in such a compelling way. Although the original attires usually exuded a more formal aura, in this look, I resorted to updated interpretations of navy and camel garments to portray casual sophistication. The unstructured double breasted blazer by CAMO draws inspiration from traditional navy uniforms, featuring amazing cuffed sleeves, moderate peak lapels and a lightweight cotton fabric, pairing beautifully with the pleated camel chinos. The washed denim shirt and navy suede loafers add contrast and texture to the look.
Details: double breasted blazer by CAMO, denim shirt by Hentsch Man, pleated chinos by Purificacion Garcia, suede loafers by Buttero, shades by Linda Farrow Luxe, watch by Daniel Wellington and ring by Progetto Fede.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
Suitsupply showcases a small glimpse of its moodboard inspiration for SS15.
Working with Biella based weavers E. Thomas, Ferla and Vitale Barberis Canonico, we can expect a variety of reinterpreted fabrics dating back to the 19th century, carefully stored within these weaver’s archives: linen, cotton, summer cashmere, kid mohair and seersucker are but a part of this selection. The spice trail also bears a presence in the collection, namely in what regards warmer, dynamic shades that complement the traditional navy and royal blue.
Style Inspiration by GQ Japan
Maison Kitsuné x Oliver Peoples SS14