By now, you must have realized that most of the labels I’m listing as “must see” at Pitti, aren’t necessarily the most renowned or commercial for that matter. The reason behind it is not that I want to portray an image of “I’m way to cool for those”, don’t get me wrong: I’ll be hitting major players as hard as everyone else. The thing for me is that I love to wander around the fair, unaware of the locations, simply stumbling upon brands which I ressonate with…The pure excitement of finding new designers and going through their collections is what drives me, especially now that I’m on the process of starting my own label as well (stay tuned).
Next up on the list is Studiopretzel: Emiliano Laszlo’s creations caught my attention a while back, due to its unique Japanese inspired aesthetic, attention to detail and craftsmanship. Heavily influenced by the designer’s personal experience while living in Japan, Studiopretzel has evolved from producing tees and shirts to delivering an assortment of garments as shown in its AW13 collection. The limited production pieces feature high-end fabrics and several trademark details such as the fabric covered buttons and plays on length. Looking forward to see what Emiliano has in store this time around…
Now that Pitti is one week away, the thought of reuniting with friends and all those outstanding brands is simply amazing. Among the unique labels showing at each of the pavillions, some are definitely becoming a priority on my route. As such, I thought it would be interesting to share with all of you which ones I’m looking forward to visit the most…
In no particular order, the first up is 1ST PAT-RN. Having my good friend Cristiano Berto and his brother Alessio (tailor extraordinaire) as mentors, these military inspired garments are truly one of a kind. To give you a small glimpse of what to expect, here are some scans from its SS13 lookbook.
Aspesi SS13 by Fott
Massimo Dutti June Lookbook
Scabal SS13 Lookbook
Grey and Beige
Grey is a basic essential in every man’s wardrobe, being second only to navy, the epitome of menswear versatility and timelessness. A light grey or charcoal suit and slacks are the perfect example of pieces you’ll most likely end up wearing for years to come. The trick, so to speak, is finding new ways and combinations to sport them in order to keep a polished yet unique look: one that reflects your personality among the remaining thousands of guys wearing the “same” suit. Distinction can be achieved through a number of ways, be it fabric quality and fit, or subtle personal details such as linings, cuff length, etc. - basically you don’t need to reinvent those essentials in order to stand out.
This outfit is the result of a balanced mix between classic and edgier pieces, combining the elegance of grey slacks and beige shades on the sports jacket and derby shoes, with highlights of color and pattern on the accessories. The latter, along with the almost melodic color combination, are definitely what gives the whole outfit a new life: this unique button-down patchwork scarf works perfect both under a jacket (assuming a vest-like appearance) or on its own. The blend of different hues of grey and patterns such as checks, houndstooth and herringbone makes it a statement piece in its own right. A perfect fitting white dress shirt works as a blank canvas for the scarf and burgundy tie and pocket square…
Details: cotton piquet sports jacket by Massimo Dutti, MTO spread collar shirt by AGVA, 110s wool slacks (part of a 3 piece suit) by Purificacion Garcia, taupe suede derby shoes by Buttero, patchwork button-down scarf by Zara, polka dot tie by Vicri, vintage pocket square, tie bar by Tie Rack, watch by Daniel Wellington and shades by Ray-Ban.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Two Italian Boys SS13
I first came in touch with this up and coming label during last Pitti Uomo and couldn’t help to notice the outstanding details, fabrics and construction behind their pieces. It’s been on the radar ever since and I’m looking forward to see what they have in store for this year’s edition…
It took us a while but the 2nd entry of the Beyond Fabric movie series is now up! Shot once again at our hometown of Figueira da Foz, Portugal, the focus is on a polished yet relaxed Summery attire, with Driftwood Collective’s brand new shop as background. Two distinct universes come together through our mutual love of beautiful things and creative concepts, but overall our friendship and brotherhood.
Details: Adam Kimmel cotton/silk peak lapel blazer, Boglioli checked cotton/linen shirt, CAMO cargo pants, Buttero suede boat shoes, Rolex GMT Master II, Viola Milano bracelets and Linda Farrow Luxe tortoise shades.
Mr. Guillaume Néry for Mr. Porter