Nigel Cabourn AW13
Give it up for Harris Tweed…
Olive and Brown
Judging by the gloomy last couple of weeks, it seems Spring is postponing its arrival. Apart from rain, I must say I’m not as fed up with the weather as most of my fellow countrymen who by now, can only picture themselves lying in the sun. I see it as a few more opportunities to play around with garments, layering and mixing them to create unique looks; let’s face it: cold weather attires allow for much more intricate and appealing combinations, in a way, than summery ones.
Although I like to bend the rules of “what to wear when”, especially when it comes to the color palette, sometimes it’s nice to go with the flow and address seasonal shades. These twill CAMO trousers in a beautiful olive shade were one of the most surprising items of the season: high waisted, long crotch, slim fitting and featuring and array of details such as inner buttons for suspenders and button patch pockets, they provide an extremely flattering silhouette. The waxed denim trucker was one of those unexpected finds at Zara, a unique piece that fits perfectly as a layering element under a blazer. A classic white oxford button down to brighten the mood, houndstooth tie picking up on the brown and olive shades and waxed suede derby shoes embodying that usual Buttero roughness.
Details: herringbone wool blazer by Gentleman, waxed denim trucker jacket by Zara, oxford button down by Our Legacy, twill pants by CAMO, waxed wool lined suede shoes by Buttero, cashmere houndstooth tie by Massimo Dutti, houndstooth pocket square by Tie Rack, vintage braided leather belt and wool socks by H&M.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
One of the most inspiring events that took place during the last edition of Pitti, was definitely Angelo Flaccavento’s curated exhibit “Vestirse da Uomo” (Dress Like a Man), where Angelo himself selected 20 essential pieces every man should have in his wardrobe. The event then hosted a panel of renowned menswear icons including Angelo, Wooster and Gianluca Cantaro.
I got a chance to meet my friend Martin from Guaizine and go through the selection with him. Luckily he’s a really great photographer, so my thanks to him!
Details: herringbone wool blazer by Gentleman, houndstooth elbow patched v-neck cashmere sweater by Annapurna 5+1, MTO herringbone flanel spread collar shirt, cords by H&M, double monks by Meermin, glasses by Prada, tie by Carolina Herrera, scarf by Èpice, pocket square by Add On and gloves by H&M.
There are several ways to introduce interesting elements to an attire; although our first impressions are undoubtedly visual, and color plays a huge role in this area, the whole universe that comprises an attire is much more intricate. When it comes down to it, everything from patterns, to contrasts and more importantly textures, have a significant impact in the outcome: after all, in its bare essence, we are dealing with fabrics…
It’s amazing how the same fabric ends up delivering such different garments through alternative production techniques, like in this case wool, used in the heavy knit cable cardigan and smooth floral scarf and herringbone slacks. Striped braces add some panache and the suple taupe suede derbies bring yet another texture to the mix.
Details: cable knit toggle cardigan by Officina 36º, dress shirt by Paul Smith, herringbone wool slacks by Gentleman, suede derby shoes by Buttero, cap by H&M, shades by Linda Farrow Luxe, wool/silk scarf by Èpice, braces by Tie Rack and polka dot socks by H&M.
Model and styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Green and Burgundy
Most likely not the first color scheme that comes to mind when thinking about Fall attires, both green and burgundy (on their own) are two of the season’s staples. Although I love trying new combinations within my wardrobe, I have to give credit for this one to Fábrica dos Chapéus who recently sent me one of their outstanding fedoras: a custom version featuring a rich burgundy grosgrain stripe over dark green wool: in a word…perfection! Taking a new approach to the art of hatmaking (more on that on a future post), this model has an uneven brim which is shorter on the sides and longer at the front providing an edgier, yet elegant silhouette. The hat served as an inspiration and was the core piece, allowing the rest of the look to fluidly pull itself together making use of complementing shades and contrasting textures.
Details: wool herringbone blazer by Gentleman Tailors, cotton/wool cardigan by H&M, candy striped oxford button down by Our Legacy, perfect shape cargo pants by Uniqlo, suede Wallabees by Clarks, custom wool fedora by Fábrica dos Chapéus, vintage checked wool tie, vintage pocket square and striped socks by H&M.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira