A Summer Essential
A quintessential attire during Pitti Uomo, suits are a constant presence even under the scorching heat Firenze is known for in Summer. Among the myriad of outstanding bespoke works of art, there were some in particular that constantly turned heads: the Solaros. Originally believed to reflect sunlight with a cooling effect, Solaro fabric has been traditionally embraced as a Summer staple. In reality, however, Solaro is a mid-weight wool or cotton fabric, that ranks far behind other lightweight alternatives such as linen. So, what makes it so desirable?
Its main feature is the unique construction which incorporates a contrasting color weft on the underside. Usually presented in herringbone or twill weaves, this distinct feature has earned Solaro universal praise due to the trademark aesthetic and visual appeal. The contrast weft shines through with an iridiscent effect that changes color according to the intensity and orientation of the light source; needless to say this effect is at its best during sunny days.
Although the most common combination is beige with red weft, Solaro is available in a variety of shades including navy, green or brown. Despite not being an alternative for everyone, I must admit I was absolutely taken by it, so much so, that I ordered a cut from Caccioppoli Napoli for a bespoke suit which is now in the making (more on that soon).
Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Beyond Fabric
(above: lighter shades of Solaro, including a more subtle version with silk)
(above: Solaro trousers)
Brioni SS15 Collection
The Perfect Tab
Having worked in the shirting business for the last 2 years, I’ve developed a serious passion and consideration for the dress shirt. Once overlooked as a mere complement to any menswear attire, it has recently achieved a much deserved popularity as a stand-out piece in most wardrobes. This pro-shirt movement has resulted in a variety of models ranging from fashion forward to reinterpretations of classics such as the club, pin or tab collar.
Among the latter, one of my personal favourites is definitely the tab collar: a trademark gentleman’s staple, the tab is the perfect match for all those who love or have to incorporate a tie in their ensemble. This specific model features two tabs located at the middle of the collar points, which fasten beneath the tie, elevating the knot and creating a unique flare that portays elegance and distinction. When renowned shirtmaker Emmett London contacted me a while back, I was excited to test run its version of this menswear essential.
Made from super fine Giza 87 poplin, this slim fit dress shirt features a snap closure tab of perfect proportions: the collar points sit beautifully on the shirt front, while the tie knot rises to the perfect height. The slim fit is spot on, as is the construction and small details such as mother-of-pearl buttons and high stich density. To match its elegance, I went for a put together look with my own personal twist: the fully unstructured peak lapel blazer and tailored slacks are toned down by the woven vest, while the color palette picks up on different shades of blue namely through the accessories.
Details: peak lapel cotton/silk blazer by Adam Kimmel, garment dyed vest by 1st PAT-RN, giza 87 poplin tab collar shirt by Emmett London, mto slacks by Gentleman Tailors, woven leather loafers by Buttero, polka dot tie by Purificacion Garcia, braces by Boggi and watch by Rolex.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
Façonnable SS15 Lookbook