The Perfect Tab
Having worked in the shirting business for the last 2 years, I’ve developed a serious passion and consideration for the dress shirt. Once overlooked as a mere complement to any menswear attire, it has recently achieved a much deserved popularity as a stand-out piece in most wardrobes. This pro-shirt movement has resulted in a variety of models ranging from fashion forward to reinterpretations of classics such as the club, pin or tab collar.
Among the latter, one of my personal favourites is definitely the tab collar: a trademark gentleman’s staple, the tab is the perfect match for all those who love or have to incorporate a tie in their ensemble. This specific model features two tabs located at the middle of the collar points, which fasten beneath the tie, elevating the knot and creating a unique flare that portays elegance and distinction. When renowned shirtmaker Emmett London contacted me a while back, I was excited to test run its version of this menswear essential.
Made from super fine Giza 87 poplin, this slim fit dress shirt features a snap closure tab of perfect proportions: the collar points sit beautifully on the shirt front, while the tie knot rises to the perfect height. The slim fit is spot on, as is the construction and small details such as mother-of-pearl buttons and high stich density. To match its elegance, I went for a put together look with my own personal twist: the fully unstructured peak lapel blazer and tailored slacks are toned down by the woven vest, while the color palette picks up on different shades of blue namely through the accessories.
Details: peak lapel cotton/silk blazer by Adam Kimmel, garment dyed vest by 1st PAT-RN, giza 87 poplin tab collar shirt by Emmett London, mto slacks by Gentleman Tailors, woven leather loafers by Buttero, polka dot tie by Purificacion Garcia, braces by Boggi and watch by Rolex.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
Breaking the habit #3
For the final entry on the series I’ll focus on sporting the suit jacket on its own, which for me, is probably the most difficult version of the breakdown to master. Due to my own personal style and wardrobe composition, I usually stray from wearing the suit jacket alone as I have a variety of blazers to choose from, but that doesn’t mean this is not a great variation to go with. The trickiest part here is that depending on the fabric, the jacket is likely to portray a sophisticated feel which requires the rest of the look to match accordingly, making relaxed attires a bit harder to pull off. The easiest way to avoid this is to go for an overall refined ensemble, simply pairing the jacket with contrasting slacks…however, as the end result is quite similar to a “full-suit” look, I wanted to take a different approach.
In this particular case, both the windowpane pattern and natural sheen of the navy wool carry a natural elegance that set the mood for the other pieces. I could actually picture this look with a pair of fitted dark blue/raw jeans instead, but since mine are heavily worn out, the unmatched shades of blue didn’t make for a proper alternative. As such, I chose to go with a pair of polished beige chinos and balance the remaining attire with an untucked white shirt, green sweat and a pair of leather cognac ankle boots. Accessories are a necessity as the floral brown scarf proves yet again…
PS: please bear in mind that although you can and should wear suit pieces separately, the same rule does not apply when it comes to garment care. Always make sure to take the full suit to the dry cleaners, to ensure the utmost color affinity throughout the years.
Details: navy wool windowpane jacket (part of a suit), white dress shirt, cognac leather boots and lapel pin by Purificacion Garcia, green sweatshirt by Our Legacy, beige chinos by Acne, wool floral scarf by Èpice and polka dots socks by H&M.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira