Pal Zileri AW13 Lookbook
Although summer just hit its peak here in Portugal, fashion’s cyclical nature waits for no one. With Autumn/Winter collections well advanced in most fashion retailers, time has come to start thinking about your selection for the “upcoming” season. Covering everything from formal, to sartorial everyday attires and even snow wear, Pal Zileri is definitely worth considering. Coincidentally, besides the outstanding garments, I couldn’t help to notice that the featured model is portuguese Ricardo Guedes.
Orley SS14 Lookbook
I first met the trio behind Orley during Pitti Uomo 83 and couldn’t help to be amazed by their outstanding knitwear offerings (they were showing AW13 at the time). The american based, italian made label is an expert when it comes to knitwear, incorporating highly advanced techniques into sweaters, cardigans and jackets. For SS14, the brand presents yet another refreshing and irreverent approach, expanding the collection to incorporate tailored trousers and relaxed pleated shorts.
Eleventy SS14 Pitti Preview
After following Mr. Baldassari’s label for quite some time, I must say expectations were high for Eleventy’s upcoming collection: thankfully, they were not only met, but actually surpassed. Presenting a well balanced collection, Eleventy once again managed to deliver all-round pieces, perfect for polished everyday attires, with a unique panache. I guess the most appealing element for me is its core “casual meets sophisticated” essence, a trademark element that makes it easy for you to resonate with particular pieces, no matter which style you favor the most.
This time around, everything revolved around lightweight, comfortable fabrics, able to adjust to different body shapes. Tailored sports coats, hoodies and gilets mixed with washed jeans and chinos, exuded a contemporary urban feel achieved through unique layering; supple perforated suede bomber jackets made for perfect outerwear alternatives, while a wide range of accessories and shoes complemented the whole offering.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Proper Cloth pays homage to the timeless oxford shirt…
Thom Browne AW13 Lookbook
Stepping down from the overwhelming runway shows, the american designer presents a more toned down and, in my opinion, wearable collection, that manages to stay true to his roots and trademark elements such as padded shoulders, plaid patterns and high cropped pants.
MAN 1924 SS14 Pitti Preview
Mr. Carlos Castillo’s label has been gaining momentum and well deserved attention for some time now. MAN 1924 embodies Mr. Castillo’s impeccable sense of style, perfectly blending sartorial tradition with a casual effortlessness, all while maintaining a charismatic aesthetic. A perfect use of seasonal fabrics such as lightweight cotton, tropical wool, linen and seersucker helps bring this vision to life, being used in unstructured sports coats, safari jackets and summery shirts.
This balanced fusion between polished and relaxed, portrayed in Mr. Castillo’s own attires (I remember bumping into him and his cousin Jorge while going out for dinner: linen shirt, foulard, cotton cargos, brogues), is part of what makes the brand so appealing and unique. You can find everything from a morning coat or tailored suits, up to everyday alternatives with a trademark panache. A happy coincidence that during my visit to stand, team Armoury was already checking the upcoming collection…
Mr. Hare SS14 Pitti Preview
Maintaining the outstanding quality and balance between classic and fresh, Mr. Hare’s collection featured several must-haves. That right wing in a beautiful cognac brown showcased pretty much all my favourite essentials (I favour brown anytime), while on the left, a variety of summer staples such as espadrilles and driving loafers brightened the mood in neon green, blue and yellow shades. Other models included two-toned derbies, bucks, loafers and monks in a subtle off-whitish shade, perfectly in tune with the seasonal color palette. On top of the sheer beauty and attention to detail, there’s always a small reflection of its founder’s personality in each of these shoes, as I could attest after going through the collection with Mr. Marc Hare himself. Definitely one of the most charismatic designers I’ve met to date, it’s hard not to be influenced by his overall good mood, wit and humour; plus, he’s passionate about Portugal as well so what’s there not to like?
Ph: Beyond Fabric @ Pitti Uomo