Engineered Garments SS15
Daiki Suzuki delivers another outstanding collection: a perfect materialization of the vintage-inspired aesthetic Engineered Garments has been known for. Mixing elements of British military stationed in India with a somewhat preppy influence, the result is an incredible mix of pattern and texture, spread throughout reinvented classics.
A Tribute to CAMO
There’s a reason why every “Spring Essentials List” has a lightweight technical or waxed parka in it. Despite the outstanding last couple of days, the season has a special way of catching you off guard as we’re still in for several rainy days, the so called spring showers. Although waterproof technical fabrics are a great alternative, I can’t help to be drawn by the look and feel of waxed garments and mind you, Barbour is not the only way to go. This olive waxed cotton parka by Our Legacy is a favourite, lightweight and unlined, it’s perfect to throw over a shirt and cardigan when low temperatures are not an issue. Besides the parka which is a statement piece by itself, l love how all the little details come together: the shirt and cardigan shades complement the paisley on the tie and the boots and belt match the adjustable leather drawstrings on the parka.
Details: waxed cotton parka by Our Legacy, contrast club collar shirt (custom made) by Gentleman, cashmere houndstooth elbow patched cardigan by Annapurna 5+1, Levi’s 511 slim (tailored), waxed leather portuguese boots, black tortoise aviators by Linda Farrow Luxe, paisley cotton tie by Tie Rack and braided leather belt by Acne.
Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira
Photography: Rita Lino
If asked to, I believe I wouldn’t be able to pick just one favourite shirt among those I own, but this custom contrast club collar would definitely make it on to the top 5. There’s a certain unique elegance (and versatility) surrounding that rounded collar: although some might argue it begs to be paired with fancy neckwear, be it a tie or a bow, it can easily overlook them for a differentiated buttoned up sans tie look. Moreover, if you’ve been wanting to sport that brand new collar pin, there are few shirts out there as suited for it as this one. One aspect to keep in mind though, is that this model is supposed to be worn buttoned…much like double breasted jackets.
I’ve been sporting it often recently and similar models in different colors and patterns have already made their way into my wishlist. As with every shirt, fabric plays a very important role regarding the suitability and formality attributed to it: a finer fabric will reward you with an exotic dress shirt, whereas oxford cloth makes them the perfect match for that special pair of worn out jeans. This look combines several striking items, such as the checked navy peacoat, houndstooth elbow patched cardigan and the shirt itself, but they all blend in together as none is overwhelming. The emphasis is on the small details: hues darken as you approach the outer layers (light blue, grey, navy), tones are complementing among pieces (tie and patches) and the silver tie bar just adds that extra flare…
Checked navy wool peacoat by Paul Smith, grey wool/cashmere cardigan with houndstooth elbow patches by Annapurna 5+1, custom made light blue contrast club collar shirt by Gentleman, Levi’s 511 slim fitting jeans (tailored), Portuguese boots, vintage brown knit tie, vintage brown braided leather belt, silver tie bar by Tie Rack.