MAN 1924 SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, the outstanding label run by my friends Carlos, Jorge and Olga needs little to no introduction. From Spain to the world, they have been able to set MAN 1924 as a menswear reference for good taste and classic tailoring with a twist. Meeting with them and going over their creations is always pleasure: besides the amazing garments, they present what is arguably the best styling and layering at Pitti.
The perfectly balanced mix of casual and polished elements, brilliant pattern and texture combinations and superb use of accessories, results in an eye-catching collection that appeals to most. To top it off, a brief conversation is enough to understand their passion and the authenticity poured into each creation, as they embody this very personal style and philosophy reminiscent of the Spanish tradition.
For SS15, the collection delivers a classic color palette focused on pastels, with the occasional navy and blue adding some contrast. Linen and lightweight cottons are abundant, as are special waxed and washed finishings spread throughout blazers, parkas and safari jackets. Their interpretation of the safari, featuring a super soft washed cotton fabric and details such as epaulets, belt and deep pockets was probably one of my favourite pieces on display at the fair.
CAMO SS15 Pitti Preview
Camoshita United Arrows AW14 Pitti Preview
Yasuto Kamoshita is, simply put, one of the most stylish individuals around. With a background in architecture and a refined aesthetic sense, heavily influenced by the strong Ivy League movement lived in Japan during the 1960s, his creations embody a modern Japanese dandyism. As creative director of United Arrows, this unique blend of Japanese and American styles results in outstanding collections, marked by beautifully tailored garments and exquisite use of fabrics, patterns and textures.
The AW14 collection maintains the line of thought, delivering a modern take on classic essentials through small tweaks and attention to detail. While the Ivy League and European tailoring references are still at its core, the Japanese will to evolve and elevate things to a new level is visible in each piece. An extensive (and for some, unusual) color palette is paired with a variety of textures, print and patterns, portraying classic elegance with unique panache: bold stripes, diamonds and polka dots come to life in topcoats, suits, blazers and shirts, adding a refreshing twist on these menswear essentials. All perfectly complemented by an array of luxurious accessories such as the paisley silk scarfs of which I’m an unconditional fan.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
100% Capri @ Bal Harbour
A few days ago I got a chance to visit the luxurious, exquisitely curated Bal Harbour in Miami. Simply put, this shopping Mecca carries one of the most outstanding selection of luxury stores and restaurants I’ve seen to date, set to establish a paramount standard of uniqueness. Within the array of refined labels such as Kiton, Canali, Cucinelli or Loro Piana, there was one in particular that caught my attention: 100% Capri.
Created by Antonino Aiello, the label turns its focus towards one of the most ancient and noble fabrics - linen. Drawing inspiration from the colors, designs and lifestyle of the homonymous Italian island, the label presents a superb collection of breathable, fitted garments perfectly complemented by shoes and accessories. As an unconditional fan of linen, I was overwhelmed by the sheer beauty and airy, comfortable feel of each garment, which transpire high-end quality and attention to detail.
Unstructured blazers exude a trademark nonchalance with beautiful draping, trousers and shorts have just the right proportions and what to say about the shirts? Outstanding masterpieces such as the tuxedo shirt, or the removable spread collar shirt embellished with small linen diamonds on the front, are truly unique. Featuring light shades such as white, beige and khaki, the color accents are mostly given by the wide range of accessories including suede loafers and slippers, braided belts, scarfs, pocket squares and of course, the outstanding panama hats.
To top it off, the space created by Giachi Architettura e Design is in itself amazing, materializing the collection’s universe and feel through a modern, sophisticated style conveyed by a neutral color palette and use of wooden and leather details throughout. Like the collection, it feels lightweight and appealing while featuring an outstanding use of light, flowers and water to portray a natural ambience. Looking forward to visiting their Firenze store during next Pitti!
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Minotaur SS14 Lookbook
Brunello Cucinelli SS14
Boglioli SS14 “Understated Romance” Lookbook
A quick break from this lousy weather to take a glimpse into the upcoming season’s sunnier days, through the hands of Italian menswear experts Boglioli. Embodying the ethereal theme of romance associated with the season, the lookbook exudes the brand’s trademark refined nonchalance: superb unstructured jackets and suits are beautifully layered with lightweight cardigans, turtlenecks and scarves, all in a muted color palette picking up on natural shades.