Sciamàt SS15 Pitti Preview
On the brink of sartorial perfection…that’s my interpretation of Nicola and Valentino Ricci’s creations. The only real reason I don’t call them embodied perfection, is due to my inherent way of being that compels me to believe that there’s always room for improvement, however little it may be. The truth is that apart from slight taste subtleties, that might lead you to question whether those outstanding peak lapels should be 1cm narrower or wider, or what particular color stripe you wished to see in that windowpane fabric, there’s really nothing else you can beg to differ when it comes to Sciamàt.
Showcasing a fully handmade ready-to-wear line, the cut, fit and proportion were spot on. From the impeccable artisanal construction and true attention to the slightest detail, up to the choice of fabrics and color palette, each garment on display rightfully deserved a place in every sartorial aficionado’s wardrobe (myself very much included). When you consider that besides these offerings they are able to provide you with some of the finest bespoke creations out there, there’s not much more you could ask for..
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Norwegian Rain + T-Michael AW14 Pitti Preview
It’s only fitting that the first entry on the upcoming series of collection previews, features one of the most impressive shown at the venue: Norwegian Rain. This time around the Bergen-based label showcased its outstanding creations alongside those of bespoke tailor T-Michael, one half of NR. Simply put, not only are these guys some of the nicest and most stylish individuals around, they’re also delivering one of the most unique concepts in the current menswear scene.
Within the superb ambience created for visitors, one could find exclusive installations and items evoking their universe of collaborations, as well as the core outerwear pieces from the upcoming line. Along with new colorways, fabrics and textures on trademark pieces, the biggest reveal were the new models on the “Arctic Line” which features shearling collars and linings, that utterly transform the lightweight parkas into full-geared versions able to withstand up to -20ºC. Besides the obvious aesthetic element this brings to the table, it also conveys a more versatile approach to the originals, allowing several combinations that ultimately make the most of your investment.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
WIW Firenze Day 3
Although I packed light, knowing in advance the temperatures are unforgiving in Firenze, I couldn’t resist throwing a suit in the mix. After screening through my wardrobe, the obvious choice became this unstructured cotton/linen version by Boglioli, which has been in heavy rotation as of lately. However, the focus here is the bespoke shirt, a model of my own creation: inspired by a japanese aesthetic, I aimed to introduce added versatility to a piece which is otherwise static. The unique placket is fastened using silk knots which can be changed according to your mood or to match a particular element of your attire. The extra length allows for interesting layering, while the tunic-like nature is complemented by side pockets and mao collar.
Details: cotton/linen 2 piece suit by Boglioli, bespoke silk knot shirt, suede espadrilles by n.d.c., wayfarers by Ray-Ban, pocket square by Add-On and watch by Daniel Wellington.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Bespoke Excellence - Biagio Santo
Although not as prone to change as its counterpart, menswear has also experienced its share of cyclical trends, coming and going as both society and designers saw fit. Throughout the years, garments and accessories rotated in and out of the men’s fashion scene, with recent years seeking strong inspiration in early menswear influences, namely through the comeback of accessories. However, during this period, a handful of staple pieces prevailed, only to become menswear essentials in their own right. Among those, few carry such a timeless and quintessential connection to gentlemanliness as the tie.
I recently came in touch with Mr. Leo Faggiano: entrepreneur, artist, traveler, stylist… a man with a rich and unique background in the fashion business. Having studied arts in Rome and London, Leo then moved on to work with André Laug, one of the most renowned designers at the time, granting him the opportunity to travel the world and meet some of fashion’s most influential people.
Nowadays, he’s manager at one of the oldest and most exquisite bespoke tie manufacturers in Europe: Biagio Santo. Founded in Salento, Southern Italy, Biagio Santo brings to life the unique beauty and craftsmanship of traditional tailoring, acquired through a lifetime of dedication and passion for the art. The sartorial skills and techniques are now applied to a variety of luxurious neckwear and pocket squares, entirely handcrafted according to customer’s specifications. Their offerings include a wide array of available fabrics to choose from, including an exclusive vintage library and they are able to craft every model you can think of: 3 fold, 6 fold, 7 fold, unlined, the works. Crafted by an experienced team of tailors and seamstresses, each specialized in a particular step of the manufacturing process, every item is unique and embodies the brand’s values of perfection and excellence.