The safe choice when going for colorful bottoms is to tone the top part down, making use of neutrals. However, going against this and pairing it with yet another strong shade like this wine v-neck can step the whole look up a notch. Love how the ever faithful navy peacoat initially just shows the bowtie and then opens up to reveal a burst of color…
Peacoat by Paul Smith, denim shirt by Our Legacy, v-neck sweater by DKNY, jeans by Zara, waxed derby shoes by Buttero, silk bowtie (vintage), braided leather belt (vintage), watch by Baume & Mercier and bracelet by street vendor.
Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira
Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira
Photography: Rita Lino
Photography: Rita Lino
Urban Menswear Myths #3
Inherent to our perception of color and its earthy, warm or cold tones, we are keen to associate it with different seasons of the year. As a rule of thumb brighter/lighter shades become Summer staples, whereas warmer/darker ones are usually considered for Winter.
This division of the color palette into strict seasons always put me off in a way, but I can relate to it simply by taking human behaviour into account. We’re moody beings, subject to humor variations which besides our personal issues, are undoubtedly influenced by the weather itself. Our usual good Summery mood, a kind of temporary euphoria, leads us to express it through the use of color; in Winter however, our gloomy disposition is the perfect match for darker shades. Nonetheless, we were also given the gift of thought and decision making, which should overcome our humor when it comes to outfits.
One of the colors which is discarded right off the bat come colder days, and regrettably so in my opinion, is white. The epitome of lighter shades, it’s usually viewed upon as a SS alternative not only for its shiny mood but also for the ease of getting dirty. There’s no argument there: white will always be prone to stains, even more so in rainy, windy days. Sporting it in the rain might be a bit of a stretch, but it shouldn’t be left out of your wardrobe as it’s likely you’ll experience a few nice days during the season. Pulling off your white jeans with a hunter green cashmere sweater, topped with a navy duffle coat and snuff suede double monks is well worth the trouble of throwing them in the washer afterwards… and besides, they aren’t meant to look pristine all the time. After all, you still sport your crisp white shirts, so why give up the bottoms?
I had something like this in mind: Gloverall Mid Length Duffle Jacket, Kitsuné V-neck Cashmere Sweater, Rugby Solid University Oxford, Zara Jeans, Ovadia & Sons Snuff Suede Milford Double Buckle Shoe and Anderson’s Woven Belt.
Autumn shades - Hunter green + Mustard. The rich, darker shades of green and chocolate suede perfectly balance the bold nature of the jeans.
Green oxford button down by Ralph Lauren, mustard slim fit jeans by Zara (tailored), “vintage” suede boat shoes by Buttero, belt by A.P.C., watch by Rolex (GMT Master II), bracelet by street vendor and canvas/leather messenger by Zara.
Beyond Fabric suggests…
This time around, inspired by the days off I’m currently enjoying, I’ve decided to put together a more beachy look. When it comes to warm weather attire, shorts are one of the most controversial items: “purists” discard them on behalf of lightweight linen or tropical wool trousers, whereas many consider them a Summer essential. I for one, believe shorts are a great alternative when the temperature rises, given that you pay as much attention to fit as you
should would with any other item.
These creased military green cotton cargo shorts by Ovadia & Sons are some of the best out there: fitted, breathable and overall stunning. Pair them with a slim fitting polo shirt, the perfect alternative to take a rest from shirts but still present a more polished look than with a simple tee. To face those late chilly afternoons and add a splash of color to the mix, it doesn’t get much better than this orange cotton v-neck sweater by Purificacion Garcia. Ditch the flip flops for a pair of canvas espadrilles, put your Clubmasters on and don’t forget to pack your towel and sunscreen in your canvas tote.
Polo Ralph Lauren Slim Fit Pique Polo - € 80.00 @ Mr. Porter
Jordan Cargo Shorts - (approx.) € 110.00 @ Ovadia & Sons
V-neck cotton sweater - € 32.00 @ Purificacion Garcia
Navy Boat Espadrilles - € 25.64 @ Asos
Striped Shopper - € 19.95 @ Zara
Ray Ban Clubmaster - (approx.) € 103.00 @ Ray Ban
A pinch of ethnicity #3
For the final entry of the series I’ll focus on the vintage handcrafted patchwork “berbere” belt. The first thing that caught my eye was the variety of colors and detailing: if you thought the tunic was a bold piece, this one definitely takes the crown. The thing is, being an accessory, it has a much smaller impact on the overall ensemble, making it easier to pull off. As belts are usually perceived as a finishing touch or embellishment, they pose the perfect opportunity to add a splash of color and boldness to an outfit; even if you’re wearing a suit, don’t be afraid to tone it down a bit.
Due to its length and marked creases at distinct parts, it’s likely that the original owner wore it tied up at the front or side, letting the long ends drape over the leg. Although this is a great look, here I went for a more usual approach, doubling it through the belt loops and incorporating it into a casual, weekend appropriate look: trim navy bomber jacket, crisp white shirt, slim dark blue jeans, boat shoes and messenger bag. As the belt is a such a bold statement piece by itself, the best way to make it work is to balance the rest of the look, avoiding strong shades or patterns, so as not to go overboard.
Slim navy bomber jacket by Lacoste, white dress shirt by ACNE, dark blue jeans by Levi’s (511 slim - tailored), vintage patchwork moroccan belt, light brown crepe sole boat shoes by Buttero and brown canvas messenger by Zara.
Beyond Fabric suggests…on the cheap edition
A while back my good friend Miguel was going on and on about how fashion was for the wealthy and the myth of an affordable version of it. Designer clothes are indeed expensive: be it due to the materials used, craftsmanship involved, branding or simply the exclusive status they provide to those who wear them.
However, with all the available offerings out there, be them low cost garments, local brands/artisans or the vintage universe, all you need to pull off an original and appealing look “on the cheap”, is creativity.
Miguel challenged me to put up a complete look for under 200€, since he had been struggling with it. It might not be the easiest task if you try to stay away from a head to toe “low cost retailer” ensemble…
This whole look revolves around the vintage Lacoste Harrington Jacket. It was an amazing find at one of my favourite London’s vintage shops: Rokit. I’ve really been into pale colors lately, and this yellow shade is just perfect for Spring; the tartan lining is a great plus. Although I’m a strong supporter that guys should push the boundaries and try new things, sometimes it just feels right to stick to the classics: a basic crewneck tee, chino-like cotton trousers and timeless canvas sneakers.
Pale Yellow Vintage Harrington Jacket by Lacoste - (approx.) 50€ @ Rokit
Heather Plum Crewneck T-Shirt - (approx.) 18€ @ American Apparel
Grey Cotton Structured Trousers - 29,95€ @ Zara
Off White Vans Authentic Canvas Sneakers - (approx.) 45€ @ End Clothing
Hickoree’s Hard Goods Canvas Utility Bag - (approx.) 26€ @ Hickoree’s Hard Goods
Extra details on the vintage jacket