Linen on Linen

What I believe to be one of the most underrated and misunderstood fabrics, is undoubtedly one of my personal favourites. I won’t deny I have a passion for heavier textured winter fabrics as well, but there’s something unique to linen that makes me passionate about it. The ultimate Summer choice, this lightweight crinkled fabric is perfect to pull off intricate looks in the blistering heat, due to its breathability and unique fibers: and here is where opinions divide… Linen will always have a characteristic feel and crinkled look after wearing, which many consider rough and too relaxed or sloppy - for me, that’s just the beauty of it.

The unique charisma of a slightly wrinkled linen suit perfectly paired with horsebit loafers and unbuttoned shirt, it’s a hard one to match. Especially since nowadays ecru has given place to brighter shades and bolder patterns, allowing for endless possibilities of (un)polished elegance… As with all fabrics, quality linen comes at a price but there are a few affordable alternatives out there worth taking a look at, especially Zara: the Spanish giant produces not only some of the most original pieces but also with quite surprising quality. Both the vest and trousers feature a soft feel with just the right amount of roughness and stiffness to ensure a great fit (with some minor adjustments and tailoring of course). The intricately detailed vest pairs beautifully with the camo boat shoes while the rest of the look is toned down by a white dress shirt and navy pants.

Details: linen vest and pants by Zara, v-neck by Purificacion Garcia, dress shirt by Paul Smith, camo boat shoes by Asos, vintage floral pocket square, shades by Ray-Ban and watch by Daniel Wellington.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira

Source: beyondfabric

Olive and Brown

Judging by the gloomy last couple of weeks, it seems Spring is postponing its arrival. Apart from rain, I must say I’m not as fed up with the weather as most of my fellow countrymen who by now, can only picture themselves lying in the sun. I see it as a few more opportunities to play around with garments, layering and mixing them to create unique looks; let’s face it: cold weather attires allow for much more intricate and appealing combinations, in a way, than summery ones. 

Although I like to bend the rules of “what to wear when”, especially when it comes to the color palette, sometimes it’s nice to go with the flow and address seasonal shades. These twill CAMO trousers in a beautiful olive shade were one of the most surprising items of the season: high waisted, long crotch, slim fitting and featuring and array of details such as inner buttons for suspenders and button patch pockets, they provide an extremely flattering silhouette. The waxed denim trucker was one of those unexpected finds at Zara, a unique piece that fits perfectly as a layering element under a blazer. A classic white oxford button down to brighten the mood, houndstooth tie picking up on the brown and olive shades and waxed suede derby shoes embodying that usual Buttero roughness.  

Details: herringbone wool blazer by Gentleman, waxed denim trucker jacket by Zara, oxford button down by Our Legacy, twill pants by CAMO, waxed wool lined suede shoes by Buttero, cashmere houndstooth tie by Massimo Dutti, houndstooth pocket square by Tie Rack, vintage braided leather belt and wool socks by H&M.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira

Polka Dots & Houndstooth

Taking garments and accessories out of their original context is one of the things that inspires me the most when it comes to menswear. This is something I’m constantly looking out for in new collections or simply by observing stylish individuals on the street. As menswear “rules” bend more and more, so do the limits of creativity and mixing and matching. 

Bowties are no longer the epitome of formality nor limited to tuxedos…as a matter of fact, this is precisely one of the pieces I love dressing down with a relaxed candy striped oxford shirt and a pair of worn out jeans. A cashmere cardigan with contrasting houndstooth elbow patches and a reversible gillet add the final details to a casual, put together weekend attire…

Details: reversible gillet by Zara, houndstooth elbow patched cardigan by Annapurna 5+1, candy stripe oxford button down by Our Legacy, jeans by Levi’s (511), polka dot bowtie by Add On, cashmere scarf by Burberry, vintage braided leather belt and watch by Daniel Wellington.

Source: beyondfabric

#15 - Zara Indigo Cotton Blazer
View Separately

#15 - Zara Indigo Cotton Blazer

A Unique Parka

Whenever the weather allows it, changing from heavy duffle or overcoats to something lighter and more practical is a welcome change. The lightweight parka is an essential and versatile addition to any wardrobe, an allrounder wearable from early Fall to late Winter. This Cross Jacket is a perfect example, combining a soft twill fabric with several outstanding details such as a warm puffed lining, adjustable drawstring on the waist with leather detailing, biased patch front pockets and button cuffs. Its mao-like collar works brilliantly with a turtleneck sweater, providing the perfect chance to take a break from shirts while keeping a polished and elegant look. I must say my position on turtlenecks has been one of love/hate, mostly because of the poor uses we come across on a daily basis, but also due to its cliché-ish associations. To keep things interesting a dash of color through orange chinos and striped socks, balanced by a pair of blue suede loafers…

Details: Cross Jacket by CAMO, merino wool turtleneck sweater by Zara, chinos and socks by H&M and suede loafers by Buttero.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira 

Transitioning

Autumn seems to have arrived in full strength, providing us the perfect opportunity to start playing around with layers and transition garments. While the temperature allows, you can get away with layering shirts with cardigans and lightweight jackets or, making use of another staple: the puffed vest. As I’ve mentioned before, this Peavest by Tonello instantly became one of my all time favourites, not only because of its uniqueness as it combines elements from puffed vests and the classic peacoat, but also due to its versatility: it can be worn over a shirt, sweaters or even sportcoats and suits. Here I paired with a white dress shirt and played around with shades of green (blackwatch scarf and argyle socks) and brown (suede holdall and double monkstraps). Lately, I’ve been having a hard time avoiding hints of dark green in my attires and there are few other shades that complement brown and blue as nicely.

Details: Peavest by Tonello, white dress shirt by Paul Smith, Levi’s 511 slim (tailored), double monks by Zara, reversible blackwatch/navy scarf by Coisas d’Homem, vintage suede holdall, watch by Rolex (GMT Master II), bracelets and socks by H&M.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira

Source: beyondfabric

Zara Fringed Monks

Source: zara.com

Demystifying the vest

When it comes to vests, it’s a thin line that which sets them as classic menswear staples and apart from a waiter’s uniform. What was once an unmistakable presence in the wardrobe of any so called gentleman, has in time, become associated mostly with highly formal occasions or the downgrading common ground of working attire. Thankfully, the recent sartorial influences in menswear have been slowly bringing back this iconic piece, mainly through the growing popularity of the 3 piece suit. With more and more young men sporting suits as means of self expression instead of wearing them solely to the office, the suit breakdown has allowed vests to breathe and once again take their rightful place in men’s fashion. 

The truth is the vest is one of the most versatile pieces in your wardrobe: wear it as the third piece in a suit for timeless elegance, pair it with slacks for a put together look or by itself with a shirt and denim for an unusual twist. This speckled vest was a 2£ find at a London vintage shop and although not being part of a suit, it’s a great way to add a polished feel to a look. Here I paired it with more relaxed elements such as chinos and boat shoes while keeping it sharp with a spread collar shirt and paisley pocket square. Love how the complementing shades on the bracelets, pocket square, watch and chinos all come together for visual coherence. 

Details: vintage speckled navy vest, MTO white spread collar shirt by AGVA, faded blue chinos by Zara, brown/blue suede boat shoes by Buttero, paisley pocket square by Add On, ribbon belt by Purificacion Garcia, bracelets by H&M, vintage Citizen chronograph and nato strap by Smart Turnout.

Model and styling: Miguel Vieira

Source: beyondfabric

Sharp Florals

There’s no need to go over about how florals have been killing it lately. By now, you’ve all seen hundreds of variations on the theme in every SS12 collection. While I already owned a couple of alternatives, I have a hard time saying no to Our Legacy especially when they deliver a capsule collection with such an outstanding version. The darker shade adds an elegant feel and the pattern is perfect in both color and scale.

Details: 1950’s Seaside Garden Shirt by Our Legacy, cotton crewneck tee by Levi’s, slim fitting jeans by Zara, crepe sole boat shoes by Buttero, bracelet by street vendor and watch by Rolex.

Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira 

Source: beyondfabric

A Rugged Feel

I’ve stressed before the importance of fabric and fit when it comes to adapting to seasonal climate. When the temperature rises there’s one essential I can’t do without: linen. Be it in shorts, trousers, shirts or suits, this organic fabric is one of the best, yet most underrated Summer staples. People often avoid linen due to its delicate nature which easily wrinkles and creases with use, but make no mistake, that’s the beauty of it. This lightweight and breathable fabric is not meant to look pristine, instead it conveys personality and even a sprezzy feel to its wearer, through those “I don’t give a damn” wrinkles. I’d been looking for a pair of slim fitting linen trousers in a darker shade than the usual white or ecru, until I came across this navy version from Zara. Although I only have a few select pieces from the Spanish retailer, the quality of its linen garments is outstanding for the price and well worth taking a look. A few alterations later (cropped and cuffed) and they’ve become one of my heaviest rotated pieces this season.

Details: pale yellow oxford button down shirt by Our Legacy, navy linen trousers by Zara, sunglasses by Linda Farrow Luxe, club tie by Gentleman, tie bar by Tie Rack, leather braided belt by Acne, watch by Rolex and bracelet by street vendor. 

Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira

Photography: Rita Lino


Source: beyondfabric