One of the most versatile essentials you can add to your wardrobe is undoubtedly a classic belted trenchcoat. While this year is all about bold colorful parkas, the timeless panache and unique silhouette portrayed by the trench is, in my opinion, unmatched. It’s just one of those pieces that will endure for eternity as a staple of menswear elegance, so it’s worth splurging on a model that will likely last you for life.
This version by Paul Smith in a trademark khaki shade, has been with me for about 6 years and is definitely one of the most heavily rotated garments throughout the year. Besides the impeccable fit and exquisite details, it features a detachable wool inner lining perfect for colder months, which easily gives place to a lightweight version come Spring time. The muted lighter shade is perfect to contrast with darker bottoms such as charcoal wool slacks, while allowing to go bold on other pieces or accessories for extra flare. Here, burgundy was used to brighten things up and bring visual coherence to the look, with the pale pink shirt providing a clean background.
Details: belted trenchcoat by Paul Smith, cardigan by H&M, dress shirt by Hugo Boss, 110s worsted wool slacks by Gentleman tailors, leather boots by Buttero, tortoise shades by Linda Farrow Luxe, silk tie by Vicri and watch by Rolex (GMT Master II).
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
There’s no denying that our mood is strongly influenced by the weather, be it in a positive or negative manner. Usually, when waking up to a sun-shiny day, you brighten up, put a smile on your face and feel an urge to dress accordingly: no wonder color makes an appearance this time of the year…
This look is all about celebrating those days through color and bold pieces. The thing I love the most about it, besides the color scheme and refined, yet relaxed feel, is the fact that it blends several statement items in a balanced, sophisticated outcome. When going for louder items such as this multicolored stripe shirt, I usually advise caution and toning the rest of the outfit down a notch; however, if you’re willing to risk it, adding yet another strong piece to the mix may elevate a look to the next level.
Although the idea of mixing stripes and polka dots may seem daunting at first, the matching tones and differentiated scale of the patterns work perfectly together. To smooth things down, a two button navy unstructured sportscoat with a twist: the peak lapel, adding an Italian vibe. Light, fitted and presenting brilliant details such as the satin applications on the flap pockets, this has definitely become one of my favourites. Rolled up white jeans and suede espadrilles further emphasize the summery, relaxed feel.
Two button unstructured navy cotton/silk peak lapel sportscoat by Adam Kimmel (S - tailored), multicolored dress shirt by Paul Smith (M), white slim fit jeans by Massimo Dutti (31x32), suede espadrilles by n.d.c., polka dot silk tie by Vicri, glasses by Prada.
Layering it up
Lately we’ve been experiencing some harsh weather, pairing both rain and temperatures of about 5ºC. The art of layering is crucial to withstanding the worst winter days, but even more so when rain joins the picture, as most waterproof garments such as trenches or macs are not the best when it comes to keeping you warm.
Layering consists of wearing several garments on top of each other, in order to increase your body’s thermal insulation. In some of the world’s coldest regions this is vital to your survival…in others, it’s just an amazingly stylish way to stay comfortable. By combining different pieces on distinct “levels” of your outfit, you are able to add visual appeal as well as functionality and versatility, by letting you adjust the number of layers to any given situation.
However, pulling it off may prove to be a harder task than it may seem at first. As a rule of thumb, the thickness of the layers should increase towards the exterior, keeping the thinner pieces closer to your body, as in: tee - shirt - pullover - cardigan - blazer - topcoat (you don’t need to wear them all at once, obviously). Mind you, every rule has exceptions and you can leave it to the Italians to find them…puffed vests over blazers anyone? Other than that, it all comes down to personal taste and experimenting with your pieces to see what works well together.
This is something I wore to work on a cold rainy day. Although this trench has a warm inner lining, it is still not enough, so I paired it with a chunky heavy knit cardigan, a brushed cotton vest, shirt, tie and a reversible scarf. One of my favourite things about this look, besides the color palette, is how the tie remains perfectly framed among all the layers. Also, notice the versatility I mentioned above, as it adapts to more casual (chunky knit), or formal occasions (shirt and vest alone).
Beige trench coat by Paul Smith, navy chunky heavy knit cardigan by Massimo Dutti, vintage brown cotton vest, slim fit pink dress shirt by Hugo Boss, dark blue jeans by Levi’s (511 slim), distressed brown loafers by Lottusse, reversible scarf by Fred Perry, polka dot pink tie by Vicri, brown braided leather belt by ACNE and watch by Gucci.