Brioni SS12 Lookbook - part 3
Brioni SS12 Lookbook - part 2
Brioni SS12 Lookbook - part 1
Although I wasn’t given permission to photograph one of its shops in Rome, the staff was kind enough to give me this season’s lookbook…
Wallpaper’s Handmade for Brioni, simply brilliant…
One of Guido’s personal favourites when it comes to tailoring, P. Johnson just released this lookbook of its outstanding suiting paired with unexpected masked models and vibrant backgrounds. Although there’s a clear Adam Kimmelesque inspiration, the overall result is worth it…
Source: selectism.com
Store info: Laboratorio di Sartoria
When one hears the word tailor, the image of an older gentleman in a suit, chalk in hand, instantly comes to mind. Indeed, tailoring is viewed upon by many as an art of old whose life long apprenticeship is only mastered by well lived men who dedicated their whole lives to it. Although this isn’t far from the truth, the art of tailoring is currently luring new talents into its world: young men bet on perpetuating the century-old tradition of making one look his best.
One such talent is Ayres Gonçalo. Born to a family with strong roots in the tailoring business, he developed a passion for the art at an early age. Growing up in his grandfather’s atelier, to this date one of Porto’s most renowned tailors, he eagerly watched and learned the trade over the years. When the opportunity to study abroad rose, he set course for London’s Savile Row having joined Gieves & Hawkes, where he crafted suits for Prince Charles and Gordon Brown among others. Then followed Hong Kong and New York where his outstanding bespoke creations continued to impress with awe.
Earlier this year and driven by the desire to start his own brand, Ayres returned to his hometown of Porto, where he opened business with fellow tailor and associate Paulo Rodrigues. Laboratorio di Sartoria is not your usual tailor atelier: upon arrival you’re greeted by bold cobalt blue walls, a reflection of these high spirited craftsmen, now in their 30’s. The overall relaxed vibe and good mood is only surpassed by their professionalism and love for the craft easily perceived just a few minutes into the conversation. As a new generation of tailors, their interests and know how are much more up to date and dynamic, allowing the customer to feel not only comfortable but confident that his vision will be perfectly understood, which may pose a challenge with old school tailors. Offering made to measure shirts starting at €80 and two suiting lines, one made to measure starting at €500 and another bespoke fully handmade from €1.800, they offer the perfect chance to get hold of outstanding one of a kind pieces.
Address: Praça Dna. Filipa de Lencastre, nº22, laboratório 99, Porto
email:ayres@ayresbespoketailor.com
Urban Menswear Myths #5
Long goes the time when men relied solely on their trustworthy tailors to keep up to date with the fashion demands of their social agenda. Garments were crafted according to each customer’s needs and liking. Nowadays, a massified fashion industry is hell-bent on delivering a never ending stock of ready-to-wear alternatives at the lowest price: after all, it’s just business…
Thankfully, the tailoring tradition has managed not only to withstand against all odds, but actually thrive in adversity due to the current “retro revival” moment we’re experiencing and the fact people are looking for better quality, unique items. Apart from this, there are those who despite the global change remained faithful to custom made garments, and not necessarily because they’re wealthy. I believe there’s a common misconception where people inherently associate custom made to hefty price tags, which isn’t entirely true.
The price tag depends on a variety of factors such as the item itself, fabric and of course, the craftsman behind it. World renowned tailors may charge you absurd amounts, but then again so do their designers counterparts. As with so many other things in life the key is balance: finding a quality/price ratio that suits you is crucial. Once you do, you’ll see that pieces tailored to your liking may perfectly compete with similar RTW alternatives, with the perk of being unique and perfect fitting. Say you choose a Thomas Mason fabric for a shirt or a Zegna for a suit, the end result may very well be cheaper than the same versions purchased at a retailer.
If you haven’t done so already give it a try, you might be in for a pleasant surprise…
Store info: Lander Urquijo
If you’re a Tumblr habitué and enjoy cruising the endless pages of menswear content, you’ve most likely come across Lander Urquijo’s outstandingly styled mannequins. Presenting a distinct aesthetic, with strong roots in Spanish heritage and occasionally hinting at Italian, this Madrid based store has been causing quite a stir as of recently.
Their innovative approach to the masses, and specifically the target audience, has not only placed them on the radar of every menswear enthusiast, but is also setting a standard for stores across the globe. Instead of focusing solely on the core business of selling garments by means of an online store per se, they do so in a more personal way through their blog, providing customers and bloggers alike with their unique take on the universe that surrounds them. As such, they encourage you to develop a special connection to the brand and those behind it, being enticed to return to the blog on a daily basis; should a specific item grab your attention you need only contact them for purchase.
Although they carry such renowned brands as Barbour by To Ki To or Drakes, their in-house label is where the gold lies. Besides ready-to-wear options in the most varied, bold and often hard to find fabrics, they also offer two alternative bespoke suiting services: one sewn by machine and the other entirely handcrafted. Needless to say, a refined level of tailoring excellence is assured in every garment. It was this ever going quest for perfectionism and attention to detail, that recently earned them the prestigious “Dedal de Oro” award.
If you haven’t done so already, check their Tumblr and hit the follow button!
The store
A glimpse of what to expect…
Hemming conundrums
One of the most important decisions when purchasing any type of bottoms concerns hems. Following the main event, so to say, which consists in finding a pair that suits your liking regarding cut, fabric, color or wash, comes the stage of minor (or not) necessary alterations. Unless you’re buying made to measure trousers, you’ll most likely need to have them tailored: at the very least, lengthwise. We all try to find that “perfect pair”, but these kind of tweaks are usually required and “predicted” by manufacturers (slacks are usually offered without hems and jeans have extra fabric at the bottom).
Besides the initial cuffed/uncuffed dillema, one must decide on the suitable length and amount of break - regarding slacks, I prefer them cuffed, with little to no break - but when it comes to more casual alternatives such as chinos or jeans, I find this to be one of the toughest calls one has to make. Especially since your choice feels much more final and irreversible than with slacks, where usually hems safeguard about 3cm of fabric on the inside or you can simply uncuff them for the extra length; if you choose to crop your jeans and have the original hem sewed in, there’s no extra fabric there, which means no margin for error.
I hadn’t purchased jeans in a while, but recently I got a couple of bold colored ones and found myself struggling with this issue. As with every choice you make, you should weigh the pros and cons prior to your decision; here are a few things to consider:
1 - Roll or no roll
Deciding on whether or not you’ll want to roll them up, is a great way to help you get going. No matter the way you like to roll them, doing so will require extra fabric; the amount will depend on how high you want the roll to sit. If you’re going to sport this look play it safe and leave them a bit longer;
2 - Have them taken in
If you’re considering highly cropped jeans, at the ankle for instance, take into account that that is the slimmest part of your leg. So, if you take a pair of straight leg jeans and crop them at the ankle line, you’ll end up with bell bottoms. That being said, consider taking them in 1cm or so from the shin down;
3 - Original vs regular hem
Some jeans will feature factory made hems which tailors/seamstresses cannot reproduce; they can, instead, reattach them at your desired height. This allows you to preserve the original aesthetic and integrity of your jeans, but will be pricier than a regular hem and you won’t have any extra fabric left;
Original hem (left) vs regular hem (right)
4 - The right shoes
If you’re going for a more traditional look, with the jeans covering a part of your shoe, make sure you’re wearing a bulkier model (such as a brogue) when you have them marked. This is most important for slacks but also applies to denim;
Photo from Leffot blog
5 - Research
Being sure about the end result is a lot different than having a brainstorm of ideas which you won’t be able to accurately express to your tailor/seamstress. Do some research, check out streetstyle blogs or websites and know for sure; you might even show them a pic of what you’re after;
Ermenegildo Zegna Fabrics SS11
Last week, while I was at Gentleman getting my herringbone overcoat measured for tailoring (expect a post once I pick it up), they were kind enough to let me go through the new SS11 Zegna Cloth Catalogue.
Zegna fabrics are known for their quality and elegance, assuming a leading role as the choice of excellence for tailors worldwide, when it comes to made to measure or bespoke garments. Their array of options is suited to cater to your every need, presenting fabrics for every occasion, all of which bear the brand’s renowned quality.
Whenever I get the chance to see and feel these types of fabrics, I get overwhelmed with ideas and enthusiasm…the turning of each page is accompanied by a constant brainstorming of potential garments in the making. I easily get sucked into that sartorial universe, becoming completely immersed in the variety of shades, patterns and textures, only to be brought back to reality when the answer to my inevitable question is given: - “a blazer will cost you around 1000€, suits start at 1500€”…
