Yuketen AW14 Pitti Preview
Mr. Yuki Matsuda’s label has now become a mandatory visit whenever I’m at Pitti. As a footwear aficionado, it’s hard not to drool when faced with Yuketen’s extensive collection, comprised of trademark designs that are constantly elevated to new levels, be it through subtle aesthetical tweaks or core construction techniques.
Although some particular models may be somewhat over the top for my personal taste, the common denominator for all things Yuketen is superb quality and craftsmanship. Starting with skilled artisans who resort to traditional construction techniques, up to the high-end materials and attention to detail, every single item transpires authenticity and love for the product (this goes for both shoes and accessories).
Some of my personal favourites included a beautiful derby shoe with ripple soles, available in supple leather and suede, along with an updated version of the Maine Guide Boot with silver Concho and hand-painted beads.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Oliver Sweeney SS14
Buttero AW14 Pitti Preview
Another visit to the Buttero stand was enough to remind me just why I love these guys so much…and also to start putting some savings aside. This time around I had the honor of meeting the head of the family, the godfather himself: Mr. Mauro Sani, founder of Buttero and father of the current generation running the business (Luca, Massimiliano and Claudio). I was also fortunate to bump into my friends from Por Vocação, who helped set the stand, which besides a massive wooden rocking-horse, featured small windows into Tuscan landscapes, working as miniature showrooms for each model.
A refreshing array of new models filled the stand, including two-toned brogues mixing contrasting elements such as leather and suede, as well as new sneakers, derbies and boots, always with that trademark Buttero feel. Old favourites such as the low and hi-top Taninos are back in new colorways and materials, namely a uniquely finished suede, while paraboots were an inspiration for some of the beautiful, bulkier lasts.
Belstaff AW14 Collection
Paying tribute to the British motorcycle riders of the 1956 International Six Day Trial Race, Belstaff delivers a collection strongly marked by the racing universe. Statement pieces evoke elements of protection and performance, making use of different materials and textures such as leather, suede, shearling, fur or waxed cotton.
I’m pretty sure that one of the things that keeps portuguese people going with (sort of) a smile on their faces is our climate. With ‘Xmas at the door we’re still enjoying beautiful sunny days that drive you to make the most of your city. Embracing the Holidays’ spirit, I teamed up once again with luxury footwear manufacturer Carlos Santos to celebrate traditional seasonal shades showcased through some of their outstanding models. Needless to say that the first roundup is focused on green…
Portraying a distinctive shade highlighted by the soft suede uppers, these ankle boots are definitely one of a kind. Its classic last and construction with leather soles, insoles and lining is perfectly balanced by the unique color, along with details such as contrast stitching and laces. This makes them suitable to wear on a variety of occasions and with different looks, ranging from denim up to a bolder suited attire. Here I incorporated them into a semi-formal ensemble, a personal favourite that will hardly let you be caught off-guard in any given occasion.
I’ve said it before, but I definitely believe green is one of the most underrated colors in menswear…it works perfectly with blue and grey and adds an unexpected feel to the whole look. Picking on the shades of the boots, the green striped shirt pairs beautifully with the navy cashmere tie and blackwatch scarf, while the timeless shawl collar cardigan adds some texture and contrast.
Details: wool shawl collar cardigan by Tommy Hilfiger, MTO green striped shirt, worn-out Levi’s 501, suede ankle boots by Carlos Santos, vintage tortoise shades, reversible blackwatch scarf by Coisas d’Homem, cashmere tie by Massimo Dutti, socks by Paul Smith and bracelets by Viola Milano.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ronnie Fieg x Timberland 6”40 Below Capsule Collection