For the second entry on the Holidays’ collaboration with Carlos Santos, I took it downtown to showcase a seasonal, yet essential shade on every man’s footwear collection: burgundy. A beautiful variation on the traditional use of black and brown, this rich color portrays a unique regal feel and elegance that sets it apart from the rest. Seamlessly blending into a variety of ensembles, burgundy shows an uncanny versatility, covering a wide range of models including boots, loafers, oxfords and brogues. On this occasion I went with the latter…
This interpretation of the timeless brogue features outstanding perforated detailing on the uppers, highlighted by the sheer quality of the leather and the richness of the wine-like shade. The elongated last with slightly round toe adds to the overall elegance of the shoe, enhanced by the leather soles, insoles and lining as well as the contrasting grey laces. I must say that along with derbies, brogues are probably the shoes I wear the most, be it with suits, slacks or just a pair of jeans. Here I kept the core look quite simple, pairing them with charcoal wool pants, white oxford button down and a brownish tweed aviator jacket. Accessories such as the vintage scarf and suspenders portraying hints of burgundy, add visual interest and help the whole outfit stand out.
Details: tweed avio jacket by CAMO, oxford button down by Our Legacy, mto worsted 120’s wool slacks by Gentleman, brogues by Carlos Santos, shades by Ray-Ban, vintage scarf and braces, and houndstooth socks by Pé de Meia.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
On the list #2 - Buttero Footwear
Tommy Hilfiger x George Esquível Limited Edition Loafers
Following their first encounter in 2009 during the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, Tommy Hilfiger and George Esquível have recently joined forces to create a limited edition footwear collection. Coming from two of America’s most renowned designers, the collection takes Hilfiger’s preppy universe and twists it with Esquível’s signature detailing, delivering a unique piece of American history.
Inspired by a vintage aesthetic, the collection is comprised by a loafer and brogue for both men and women: four distinct models made from locally sourced premium leathers and featuring artisanal details such as antique leather washing, hand-punched perforations and hand-appliqued logos using a hot branding iron. Each pair comes with its own limited edition number, customized dust bag and box.
I was lucky enough to receive a pair of the exclusive two-toned loafer created for the collection. The combination of the navy uppers and contrast burgundy applications works beautifully, with the highlights going to the outstanding handcrafted perforations and detailing, which definitely takes them to another level. The last, a bit rounder than the ones I’m used to, was actually a pleasant surprise as its classic nature is evenly balanced by the overall modern take on the loafer.
Buttero x Por Vocação Window Display
Located at Corso Garibaldi in one of Milan’s most hyped districts, Buttero’s “flagship” store is a mandatory stop for everyone visiting the Italian fashion capital. In a recent collaboration with former menswear store turned creative marketing agency Por Vocação, the space now presents a unique window display resorting to vintage faceted backlit glass pieces, evoking the traditional craftsmanship of Murano glass.
Bringing together two very special brands, Por Vocação (my former employer) whose creative director is not only a good friend but a mentor as well and Buttero with whom I have been developing a growing relation based on our mutual love for footwear, this project definitely has a special meaning for me.
Not all things are created equal. Sometimes, the most pleasant surprises come from the least expected places…Case in point? Santalum.
Traditionally, quality footwear is associated with countries with strong roots and history in the industry such as Italy, UK, Portugal or Spain, but as experience has shown us more than once, there are other players to be reckoned with. This is just the case with Indonesian based footwear brand Santalum…While at first it might seem uncanny to think that Jakarta would become renowned for its shoemaking, the truth is Santalum is home to some of the most skilled craftsmen and artisans I’ve seen at work to this day (the video speaks for itself). Production is limited as each pair is entirely handmade, making them unique and embodying the brand’s passion for a trademark vintage aesthetic reminiscent of the 50s and 60s.
Resorting only to premium hides and materials, as well as high-end manufacturing techniques such as hand-stitched Goodyear-Welt construction, quality is ever-present throughout their offerings. These tan rough-out oxford “boots” are the first addition to my never ending footwear collection and I must say I’m really impressed. I love the bulkier last and the brushed tan bull hide, not to mention the construction with hand-stitched goodyear-welted rubber soles and double row stitching. Other details include contrast dark brown leather laces, leather lining on toe and heel and vegetable tanned leather insoles.
PS: Santalum is now available in Europe thanks to my good friend and footwear aficionado Filipe Moreira, so if you’re interested drop him an email at firstname.lastname@example.org