Norse Projects x Tricker’s Derbies
Mr. Hare AW14 Pitti Preview
Although the next edition of Pitti draws near, there’s still enough time to check some of last edition’s highlights. One of my mandatory stops at the fair is Mr. Hare: outstanding footwear and an amazing staff just do it for me. It’s always a pleasure talking to Mr. Marc Hare about the latest collection and just embracing his passion as he goes over ever little detail.
Revolving around the iconic trademark black the brand is known for, it’s virtually impossible not to find a pair you instantly fall in love with. Each model exudes sheer luxury, resorting to high-end materials and craftsmanship techniques, to portray a wide selection ranging from sneakers and moccasins to oxfords, brogues, boots and slippers. A perfectly balanced mix of casual and classic, this collection sees some new designs come to life such as the “invisible stitch” oxfords and an array of accessories with contrasting high shine leather accents.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Grenson x END “Triple Welt” Collection
For the second entry on the Holidays’ collaboration with Carlos Santos, I took it downtown to showcase a seasonal, yet essential shade on every man’s footwear collection: burgundy. A beautiful variation on the traditional use of black and brown, this rich color portrays a unique regal feel and elegance that sets it apart from the rest. Seamlessly blending into a variety of ensembles, burgundy shows an uncanny versatility, covering a wide range of models including boots, loafers, oxfords and brogues. On this occasion I went with the latter…
This interpretation of the timeless brogue features outstanding perforated detailing on the uppers, highlighted by the sheer quality of the leather and the richness of the wine-like shade. The elongated last with slightly round toe adds to the overall elegance of the shoe, enhanced by the leather soles, insoles and lining as well as the contrasting grey laces. I must say that along with derbies, brogues are probably the shoes I wear the most, be it with suits, slacks or just a pair of jeans. Here I kept the core look quite simple, pairing them with charcoal wool pants, white oxford button down and a brownish tweed aviator jacket. Accessories such as the vintage scarf and suspenders portraying hints of burgundy, add visual interest and help the whole outfit stand out.
Details: tweed avio jacket by CAMO, oxford button down by Our Legacy, mto worsted 120’s wool slacks by Gentleman, brogues by Carlos Santos, shades by Ray-Ban, vintage scarf and braces, and houndstooth socks by Pé de Meia.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
On the list #2 - Buttero Footwear
Tommy Hilfiger x George Esquível Limited Edition Loafers
Following their first encounter in 2009 during the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, Tommy Hilfiger and George Esquível have recently joined forces to create a limited edition footwear collection. Coming from two of America’s most renowned designers, the collection takes Hilfiger’s preppy universe and twists it with Esquível’s signature detailing, delivering a unique piece of American history.
Inspired by a vintage aesthetic, the collection is comprised by a loafer and brogue for both men and women: four distinct models made from locally sourced premium leathers and featuring artisanal details such as antique leather washing, hand-punched perforations and hand-appliqued logos using a hot branding iron. Each pair comes with its own limited edition number, customized dust bag and box.
I was lucky enough to receive a pair of the exclusive two-toned loafer created for the collection. The combination of the navy uppers and contrast burgundy applications works beautifully, with the highlights going to the outstanding handcrafted perforations and detailing, which definitely takes them to another level. The last, a bit rounder than the ones I’m used to, was actually a pleasant surprise as its classic nature is evenly balanced by the overall modern take on the loafer.