Passionate about the universe of tailoring, the Armoury presents a small preview of “Antonio’s Colours” - a documentary on renowned tailor Antonio Liverano, depicting his everyday life, background, influences and unmeasurable talent.
MAN 1924 SS14 Pitti Preview
Mr. Carlos Castillo’s label has been gaining momentum and well deserved attention for some time now. MAN 1924 embodies Mr. Castillo’s impeccable sense of style, perfectly blending sartorial tradition with a casual effortlessness, all while maintaining a charismatic aesthetic. A perfect use of seasonal fabrics such as lightweight cotton, tropical wool, linen and seersucker helps bring this vision to life, being used in unstructured sports coats, safari jackets and summery shirts.
This balanced fusion between polished and relaxed, portrayed in Mr. Castillo’s own attires (I remember bumping into him and his cousin Jorge while going out for dinner: linen shirt, foulard, cotton cargos, brogues), is part of what makes the brand so appealing and unique. You can find everything from a morning coat or tailored suits, up to everyday alternatives with a trademark panache. A happy coincidence that during my visit to stand, team Armoury was already checking the upcoming collection…
Mr. Hare SS14 Pitti Preview
Maintaining the outstanding quality and balance between classic and fresh, Mr. Hare’s collection featured several must-haves. That right wing in a beautiful cognac brown showcased pretty much all my favourite essentials (I favour brown anytime), while on the left, a variety of summer staples such as espadrilles and driving loafers brightened the mood in neon green, blue and yellow shades. Other models included two-toned derbies, bucks, loafers and monks in a subtle off-whitish shade, perfectly in tune with the seasonal color palette. On top of the sheer beauty and attention to detail, there’s always a small reflection of its founder’s personality in each of these shoes, as I could attest after going through the collection with Mr. Marc Hare himself. Definitely one of the most charismatic designers I’ve met to date, it’s hard not to be influenced by his overall good mood, wit and humour; plus, he’s passionate about Portugal as well so what’s there not to like?
Ph: Beyond Fabric @ Pitti Uomo
Mark McNairy SS14 Collection Preview
Smith-Wykes SS14 Pitti Preview
Smith-Wykes was one of those pleasant surprises I came across during Pitti Uomo 83, so I was looking forward to drop by and see what it had in store for next Summer. Inspired by 1960s Japan, the collection brings to life vintage japanese culture, with heavy focus on prints and patterns such as hand-carved woodblock prints, making their way onto bomber jackets, tees and crewneck sweaters. Other details, like kimono-stitchings were used on some of the label’s trademark pieces, featuring a soft color palette and resorting to lightweight fabrics such as linen, cotton and slub yarns. Continuously presenting solid, polished garments, Smith-Wykes is definitely becoming a great alternative for all those looking to step up their everyday game…
Norwegian Rain SS14 Pitti Preview
As expected, Alexander Helle and T-Michael’s upcoming creations are nothing short of mindblowing. In my opinion, the duo has been delivering some of the most unique pieces I’ve seen to date, so much so, that even with a scorching 40 degrees in Firenze, I wanted to try each of them on… Instead of (simply) updating or restyling traditional garments, such as trenches or macs, Norwegian Rain is redefining outerwear as we know it, creating unique models that merge some of the most advanced fabric technology with high-end design. Definitely one to keep under the radar.
Ph: Beyond Fabric @ Pitti Uomo
Drake’s London SS14 Pitti Preview
It’s a fact that Drake’s range of accessories hardly ever disappoints and this time was no exception. The welcoming stand filled with warm lightning and that quintessential regal British feel, featured a healthy dose of bright colors, bold patterns and interesting textures. By now, you all know the quality and variety behind Drake’s offerings, so there’s little more to be said…nonetheless, it’s great to see how they seem to strike the perfect balance between classic and updated pieces, ensuring that in this unique mix you are bound to find something to your liking.
Yuketen SS14 Pitti Preview
Paramount quality and authenticity are the most common denominators that come to mind when talking about Yuketen. Built upon the premises of delivering unique artisanal craftsmanship, Yuki Matsuda’s label has become a worldwide reference for all those seeking the highest standards in footwear. Crafted solely by skillful and experienced artisans, its unique take on both classic and trademark models, merge a variety of influences that makes each pair unique. The upcoming SS14 collection carries on an array of updated classics such as boat shoes, loafers and mocs, as well as new features such as jagged rubber soles for added comfort and a unique feel. I wouldn’t dare to choose a favourite, but I must say those whole-cut slip-ons definitely caught my eye…