Camoshita United Arrows AW14 Pitti Preview
Yasuto Kamoshita is, simply put, one of the most stylish individuals around. With a background in architecture and a refined aesthetic sense, heavily influenced by the strong Ivy League movement lived in Japan during the 1960s, his creations embody a modern Japanese dandyism. As creative director of United Arrows, this unique blend of Japanese and American styles results in outstanding collections, marked by beautifully tailored garments and exquisite use of fabrics, patterns and textures.
The AW14 collection maintains the line of thought, delivering a modern take on classic essentials through small tweaks and attention to detail. While the Ivy League and European tailoring references are still at its core, the Japanese will to evolve and elevate things to a new level is visible in each piece. An extensive (and for some, unusual) color palette is paired with a variety of textures, print and patterns, portraying classic elegance with unique panache: bold stripes, diamonds and polka dots come to life in topcoats, suits, blazers and shirts, adding a refreshing twist on these menswear essentials. All perfectly complemented by an array of luxurious accessories such as the paisley silk scarfs of which I’m an unconditional fan.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
CAMO AW14 Pitti Preview
Inspired by the city lights, Stefano Ughetti managed to deliver yet another impressive collection, marked by the influence of urban colors on both new and trademark models. A strong emphasis was given to knitwear, presented in a variety of patterns, textures and shades, while making the best of luxurious fabrics and construction. A shout out to the beautiful speckled effects which embody the sight of an urban environment by night.
Suiting is always one of the most appealing offerings from the Italian label, which manages to deliver a tailored take on casual models through its fitted blazers and low crotch trousers: this time around, beautiful tweed and heavy wool was used to portray a unique wintery feel.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Oak Street Bootmakers AW14 Preview
A small glimpse at two upcoming models from the American label: a most welcome derby in their trademark Horween Chromexcel and a Vibram soled chukka available in rough-out suede or leather.
Man 1924 AW14 Pitti Preview
Apart from a few exceptions, most of the brands I look forward to seeing at Pitti host their collections on the venue’s secondary pavilions. Within that small universe, MAN 1924 just happens to present some of the strongest arguments to lure me to the main building…
Simply put, Carlos Castillo’s label consistently delivers outstanding garments, set in a tailoring history and tradition while blending everything with a dash of its bold Spanish heritage. You know what you’re in for: luxurious fabrics, high-end craftsmanship and tailored pieces suitable for the everyday wardrobe of modern men, all perfectly styled through a mix of patterns, textures and accessories. In way, it feels almost comforting stepping into a stand where you know that virtually any garment has the potential to be incorporated into your style, achieving the perfect balance between classic and modern.
I believe it’s this balanced nature that makes it so appealing, to the point where I find myself sharing the stand with some of the most interesting personalities around, be it team Armoury or GQ’s Justin Doss and Jim Moore. A reflection of Mr. Castillo’s personal style, the collection presented a curated selection of polished suiting options and topcoats, along with more casual parkas, macs, blazers and as usual, beautiful foulards.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Buttero AW14 Pitti Preview
Another visit to the Buttero stand was enough to remind me just why I love these guys so much…and also to start putting some savings aside. This time around I had the honor of meeting the head of the family, the godfather himself: Mr. Mauro Sani, founder of Buttero and father of the current generation running the business (Luca, Massimiliano and Claudio). I was also fortunate to bump into my friends from Por Vocação, who helped set the stand, which besides a massive wooden rocking-horse, featured small windows into Tuscan landscapes, working as miniature showrooms for each model.
A refreshing array of new models filled the stand, including two-toned brogues mixing contrasting elements such as leather and suede, as well as new sneakers, derbies and boots, always with that trademark Buttero feel. Old favourites such as the low and hi-top Taninos are back in new colorways and materials, namely a uniquely finished suede, while paraboots were an inspiration for some of the beautiful, bulkier lasts.
Norwegian Rain + T-Michael AW14 Pitti Preview
It’s only fitting that the first entry on the upcoming series of collection previews, features one of the most impressive shown at the venue: Norwegian Rain. This time around the Bergen-based label showcased its outstanding creations alongside those of bespoke tailor T-Michael, one half of NR. Simply put, not only are these guys some of the nicest and most stylish individuals around, they’re also delivering one of the most unique concepts in the current menswear scene.
Within the superb ambience created for visitors, one could find exclusive installations and items evoking their universe of collaborations, as well as the core outerwear pieces from the upcoming line. Along with new colorways, fabrics and textures on trademark pieces, the biggest reveal were the new models on the “Arctic Line” which features shearling collars and linings, that utterly transform the lightweight parkas into full-geared versions able to withstand up to -20ºC. Besides the obvious aesthetic element this brings to the table, it also conveys a more versatile approach to the originals, allowing several combinations that ultimately make the most of your investment.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Gant by Michael Bastian Pre Spring 2014 Lookbook
Levi’s Made & Crafted SS14 Pitti Preview
Although coming across new brands and getting in touch with the latest developments is definitely exciting, the warm, welcoming feeling of reuniting with an old time classic is special in its own way. For me, no matter how many alternatives fill the market, Levi’s will forever remain the ultimate choice for time-tested, long-lasting denim. Its premium Made & Crafted line is a reminder that the iconic label is not only here to stay, but also dealing cards when it comes to delivering refreshing and updated takes on classics.
Eleventy SS14 Pitti Preview
After following Mr. Baldassari’s label for quite some time, I must say expectations were high for Eleventy’s upcoming collection: thankfully, they were not only met, but actually surpassed. Presenting a well balanced collection, Eleventy once again managed to deliver all-round pieces, perfect for polished everyday attires, with a unique panache. I guess the most appealing element for me is its core “casual meets sophisticated” essence, a trademark element that makes it easy for you to resonate with particular pieces, no matter which style you favor the most.
This time around, everything revolved around lightweight, comfortable fabrics, able to adjust to different body shapes. Tailored sports coats, hoodies and gilets mixed with washed jeans and chinos, exuded a contemporary urban feel achieved through unique layering; supple perforated suede bomber jackets made for perfect outerwear alternatives, while a wide range of accessories and shoes complemented the whole offering.
Ph: Beyond Fabric