Out Clubbing
If asked to, I believe I wouldn’t be able to pick just one favourite shirt among those I own, but this custom contrast club collar would definitely make it on to the top 5. There’s a certain unique elegance (and versatility) surrounding that rounded collar: although some might argue it begs to be paired with fancy neckwear, be it a tie or a bow, it can easily overlook them for a differentiated buttoned up sans tie look. Moreover, if you’ve been wanting to sport that brand new collar pin, there are few shirts out there as suited for it as this one. One aspect to keep in mind though, is that this model is supposed to be worn buttoned…much like double breasted jackets.
I’ve been sporting it often recently and similar models in different colors and patterns have already made their way into my wishlist. As with every shirt, fabric plays a very important role regarding the suitability and formality attributed to it: a finer fabric will reward you with an exotic dress shirt, whereas oxford cloth makes them the perfect match for that special pair of worn out jeans. This look combines several striking items, such as the checked navy peacoat, houndstooth elbow patched cardigan and the shirt itself, but they all blend in together as none is overwhelming. The emphasis is on the small details: hues darken as you approach the outer layers (light blue, grey, navy), tones are complementing among pieces (tie and patches) and the silver tie bar just adds that extra flare…
Checked navy wool peacoat by Paul Smith, grey wool/cashmere cardigan with houndstooth elbow patches by Annapurna 5+1, custom made light blue contrast club collar shirt by Gentleman, Levi’s 511 slim fitting jeans (tailored), Portuguese boots, vintage brown knit tie, vintage brown braided leather belt, silver tie bar by Tie Rack.
Rain attire: the lightweight parka
Although Spring is officially upon us, we’re still a few months aways from continuous sunny days. Even with the temperatures rising, Spring showers are well reported phenomena which call for specific garments.
Apart from the ever reliable umbrella, this time of the year is perfect for lightweight parkas or cotton trenches, whose purpose is more focused on keeping you dry rather than warm. One of the best things about these items is how easily they adapt to your outfit: as the final layers, you can effortlessly pair them with just a shirt and tie, a full suit, a blazer or a heavy knit cardigan. Given how light and thin they tend to be, they make for a great layering alternative to top your usual attire. Just bear in mind at the time of purchase, that the size and fit should reflect your needs, that is, if you’re planning to wear a blazer underneath, you might want to size up.
When it comes to this type of outerwear, I tend to favour pieces on the longer side, sitting at the hips, due to the slim silhouette and extra rain protection (for added emphasis on the silhouette, look for belted options). On this note, this waxed olive cotton parka makes for the ultimate rain attire for those pesky rainy days…Love how the shades of tan on the drawstrings, scarf and boots perfectly complement each other.
PS: I’ve been wanting to include my dog in a post for some time now, and the chance presented when she gladly entered the picture as we were shooting.
Olive waxed cotton parka by Our Legacy (M), brown v-neck cashmere/silk sweater by Massimo Dutti (M), checked shirt by Boglioli (hidden-40), jeans by Levi’s 511 slim (32 tailored), waxed leather Portuguese boots (44), vintage braided belt, camel scarf by Burberry and glasses by Prada.
The Peacoat
As those cold winter days are upon us, a simple sports coat may not be enough to provide you with the warmth you long for…
It’s that time of the year when everyone is geared up in their winter outfits, covered head to toe, striving for a comfortable feel. Without wanting to take credit from all the useful winter accessories such as thermals, scarves or gloves, I do believe that the most crucial item in your wardrobe, come winter time, is the coat. This is the ultimate barrier between your shivering body and nature’s harsh elements - you don’t want to be caught off guard by freezing cold wind while wearing lousy outerwear…
Among all the existing and fashion endorsed alternatives for the season (toggle coats, quilted jackets, chesterfields, etc.), I’ve got to admit I have a thing for the Peacoat. A coat that keeps you warm in the worst climates while evoking a Corto Maltese aura? Count me in…
Originally sported by 19th century european sailors, this navy statement piece owes its name to the type of fabric used, the “pijjeker”, which later evolved to p-cloth and ultimately to p-coat. Made from thick heavy wools, peacoats are easily identified by the following traits:
- Wide lapels;
- Double breasted cut;
- Large buttons (metallic, plastic or wooden), usually sporting a naval motif;
- Large flap pockets;
The traditional colors are navy or black, although variations of color and design have been emerging in several collections, from high end designers to H&M or Zara. Also, if you favour authenticity, you might want to check thrift stores or other who stock navy surplus, for the real deal.
One of the things I like most about it (besides the robust construction), is how great it looks and adapts to different outfits, whether you dress it up or down: the gap between lapels is just enough for your tie and button down oxford to pop out, perfectly framed. Moreover, this is one of the few pieces which not only allows you to pull off the popped collar look, but is actually taken to a whole new level once you do.
Here are some pics of me and my brother sporting our own vintage Peacoats. Remember the Portuguese boots? Check out my brother’s and how different they look from mine…
Vintage Peacoat, navy dress shirt by Moschino, burgundy pullover by DKNY, white jeans by Massimo Dutti, belt and gloves by Casa das Peles, socks by Gant and brogues by Henry James.
Vintage Peacoat, chambray shirt by Massimo Dutti, grey cardigan by Lyle & Scott, jeans by Levi’s (511 slim), vintage belt and traditional Portuguese boots (Bota Carneira)
