Por Vocação treats us to an inside scoop on Paul Smith’s Milan showroom and some statement pieces for the British designer’s SS13 collection. Loving those rose and lips prints in rich red…
Source: porvocacao.com
Q:Hi there, Truly an inspiring blog you have, thanks a lot! I have a question about my search for the perfect summer jacket; I'm searching for a jacket that is versatile - so I want to wear it with a denimshirt or simple t-shirt but also with an more dressed way (shirt + cardigan + tie). And because it's for the summer, I prefer it to be colorful (light red for example). Hopefully you can help me with some suggestions. Thanks again :) Kind regards, Andy
Hi Andy, thanks for the support!! =) The search for the perfect summer jacket may pose somewhat of a challenge, especially when you throw light red to the mix. For me, it should be unstructured, fully unlined or just sleeve lined and made from a lightweight fabric such as cotton or linen. Several brands offer these features although with different price tags, but since you didn’t mention a budget, I’ll leave with some alternatives to cover the whole spectrum:
- Boglioli
- Barena
- Beams + (the closest to light red)
- YMC
- Zara
Hope this has been of help!
Best,
Miguel Vieira
Even though it’s over and everyone’s moving on to Milan and Paris, this pic just sums up Pitti’s essence:
The Sartorialist, Mr. Mort, Guerre, Nam and Tommy Ton in one frame…
Source: porvocacao.com
Band of Outsiders DB Camel Coat
Perfect example of the Camel x Burgundy combo..
There’s not much more you can ask of a coat: Peak Lapel, double breasted, belted, elbow patched and snug fitting.
A D.I.Y. guide
I’ve got to admit that I have a thing for leather jackets. I don’t know if it’s the feel of the leather itself or the whole “bad boy” conotation, but the truth is I fancy them. A trim fitting leather jacket, (running one size smaller to give it that sleek appearance) is a great alternative to have in your closet. However, I must say I prefer vintage leather as it has that worn-in, distressed look and has lost that overly bright sheen, trademark of brand new pieces (I’m aware that many of you might think I’ve lost it right now). The thing about vintage is that more often than not you’ll fall in love with pieces which are either too big or too small, leaving a bitter taste in your mouth. If the jacket’s too small there’s not much you can do, but if it runs a tad big, there are a few alterations you can have done at your tailor (talk to him to know which). As I’m always on the look for a “new” vintage leather jacket, I was excited to hear that one of my favourite stores was shooting a D.Y.I. (do it yourself) guide for shortening sleeves of so called jackets. The guys over at Por Vocação spent a whole day processing the alterations on one of their items and photographed the whole thing for our delight. I would advise against trying this by yourself on a new leather jacket (by the way they have some great ones instore), but if you score a vintage one at a ridiculous price it might be worth the test. Here’s the whole process with pics and captions, courtesy of Por Vocação:

The original jacket.

Measuring the new sleeve length.

Getting rid of the seams.

Unstitching the zipper.

Open sleeve and zipper on the side.

Cutting the lining after careful measuring.

Reattaching the lining back to the cuff.

Checking the seams’ resistance.


Marking and cutting the leather.

A preview of the final look.

Checking stiches’ size and distance on the reverse side.

The newly attached cuff.

Redoing the backstitch.

Hammering the stitches to flatten them.

Done!








