MAN 1924 SS15 Pitti Preview
By now, the outstanding label run by my friends Carlos, Jorge and Olga needs little to no introduction. From Spain to the world, they have been able to set MAN 1924 as a menswear reference for good taste and classic tailoring with a twist. Meeting with them and going over their creations is always pleasure: besides the amazing garments, they present what is arguably the best styling and layering at Pitti.
The perfectly balanced mix of casual and polished elements, brilliant pattern and texture combinations and superb use of accessories, results in an eye-catching collection that appeals to most. To top it off, a brief conversation is enough to understand their passion and the authenticity poured into each creation, as they embody this very personal style and philosophy reminiscent of the Spanish tradition.
For SS15, the collection delivers a classic color palette focused on pastels, with the occasional navy and blue adding some contrast. Linen and lightweight cottons are abundant, as are special waxed and washed finishings spread throughout blazers, parkas and safari jackets. Their interpretation of the safari, featuring a super soft washed cotton fabric and details such as epaulets, belt and deep pockets was probably one of my favourite pieces on display at the fair.
Sciamàt SS15 Pitti Preview
On the brink of sartorial perfection…that’s my interpretation of Nicola and Valentino Ricci’s creations. The only real reason I don’t call them embodied perfection, is due to my inherent way of being that compels me to believe that there’s always room for improvement, however little it may be. The truth is that apart from slight taste subtleties, that might lead you to question whether those outstanding peak lapels should be 1cm narrower or wider, or what particular color stripe you wished to see in that windowpane fabric, there’s really nothing else you can beg to differ when it comes to Sciamàt.
Showcasing a fully handmade ready-to-wear line, the cut, fit and proportion were spot on. From the impeccable artisanal construction and true attention to the slightest detail, up to the choice of fabrics and color palette, each garment on display rightfully deserved a place in every sartorial aficionado’s wardrobe (myself very much included). When you consider that besides these offerings they are able to provide you with some of the finest bespoke creations out there, there’s not much more you could ask for..
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Wooster + Lardini Collection
One of the most hyped events taking place during the latest edition of Pitti Uomo, was undoubtedly the debut of the Wooster + Lardini collaboration. Held on the amazing terrace of the Pitti Immagine Foundation, the presentation gathered some of the most renowned bloggers, magazines and fashion personalities, all thriving with anticipation to witness first hand what Wooster had in store for them.
After a brief presentation from the Lardini family, expressing their desire to deliver an updated, innovative take on the sartorial universe they are renowned for, Wooster quickly broke the ice with his trademark sense of humor. Blending his creative vision with the quality craftsmanship of the Italian brand, the collection was brought to life in a matter of weeks through a fluid brainstorm of concepts that were brilliantly executed.
Making the most of Lardini’s exceptional tailoring skills and research in manufacturing processes and garment treatments, the collaboration is exactly what one would expect from Wooster’s influence - a rugged, irreverent take on the sartorial universe, slightly hinting at imperfection. From color block and prints, up to tailored shorts and crinkled effects achieved through “unfinished” garment dye techniques, this refreshing approach definitely sets a new standard for Lardini. The subdued color palette of navy, grey, army green and khaki, further reinforces the balance of the classic/modern dichotomy.