The different production stages in the life of a S.E.H. Kelly Peacoat
Rome: last day
The sunny last day provided me the chance to sport the newly purchased Borsalino I had been wanting to get my hands on for ages. Deciding on the color definitely posed a challenge due to the amount of different hues of grey, green and blue available, just mind blowing…Ultimately, and as it was my very first fedora I ended up going with the good old navy version. Its darker shade provided the right amount of contrast when paired with the camel peacoat, pink candy stripe oxford and summery white jeans.
Most of the times I dress by heart, instead of overly thinking about mixing and matching I throw on pieces that go well together, and that was just the case here - the fun part about this look is the number of distinct patterns working in harmony: vertical stripes on the shirt, horizontal stripes on the belt, polka dots on the tie and paisley on the scarf. However, due the different shades and scales (most of them are on accessories), none is overpowering when you look at the whole picture.
Details: camel peacoat by Our Legacy, pink candy stripe oxford button down shirt by Our Legacy, white slim fit jeans by Massimo Dutti, navy fedora by Borsalino, aviators by Ray-Ban, navy polka dot silk knit tie by Carolina Herrera, burgundy paisley scarf by Zara and striped ribbon belt by Purificacion Garcia.
Shot @ Piazza di Spagna, Rome
The safe choice when going for colorful bottoms is to tone the top part down, making use of neutrals. However, going against this and pairing it with yet another strong shade like this wine v-neck can step the whole look up a notch. Love how the ever faithful navy peacoat initially just shows the bowtie and then opens up to reveal a burst of color…
Peacoat by Paul Smith, denim shirt by Our Legacy, v-neck sweater by DKNY, jeans by Zara, waxed derby shoes by Buttero, silk bowtie (vintage), braided leather belt (vintage), watch by Baume & Mercier and bracelet by street vendor.
Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira
Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira
Photography: Rita Lino
Photography: Rita Lino
Urban Menswear Myths #4
When it comes to outerwear, choosing among the myriad of available options may be intimidating at times. Apart from the so called “traditional” models which we all should have in our closets, there are alternatives for everyone out there: heavyweight versions for those who like to sport nothing more than a shirt under it, or lighter ones for the layering adepts. No matter which group you fall into, you need to get your basics covered, starting with classics in neutral shades such as navy or black. I’m a supporter of color, but when it comes to investing considerable amounts (outerwear doesn’t come cheap), you want to have a few all rounders. Nonetheless, that doesn’t mean that neutrals are the only way to go, especially if basics are no longer an issue and you’re looking for a new addition to spice things up.
To those of you on the next level, aiming to step away from the outerwear comfort zone, there are two paths: go for bold design or experience with color/pattern. As I’m not the biggest fan of overly designed items, I’ll address the colorway. The first thing to bear in mind is that the visual impact is proportional to the size of the garment itself, which colorwise, poses a challenge as few other pieces pack such a punch as jackets/coats. So, the choice of color is crucial: a safe bet on not so usual colors would be camel or hunter green, whereas if you really want to stand out, neon like shades such as yellow, orange or royal blue are the way to go.
If you throw pattern into the mix, the task of finding the perfect piece becomes all the more difficult, but the outcome may be that more exciting. Achieving a balance between both is the key to success, but requires a keen eye, so when in doubt go with solid colored fabrics. Experiencing with bold outerwear is not for the faint of heart, but when you get the hang of it you’ll have a hard time going back to classics.
As those cold winter days are upon us, a simple sports coat may not be enough to provide you with the warmth you long for…
It’s that time of the year when everyone is geared up in their winter outfits, covered head to toe, striving for a comfortable feel. Without wanting to take credit from all the useful winter accessories such as thermals, scarves or gloves, I do believe that the most crucial item in your wardrobe, come winter time, is the coat. This is the ultimate barrier between your shivering body and nature’s harsh elements - you don’t want to be caught off guard by freezing cold wind while wearing lousy outerwear…
Among all the existing and fashion endorsed alternatives for the season (toggle coats, quilted jackets, chesterfields, etc.), I’ve got to admit I have a thing for the Peacoat. A coat that keeps you warm in the worst climates while evoking a Corto Maltese aura? Count me in…
Originally sported by 19th century european sailors, this navy statement piece owes its name to the type of fabric used, the “pijjeker”, which later evolved to p-cloth and ultimately to p-coat. Made from thick heavy wools, peacoats are easily identified by the following traits:
- Wide lapels;
- Double breasted cut;
- Large buttons (metallic, plastic or wooden), usually sporting a naval motif;
- Large flap pockets;
The traditional colors are navy or black, although variations of color and design have been emerging in several collections, from high end designers to H&M or Zara. Also, if you favour authenticity, you might want to check thrift stores or other who stock navy surplus, for the real deal.
One of the things I like most about it (besides the robust construction), is how great it looks and adapts to different outfits, whether you dress it up or down: the gap between lapels is just enough for your tie and button down oxford to pop out, perfectly framed. Moreover, this is one of the few pieces which not only allows you to pull off the popped collar look, but is actually taken to a whole new level once you do.
Here are some pics of me and my brother sporting our own vintage Peacoats. Remember the Portuguese boots? Check out my brother’s and how different they look from mine…
Vintage Peacoat, navy dress shirt by Moschino, burgundy pullover by DKNY, white jeans by Massimo Dutti, belt and gloves by Casa das Peles, socks by Gant and brogues by Henry James.
Vintage Peacoat, chambray shirt by Massimo Dutti, grey cardigan by Lyle & Scott, jeans by Levi’s (511 slim), vintage belt and traditional Portuguese boots (Bota Carneira)
Shop outside the box
Fashion has always been influenced by a variety of sources: designers, on their creative process, draw inspiration from whatever strikes them at a particular time. Some of the most iconic pieces and trends are captured from specific alternative contexts and then translated into fashion.
Two of the major current topics of the inspirational field are related to the Armed Forces (specifically the Army and Navy). This year was marked by naval and military motifs in all kinds of garments: striped t-shirts, peacoats, military jackets and shirts or combat boots. Despite the fact that some of the most renowned designers out there are dishing out their own versions of these items (some ridiculously overpriced), the truth is that they were originally produced for purposes other than fashion. So, the question is, why not go for the originals?
On my strolls around town I’ve found several hunting supplies stores filled with outstanding products such as vests, sweaters, pants, waxed jackets and boots. Besides familiar quality labels such as Barbour and Belstaff, you’ll be able to find amazing items from lesser known brands at great prices. The best part about it? These are garments that are meant to last and withstand harsh environmental conditions, so quality of construction and durability is assured. As far as naval pieces, you can try to score vintage items from thrift stores (peacoats are a regular find) or search for official manufacturers of navy uniforms such as Schott N.Y.C..
I’ve recently purchased a Barbour Eskdale Waistcoat at a hunting supplies store for a fraction of the price and I’ve got my eyes set on a great sweater. Here are some pics.