Fighting off cold with color: found this rich dark green toggle coat during a Summer sale and have been waiting to sport it ever since. Love everything about it: fit, deep pockets, plaid inner lining and that color… perfect match for most neutrals but off the chart when paired with brighter shades as orange.
Dark green hooded toggle coat by Gentleman, orange v-neck by Purificacion Garcia, white dress shirt by Paul Smith, jeans by H&M and boots by Buttero.
Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira
Photography: Rita Lino
This is one of my all time outerwear favourites: the Pea Vest. Reminiscent of the iconic peacoat with the double breasted closure and wide lapel, and throwing in the mix a puffed vest model it’s been one of the most heavily rotated pieces on my wardrobe as of lately. A perfect match for the houndstooth elbow patches on the cardigan.
Wool pea vest by Tonello, cashmere houndstooth elbow patched cardigan by Annapurna 5+1, striped dress shirt by Paul Smith, selvedge denim by Our Legacy, tasseled loafers by Lottusse and watch by Rolex.
Styling and model: Miguel Vieira
Photography: Rita Lino
A stellar influence
It seems that outer space and the vastness of the universe are becoming an inspiration for designers this year. N.A.S.A. inspired materials and galactic prints have been making an appearance on several runways, mostly as statement pieces with visually strong patterns and fabrics.
The latter are the foundation of this futuristic look: high tech fabrics in silvery and greyish tones, with special treatments and finishing to give them that extra edge and space vibe. Although the global aesthetic is, at the very least, unusual, I’m excited to see the results of incorporating these items into more traditional attires. On this note, Sir Paul Smith has once again outdone himself…here are some of his looks for the year.
Bold technical fabrics
Star printed trousers
Galaxy map prints
A flowering trend…
Although I’ve mentioned florals before, I still hadn’t had the chance to fully address this much hyped pattern. Every other day, some new garment or accessory makes its way into the spotlight simply by sporting this nature inspired print. The sheer fact that its popularity is growing, while struggling with social, cultural and gender-based ill-formed preconceptions, is not only proof that men are more conscious about their style but that this pattern is a resilient one. As with all bold prints, the chances of getting it wrong are proportional to the risks you’re willing to take.
Whereas concepts such as scale, fit, proportion and color matching should be ever present on your attire, when going for more ambitious combinations they become a necessity. For me, the most crucial aspect to successfully pull it off is coordinating the scale of the pattern with that of the item itself, bearing in mind that larger items are harder to work with. When in doubt start by incorporating small notes such as scarves, pocket squares or ties and slowly work your way up the chain.
This shirt by Paul Smith was the result of an impulsive purchase a few years back, which remained stored away in my wardrobe for quite a while…now, it’s one of my Summer statement pieces. Besides the outstanding color scheme, I love its versatility which allows for interesting casual looks as well as adding a twist to more classic ones. Here I went for a relaxed, put together look aimed at toning things down by making use of pieces in complementing solid colors.
Organic cotton floral print dress shirt by Paul Smith, purple organic cotton crewneck tee by H&M, slate creased trousers by Boglioli, brown crepe sole boat shoes by Buttero, watch by Gucci, silver string by Goti (hidden).
Por Vocação AW11 Looks
Por Vocação just released their looks for AW11, featuring items from the likes of Paul Smith, Martin Margiela, Our Legacy, Acne and Band of Outsiders, along with a healthy dose of irony as the shoot took place on a sunny beach scenario.
There’s no denying that our mood is strongly influenced by the weather, be it in a positive or negative manner. Usually, when waking up to a sun-shiny day, you brighten up, put a smile on your face and feel an urge to dress accordingly: no wonder color makes an appearance this time of the year…
This look is all about celebrating those days through color and bold pieces. The thing I love the most about it, besides the color scheme and refined, yet relaxed feel, is the fact that it blends several statement items in a balanced, sophisticated outcome. When going for louder items such as this multicolored stripe shirt, I usually advise caution and toning the rest of the outfit down a notch; however, if you’re willing to risk it, adding yet another strong piece to the mix may elevate a look to the next level.
Although the idea of mixing stripes and polka dots may seem daunting at first, the matching tones and differentiated scale of the patterns work perfectly together. To smooth things down, a two button navy unstructured sportscoat with a twist: the peak lapel, adding an Italian vibe. Light, fitted and presenting brilliant details such as the satin applications on the flap pockets, this has definitely become one of my favourites. Rolled up white jeans and suede espadrilles further emphasize the summery, relaxed feel.
Two button unstructured navy cotton/silk peak lapel sportscoat by Adam Kimmel (S - tailored), multicolored dress shirt by Paul Smith (M), white slim fit jeans by Massimo Dutti (31x32), suede espadrilles by n.d.c., polka dot silk tie by Vicri, glasses by Prada.
If asked to, I believe I wouldn’t be able to pick just one favourite shirt among those I own, but this custom contrast club collar would definitely make it on to the top 5. There’s a certain unique elegance (and versatility) surrounding that rounded collar: although some might argue it begs to be paired with fancy neckwear, be it a tie or a bow, it can easily overlook them for a differentiated buttoned up sans tie look. Moreover, if you’ve been wanting to sport that brand new collar pin, there are few shirts out there as suited for it as this one. One aspect to keep in mind though, is that this model is supposed to be worn buttoned…much like double breasted jackets.
I’ve been sporting it often recently and similar models in different colors and patterns have already made their way into my wishlist. As with every shirt, fabric plays a very important role regarding the suitability and formality attributed to it: a finer fabric will reward you with an exotic dress shirt, whereas oxford cloth makes them the perfect match for that special pair of worn out jeans. This look combines several striking items, such as the checked navy peacoat, houndstooth elbow patched cardigan and the shirt itself, but they all blend in together as none is overwhelming. The emphasis is on the small details: hues darken as you approach the outer layers (light blue, grey, navy), tones are complementing among pieces (tie and patches) and the silver tie bar just adds that extra flare…
Checked navy wool peacoat by Paul Smith, grey wool/cashmere cardigan with houndstooth elbow patches by Annapurna 5+1, custom made light blue contrast club collar shirt by Gentleman, Levi’s 511 slim fitting jeans (tailored), Portuguese boots, vintage brown knit tie, vintage brown braided leather belt, silver tie bar by Tie Rack.