The different production stages in the life of a S.E.H. Kelly Peacoat
The ever shifting fashion world is one that draws inspiration from everything around it: art, culture, design, media, past, present or even future. As Sir Paul Smith so eloquently put it: “Inspiration can be found everywhere, if you can’t look again”. Work, mountain, navy and armywear, all have experienced trend bursts and become not only subjects for themed collections but also menswear staples in their own right. However, few have been so hyped as camouflage in recent seasons.
Although camo and military inspired garments have paved their way into street style and designer stores in the past (generally in a tasteless fashion), its recent resurgence on runways and high-end labels has turned this stealthy pattern into one of the most coveted and current around. Even if not solely responsible for it, I have to hand it over to the Woost God for elevating camo to new standards through his unique use of variations on the theme: never has camouflage experienced such love as now.
While at Pitti, one needed only take a look around to feel a part of an exquisitely dapper war game where everyone, if not everything, sported the motif: even resting area tents were made of camouflage canvas. And judging by both AW12 and SS13 collections, the truth is, love it or hate it, camo is here to stay…
Stubbs and Wootton
Dries Van Noten SS13
A Kind of Guise “Holiday Hooray” Shirt Collection
Spring Check in
It seems lately everything is about patterns: stripes, florals, surf inspired motifs or even wilder prints such as the ones from Gitman and Our Legacy latest drops, there’s a hype about which one is trendiest and what garments to sport them in. Although I’m a sucker for many of this season’s offerings I have to admit that checks still do, and have done so for me ever since their popularity boom about 3/4 years ago. There’s just something about a well balanced checked patterned that makes it both timeless and up to date, granting it a place in everyone’s wardrobe for years to come. This shirt by Our Legacy was love at first sight and has become the only short sleeve version in my wardrobe so far; the brilliant color scheme makes it perfect with denim and khakis while its casual feel allows to sport it over a tee. The polka dot pocket square on the trucker jacket opposes its relaxed nature and adds yet another pattern to the mix…
Details: denim trucker jacket by Levi’s, checked short sleeve shirt by Our Legacy, v-neck tee by Levi’s, Ken cotton chinos by Acne, polka dot pocket square by The Tie Rack, vintage braided leather belt, bracelet by street vendor and watch by Rolex
Model and Styling: Miguel Vieira
Photography: Rita Lino
History of Paisley
"The most widely accepted theory is that the pattern (then known as “Boteh”) as a whole is a stylized floral or botanical motif mixed with the outline of a cypress tree — commonplace in the Middle East, and widely recognized as a symbol of life and eternity. The Boteh was used not only in textiles, but also in jewelry, art, landscaping, and architecture. Its prevalence spread across the Middle East to other southern and central Asian nations, further muddling its own exact origins. It wasn’t until around the 1600s when British traders and spice merchants hailing from the East India Company brought the Boteh back to their own native countries, where it enjoyed very popular Western demand (due in part to beliefs that the pattern was an Asian charm used to ward off demons) — so much so, that traders were often unable to import enough to meet demand. It was that outpaced demand that prompted first French, then Scottish weavers to copy the pattern and produce the fabric on their own native looms. In the early 1800s, the first town to devote its output exclusively to the production of boteh-inspired patterns, was the Scottish town of Paisley, who used Jacquard looms to produce designs in a broad spectrum of colors and patterns that no longer needed to rely on originals for copying. The name stuck."