The Seersucker Suit
Although this year Summer has been shy, at least here in Porto, I didn’t want to let the opportunity go by to highlight one of the most iconic and timeless summer fabrics: Seersucker. Originating from India and brought to Europe back in the 18th century, seersucker features a unique puckered texture that translated to a crinkled effect fabric. This effect is permanent and achieved by uneven amounts of tension on different warp yarns. Most commonly found in a blue and white striped pattern (as the one depicted here), the actual range of shades is much wider, including pink, green, yellow, red, etc. The one constant element is that one of the stripes is always white.
After a recent visit to Gentleman, one of my go-to local stores whose garments I’ve highlighted several times in the past, we decided to go with a double breasted version of the classic seersucker suit. When bespoke is not a mandatory requirement, Made-to-Measure is the perfect alternative…The semi-industrial line provided by Gentleman allowed me to tweak just enough details to my liking and end up with a “unique” suit. This is a perfect example to dispel the myth that a MTM suit can’t portray special features and outstanding quality: from additional inner pockets for cigars, to lapel width, grey mother-of-pearl buttons or invisible inner lining slots on the patch pockets to conceal what you’re carrying, everything was customized to my taste.
Here I went with a more traditional, prep-inspired aesthetic, playing with white and blue for added visual contrast, portrayed by the club tie, fedora, pocket square and navy suede loafers.
Details: MTM double breasted seersucker suit and club tie by Gentleman Tailors, Giza 87 slim fit tab collar shirt by Emmett London, blue suede loafers by Buttero, fedora by Borsalino, shades by Linda Farrow Luxe and pocket square by Add-On.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Engineered Garments Print Fedora Collection
Introducing: Lobo Marinho
The brainchild of my good friend André Marinho, Lobo Marinho is an upcoming Portuguese brand aimed at delivering craftsmanship and passion to all those with a dandy feel. The family run business brings together three generations, with all pocket squares incorporating the lifetime experience and traditional techniques used by his grandmother. Featuring a variety of patterns and fabrics, each square is sewn and rolled by hand with unique passion and dedication. I was happy to be involved in the project shooting the pics for the website and Boris made the cut as well.
Today I get the chance to review what was undoubtedly one of my favourite pieces shown during last Pitti: MAN 1924's interpretation of the Safari Jacket. Originally the go-to choice of British Military stationed in Africa, the Safari Jacket or Sahariana served the purposed of functionality, with added mobility and comfort meeting the perfect fabric weight to withstand lower temperatures during the evening.
Its distinctive features are reminiscent of the military universe: four or more expandable flap pockets, belted waist and epaulettes. The popularity of the Safari Jacket followed the post-war period, when army surplus was easily found and its unique aesthetic and relaxed nature quickly became a favourite within menswear enthusiasts, namely workwear aficionados. However, in recent years, several brands and designers have re-discovered the underlying beauty of the garment, incorporating a variety of updated versions suitable for more casual or polished attires.
This version from MAN 1924 is the perfect example. Featuring a beautiful army green herringbone cotton/linen fabric, the perfect looser fit makes it a layering essential both for summer days or the upcoming transitional season. Generous pockets allow to carry all everyday essentials, the adjustable waist belt provides a flattering silhouette even when worn unbuttoned and the small details such as horn buttons and epaulettes just add that extra bit of flare. Here I went for a more casual approach, layering it over a houndstooth vest, spread collar shirt and paisley scarf, along with white denim and loafers. Although this look might translate the core essence of the jacket, I cant wait to pair it with more formal attires.
Details: Sahariana by MAN 1924, houndstooth vest by Purificacion Garcia, MTM spread collar shirt, white denim and paisley scarf by Massimo Dutti, grained leather penny loafers by Bexley, aviators by Ray-Ban, vintage bracelets.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
Neighborhood AW14 Lookbook
The Japanese label continues to surprise with a refined take on western/workwear garments. The outstanding denim on denim combinations are but a small example.