Journal Standard AW14 Lookbook
J.S. has slowly become one of my favourite Japanese labels out there. The ongoing flow of well constructed, quality menswear staples, is combined with fit, attention to detail and of course, the trademark technical twist Japanese brands are known for.
The Seersucker Suit
Although this year Summer has been shy, at least here in Porto, I didn’t want to let the opportunity go by to highlight one of the most iconic and timeless summer fabrics: Seersucker. Originating from India and brought to Europe back in the 18th century, seersucker features a unique puckered texture that translated to a crinkled effect fabric. This effect is permanent and achieved by uneven amounts of tension on different warp yarns. Most commonly found in a blue and white striped pattern (as the one depicted here), the actual range of shades is much wider, including pink, green, yellow, red, etc. The one constant element is that one of the stripes is always white.
After a recent visit to Gentleman, one of my go-to local stores whose garments I’ve highlighted several times in the past, we decided to go with a double breasted version of the classic seersucker suit. When bespoke is not a mandatory requirement, Made-to-Measure is the perfect alternative…The semi-industrial line provided by Gentleman allowed me to tweak just enough details to my liking and end up with a “unique” suit. This is a perfect example to dispel the myth that a MTM suit can’t portray special features and outstanding quality: from additional inner pockets for cigars, to lapel width, grey mother-of-pearl buttons or invisible inner lining slots on the patch pockets to conceal what you’re carrying, everything was customized to my taste.
Here I went with a more traditional, prep-inspired aesthetic, playing with white and blue for added visual contrast, portrayed by the club tie, fedora, pocket square and navy suede loafers.
Details: MTM double breasted seersucker suit and club tie by Gentleman Tailors, Giza 87 slim fit tab collar shirt by Emmett London, blue suede loafers by Buttero, fedora by Borsalino, shades by Linda Farrow Luxe and pocket square by Add-On.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Introducing: Lobo Marinho
The brainchild of my good friend André Marinho, Lobo Marinho is an upcoming Portuguese brand aimed at delivering craftsmanship and passion to all those with a dandy feel. The family run business brings together three generations, with all pocket squares incorporating the lifetime experience and traditional techniques used by his grandmother. Featuring a variety of patterns and fabrics, each square is sewn and rolled by hand with unique passion and dedication. I was happy to be involved in the project shooting the pics for the website and Boris made the cut as well.
Neighborhood AW14 Lookbook
The Japanese label continues to surprise with a refined take on western/workwear garments. The outstanding denim on denim combinations are but a small example.
Pal Zileri AW14 Lookbook
Visvim AW14 Lookbook
A Summer Essential
A quintessential attire during Pitti Uomo, suits are a constant presence even under the scorching heat Firenze is known for in Summer. Among the myriad of outstanding bespoke works of art, there were some in particular that constantly turned heads: the Solaros. Originally believed to reflect sunlight with a cooling effect, Solaro fabric has been traditionally embraced as a Summer staple. In reality, however, Solaro is a mid-weight wool or cotton fabric, that ranks far behind other lightweight alternatives such as linen. So, what makes it so desirable?
Its main feature is the unique construction which incorporates a contrasting color weft on the underside. Usually presented in herringbone or twill weaves, this distinct feature has earned Solaro universal praise due to the trademark aesthetic and visual appeal. The contrast weft shines through with an iridiscent effect that changes color according to the intensity and orientation of the light source; needless to say this effect is at its best during sunny days.
Although the most common combination is beige with red weft, Solaro is available in a variety of shades including navy, green or brown. Despite not being an alternative for everyone, I must admit I was absolutely taken by it, so much so, that I ordered a cut from Caccioppoli Napoli for a bespoke suit which is now in the making (more on that soon).
Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Beyond Fabric
(above: lighter shades of Solaro, including a more subtle version with silk)
(above: Solaro trousers)