Spring Trends: Go To Hell Bottoms
In whichever way it may come, color is mandatory when the sun begins to shine. This time around, it seems the infamous Go To Hell (to put it simple, unexpected eye-popping colored items) are back in full strength. From formal slacks to relaxed jeans or chinos, everyone’s dishing their own favourite versions to brighten up the urban landscape.
Bright yellow, green, red or coral are all part of the game, as are embroidered motifs. It appears nothing has been left out the equation for this season’s bottoms, especially if you add the assortment of washes, patched alternatives or even paint splattered versions. With so many offerings, the trick is deciding which ones are worth investing in: like a kid in a candy store, chances are you’ll want to grab one of each to keep your options open and cover the whole chromatic spectrum.
However, instead of ending up with a rainbow like wardrobe, go through your collection and narrow the choice to missing or complementing shades. Go ahead and do some styling of your own, set aside some pieces and try to picture what would look good with them. After all, there’s no use in buying items you’ll hardly sport as they don’t match your other garments. Also, bear in mind that bottoms deliver much more of a visual impact than say, for instance, a sweater or tee. When in doubt, go for safer options but don’t be afraid to experiment with the whole color palette prior to deciding.
Top to bottom: 1 - Acne; 2 - Zara; 3 - Park & Bond; 4 - Rugby Ralph Lauren; 5 - Paul Smith.
Playing the part…Wooster’s a shark
Big fish, small sea.
An outtake from New York this past September.
Spring must haves: colorful denim
The coming of Spring is a call for color… As brighter, sunnier days become more often, so does our urge to lighten up the mood by throwing on bolder pieces in lively shades. For me, one of the items that just screams Spring is a pair of colorful bottoms, be them chinos or slim fitting denim.
Although at first they might seem a bit too much, calling upon a “Go to Hell” attitude, these make for a perfect addition to any wardrobe, providing that much sought diversity and uniqueness to your look. The thing about color is that most men are reluctant to experience with it as it’s much safer (and easier) to stick with the basic palette of blues and black.
I say go for it, have some fun with your outfits: if you feel that trousers are too big a step to take, begin with small accessory pieces such as scarves or pocket squares and slowly move on to more expressive items. Doing so will let the concept sink in, allowing you to build your confidence and color matching skills.
I’ve been on the lookout for some bright alternatives and I came across these slim fitting jeans by Zara. Besides presenting a wide variety of shades, the fit is great as is the price tag…at €25,95 you couldn’t ask for more, especially since you might not want to splurge on a pair of jeans you won’t be using everyday. I can already picture them rolled up, paired with loafers “sans” socks, or simply cropped high above the ankle…
Photos from Zara’s official website.
How to pull off a bow tie
In the last couple of years we’ve been experiencing a comeback of all things sartorial. Tailors and the whole bespoking/made to measure concept have become popular once again (kudos for those who have always embraced it), as have some forgotten trends and accessories. One such accessory is the bow tie: this piece of neckwear is easily one of the most overlooked and underrated when it comes to menswear. Putting my love for it aside, I must admit that the bow tie is not for the faint of heart. When you wear one, you walk around with more than a simple item; you carry all its historical and social background. The origins of the bow tie are uncertain, dating back to original appearance of the Cravat worn by Croatian Soldiers in the 17th century, as a means to fasten their shirts. Later on, it was introduced to the French upper classes and became a mainstream fashion item during the 18th and 19th centuries, mainly worn by successful men and dandies. As such, the bow tie may come across as affected or even arrogant, a way to show that you are above other peers and don’t really care about what they think; on the other hand, some may find you ridiculous, childish or eccentric. So, as you see, pulling it off is no easy task…
I do agree with one aspect of those perceptions which is not to give much importance to third parties’ opinions: you like it? want to wear it? Then by all means do. The thing is, as I’ve mentioned in an earlier post, that an individual sense of style may clash with social conventions as we live in a society, so bear in mind that you are prone to disapproving looks and remarks. Ignoring them however, is easier said than done, especially if you live in fashion-repressed cities (it’s definitely easier to sport a bow tie in Milan or NYC than anywhere in Portugal).
That being said, I fully encourage you to wear one if you fancy it and here are a few tips to make it easier to pull off:
- Break it down: since the bow tie alone will make you all put together, I would advise against “over dressing”. Give it a more relaxed feel by pairing it with casual pieces, like slim fitting jeans, loafers or sneakers and an oxford shirt;
Casual done right - boat shoes, rolled up jeans, white shirt, patterned bow and a yellow rain slicker (photo from Unabashedly Prep).
- Pattern: for starters, try to find a balance between the shirt and the bow. If you decide to go with a striped or checked shirt, choose a solid colored bow and vice versa, pair patterned bows with solid shirts. “Advanced users” can have fun by trying to mix different patterns;
Above: 1- keeping it simple: white shirt by Paul Smith + checked bow tie from Coisas d’Homem; 2 - taking it up a notch: striped shirt with contrasting collar and patterned bow tie (photo from Pierrepont Hicks).
- Fabric: satin bow ties are more formal than their cotton/wool counterparts. The latter are easier to pair with your everyday attire;
Above: Cotton gives it a more relaxed feel - both items from Coisas d’Homem.
- Confidence: is key to make the whole look work. You’re wearing an iconic Go to Hell item, so why not embrace the attitude? (more on Go to Hell in a future post);
Nick Wooster (Photo by Tommy Ton for GQ).
- Smile: have fun when wearing a bow tie, after all it’s a joyful item.
Brad Goresky (photo from Papermag).
One other thing to consider is the type of bow tie: clip on or self tie? Real prepsters and bow aficionados will tell you that there is no option but the self tie version: this is true to some extent as it will enable you to add a personal touch and nonchalance to the knot. For beginners, the clip on is much more practical and has been supported recently by designers such as Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg. If you go for the self tie version, expect a steep learning curve while getting the hang of how to tie it, but to make things easier here’s a video from David Hart:
