Yuketen AW14 Pitti Preview
Mr. Yuki Matsuda’s label has now become a mandatory visit whenever I’m at Pitti. As a footwear aficionado, it’s hard not to drool when faced with Yuketen’s extensive collection, comprised of trademark designs that are constantly elevated to new levels, be it through subtle aesthetical tweaks or core construction techniques.
Although some particular models may be somewhat over the top for my personal taste, the common denominator for all things Yuketen is superb quality and craftsmanship. Starting with skilled artisans who resort to traditional construction techniques, up to the high-end materials and attention to detail, every single item transpires authenticity and love for the product (this goes for both shoes and accessories).
Some of my personal favourites included a beautiful derby shoe with ripple soles, available in supple leather and suede, along with an updated version of the Maine Guide Boot with silver Concho and hand-painted beads.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Oliver Sweeney SS14
Buttero AW14 Pitti Preview
Another visit to the Buttero stand was enough to remind me just why I love these guys so much…and also to start putting some savings aside. This time around I had the honor of meeting the head of the family, the godfather himself: Mr. Mauro Sani, founder of Buttero and father of the current generation running the business (Luca, Massimiliano and Claudio). I was also fortunate to bump into my friends from Por Vocação, who helped set the stand, which besides a massive wooden rocking-horse, featured small windows into Tuscan landscapes, working as miniature showrooms for each model.
A refreshing array of new models filled the stand, including two-toned brogues mixing contrasting elements such as leather and suede, as well as new sneakers, derbies and boots, always with that trademark Buttero feel. Old favourites such as the low and hi-top Taninos are back in new colorways and materials, namely a uniquely finished suede, while paraboots were an inspiration for some of the beautiful, bulkier lasts.
Junya Watanabe Contrast Chelsea Boots
For the second entry on the Holidays’ collaboration with Carlos Santos, I took it downtown to showcase a seasonal, yet essential shade on every man’s footwear collection: burgundy. A beautiful variation on the traditional use of black and brown, this rich color portrays a unique regal feel and elegance that sets it apart from the rest. Seamlessly blending into a variety of ensembles, burgundy shows an uncanny versatility, covering a wide range of models including boots, loafers, oxfords and brogues. On this occasion I went with the latter…
This interpretation of the timeless brogue features outstanding perforated detailing on the uppers, highlighted by the sheer quality of the leather and the richness of the wine-like shade. The elongated last with slightly round toe adds to the overall elegance of the shoe, enhanced by the leather soles, insoles and lining as well as the contrasting grey laces. I must say that along with derbies, brogues are probably the shoes I wear the most, be it with suits, slacks or just a pair of jeans. Here I kept the core look quite simple, pairing them with charcoal wool pants, white oxford button down and a brownish tweed aviator jacket. Accessories such as the vintage scarf and suspenders portraying hints of burgundy, add visual interest and help the whole outfit stand out.
Details: tweed avio jacket by CAMO, oxford button down by Our Legacy, mto worsted 120’s wool slacks by Gentleman, brogues by Carlos Santos, shades by Ray-Ban, vintage scarf and braces, and houndstooth socks by Pé de Meia.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves