Suitsupply Jort “Urban Safari” Collection
Mr. Hare AW14 Pitti Preview
Although the next edition of Pitti draws near, there’s still enough time to check some of last edition’s highlights. One of my mandatory stops at the fair is Mr. Hare: outstanding footwear and an amazing staff just do it for me. It’s always a pleasure talking to Mr. Marc Hare about the latest collection and just embracing his passion as he goes over ever little detail.
Revolving around the iconic trademark black the brand is known for, it’s virtually impossible not to find a pair you instantly fall in love with. Each model exudes sheer luxury, resorting to high-end materials and craftsmanship techniques, to portray a wide selection ranging from sneakers and moccasins to oxfords, brogues, boots and slippers. A perfectly balanced mix of casual and classic, this collection sees some new designs come to life such as the “invisible stitch” oxfords and an array of accessories with contrasting high shine leather accents.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Grenson x END “Triple Welt” Collection
Mackintosh debuts its first full-on menswear collection for SS14. A Japan exclusive, Mackintosh Philosophy delivers some pretty solid offerings inspired by an old school British aesthetic with some preppy elements in the mix.
Onfront SS14 Neckwear Collection
Store Visit: Osklen, Miami
I’ve been keeping a close eye on Osklen since 2007, back when I lived in Florianópolis (Brazil) and had a chance to really get in touch with the brand. Although my personal style has come a long way since then, evolving and adapting to a more mature perspective, all of the pieces I purchased at the time are still present in my wardrobe. As such, I was pleasantly surprised to come across the brand’s Lincoln Road store during my recent stay in Miami.
Founded by Oskar Metsavaht, a gifted creative director working in a myriad of areas such as fashion, design, media and social-environmental projects, the brand carries a distinctive trademark aesthetic and universe which embodies all of the above. As a worldwide renowned patron of ecology and sustainability, Oskar stands at the helm of the “new luxury” movement, focusing on how top tier fashion labels can be run in a sustainable, environmental-friendly way. Osklen is, as expected, a paramount player in this field.
As a matter of fact, it’s a serious player in many others as well, alas without the rightful praise it deserves…In my opinion, Osklen is one of the most underrated luxury labels out there, namely due to a stagnant misperception that associates it solely with beach and surf wear. Although there’s an undeniable influence of its Brazilian roots in each collection, beachwear is but a part of a more complex, luxurious universe. So much so, that in 2011 it was awarded the title of “Emerging Luxury Brand of the Year”.
A closer look at the current SS14 collection, for instance, reveals a wide spectrum of exquisite offerings including suits, blazers, shirts, knitwear and the much sought sneakers and loafers. This would be the minimum requirement for any collection, if it weren’t for the fact that every single piece stands out on its own, be it through design and details or the high-quality fabrics and techniques used in its manufacturing. Garment-dye and prints are applied to 100% natural fibers such as soft “brushed” organic cotton and linen, while unconventional materials such as salmon skin make their way into sneakers…all with outstanding quality. That being said, next time you step into an Osklen store consider carefully browsing the entire collection instead of the swim shorts alone.
Miguel Amaral Vieira
Officine Generale SS14 Collection
Camoshita United Arrows AW14 Pitti Preview
Yasuto Kamoshita is, simply put, one of the most stylish individuals around. With a background in architecture and a refined aesthetic sense, heavily influenced by the strong Ivy League movement lived in Japan during the 1960s, his creations embody a modern Japanese dandyism. As creative director of United Arrows, this unique blend of Japanese and American styles results in outstanding collections, marked by beautifully tailored garments and exquisite use of fabrics, patterns and textures.
The AW14 collection maintains the line of thought, delivering a modern take on classic essentials through small tweaks and attention to detail. While the Ivy League and European tailoring references are still at its core, the Japanese will to evolve and elevate things to a new level is visible in each piece. An extensive (and for some, unusual) color palette is paired with a variety of textures, print and patterns, portraying classic elegance with unique panache: bold stripes, diamonds and polka dots come to life in topcoats, suits, blazers and shirts, adding a refreshing twist on these menswear essentials. All perfectly complemented by an array of luxurious accessories such as the paisley silk scarfs of which I’m an unconditional fan.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Vans x KIROIC SS14 Collection
Another outstanding collaboration merging Rorschach’s tests with traditional Chinese ink-painting techniques, this limited edition run of 250 pairs is exclusive to China.
CAMO AW14 Pitti Preview
Inspired by the city lights, Stefano Ughetti managed to deliver yet another impressive collection, marked by the influence of urban colors on both new and trademark models. A strong emphasis was given to knitwear, presented in a variety of patterns, textures and shades, while making the best of luxurious fabrics and construction. A shout out to the beautiful speckled effects which embody the sight of an urban environment by night.
Suiting is always one of the most appealing offerings from the Italian label, which manages to deliver a tailored take on casual models through its fitted blazers and low crotch trousers: this time around, beautiful tweed and heavy wool was used to portray a unique wintery feel.
Ph: Beyond Fabric