Beyond Fabric

Month

July 2010

23 posts

Don't sweat it

Ever wondered why your shirts get those yellow stains in the armpit area? 

If you check the label on your deodorant, it will likely read some type of aluminum based ingredient, usually aluminum chlorohydrate. The pesky stains are actually the result of a chemical reaction between your sweat and the aluminum contained in the deodorant. These type of stains are incredibly hard to remove (even with stain removers) and on colored shirts they can cause a permanent discoloration, resembling the effect of bleach. 

The best way to protect your clothing is to act preemptively, which means buying an aluminum-free deodorant. Don’t be fooled by those “Invisible Dry” products found at the supermarket, if you look at the label you will still find aluminum listed.

Look strictly for products that read “aluminum free”, you’ll be able to find them at your local pharmacy from brands such as La Roche Posay, Vichy or Roc. Another option is to try other professional apothecary brands like Malin+Goetz.

  

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(Photos from the brands’ official websites)

Be aware though, that despite causing stains, aluminum is the most effective ingredient against perspiration and body odor: therefore, when going “sans aluminum” you might have to try a few products in order to find the best match for your body chemistry. 

PS: If you have an item with these kind of stains, try gently rubbing the area with an active oxygen based product and leave it on for a few minutes, prior to washing. 

Jul 30, 2010
LINKS À LA MODE: THE IFB WEEKLY ROUNDUP 7/29

I’m really excited that my post on online shopping was featured in this week’s Links à La Mode by the Independent Fashion Bloggers website.

Looking back, moving forward?

Edited by: Florrie Clarke of Intrinsically Florrie.

This week’s links bound across time as we go from the first incarnations of the handbag, to both the glamour and reality of the mid-20th Century and the modern phenomenon of online shopping. And when, in all this, will women be happy with their bodies? Debenhams may now be using unretouched images alongside the photoshopped, but the Daily Mail and the UK’s new equalities minister have decreed a new, and for a lot of us unattainable, body shape for us to aim for.

Links à la Mode: July 29th
    • Amanda Lee: How to Do More With the Clothes You Have [Instead of Buying More]
    • An Early-Life Crisis from Academia to Art: My 26th design project on my quest to teach myself to sew and reach 52 in a year! Also includes my own sleeve sewing tutorial and this week’s project stats :
    • Beyond Fabric: A thought on online shopping - is it worth building your wardrobe online?
    • Blah Blah Becky: LOVING iconic British brand Whistles’ AW10/FW10 lookbook
    • Brooklyn Posh: starting to love thyself : the health/weight debate
    • Beautifully Invisible: 10 curvy women - past and present - who are the epitome of sexy.
    • Dramatis Personae: Ch-Cha-Chain- Coveting & Craving Chain Jewelry
    • Fashion Limbo: 90s nostalgia after a party on a boat. I go through some memorable teenage-hood highlights
    • Independent Fashion Bloggers: Fair Compensation Manifesto
    • Intrinsically Florrie: Looking to the French pâtisserie Ladurée for design inspiration.
    • Make the World a Prettier Place: Are women tired of distressed jeans and messy buns? It is time to leave this trend behind and dress up - even for everyday life!
    • Malvestida: The Headress day… a day that’s all about sharing creativity!
    • Mariel’s Castle: Experimenting with the newest nail trend
    • Oranges and Apple: On glamorising vintage life
    • Retro Chick: Friday Frock Love: Poppy Valentine
    • Scene On the Street: NYC: Mod Scientist - Scene On the Street
    • The Coveted: American Living $250 Gift Card Giveaway
    • The Demoiselles: UK department store shuns retouching…why can’t we live in the UK?
    • The Embellished Life: Do you have a hankering for handbags? Enlighten yourself with the heroic History of Handbags on The Embellished Life!
    • The Fashion Police: Why size should never be a fashion statement
    • What 2 Wear Where: Mad Men Mania: effortlessly polished Betty Draper
    Jul 30, 2010
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    Jul 29, 20101 note
    Store Info: Por Vocação

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    You might have noticed that I’ve mentioned Por Vocação in several of my previous posts. There’s a reason for it (besides being a personal favourite)…

    Located in Porto’s main avenue, Boavista, near the iconic Casa da Música, a black overhang with the store’s name marks the entrance. Upon arrival, you will be greeted by one of the (if not the) best shopping window you’ve ever laid eyes on. Whichever installation they have on display is sure to blow you away:

    Moving Window from wwwPORVOCACAOcom on Vimeo.

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    Once you ring the doorbell, the store’s trademark scent invites you in: an inebriating fig essence liberated by a carefully concealed device, ensures the brand remains a well kept secret… And so your experience begins…

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    (The masked scent diffuser)

    What’s in store for you is more than the usual garments: think of it as a haven for the modern man…from the finest clothes, shoes and accessories, to exquisite fragances, grooming products and scented candles (after all your place is a reflection of yourself). The name “Por Vocação” itself is a hint on what to expect: a carefully thought play on words with “Provocação”, which tries to express how their calling for fashion will entice and tease you (to buy that is). 

    On the back of the store, clients are allowed access to the “backstage”: here lies the storage room, office, and (taking it to a whole new level), two photo studios - one for clothing alone and the other for shoots with models. 

    I’m digressing…the main focus here is clothing. Expect to find the latest creations from the likes of Sir Paul Smith, Neil Barrett, Maison Martin Margiela, Raf Simmons, Boglioli, Aquarama, Acne, Buttero, Raparo..and their latest addition Adam Kimmel.

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    You can check their website at www.porvocacao.com and keep an eye out for the upcoming online store. 

    Jul 28, 20104 notes
    #Store Info
    Embodying Art

    Tattoos have been, for many years, associated with certain stereotypes commonly regarded as “negative”: bikers, sailors, outlaws, convicts, etc. Come to think of it, they still hold that same negative connotation for many people, despite their ever growing popularity. 

    However, tattoos’ origins are ancient (dating as old as 4000 BC, found in mummies) and far more noble, usually associated with religious rituals and beliefs among tribes. 

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    The Maori are one of the tribes with a strong relation to body art. Image from wikipedia.org)

    In the last ten or so years, we have seen a greater exposure and somewhat acceptance of tattoos, since they can be seen everywhere: soccer players, singers, actors, celebrities… Yet, the truth remains that the more conservative part of our society will always look down on those who decide to add art to their bodies. Thus, what happens is that most people are affraid of social/professional repercussions and opt to hide their artwork (you would be surprised by the number of successful, highly reputed people who sport tattoos in hiding).

    I just want to state how refreshing it feels to see people embracing their body art on a daily basis and incorporating it into the overall look:

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    Photos by The Sartorialist

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    Photos by Tommy Ton

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    Philip Crangi - Photo by Ben Watts

    We should all be inspired by the sense of individuality, expression and confidence shown by the people in these photos. I don’t usually post pictures of women, but these helped me make my point besides looking great.

    Jul 26, 20102 notes
    Play
    Jul 26, 20101 note
    Hey, just found your site while reading prepidemic.com and love it so far! Keep up the great work!

    Hi! Thanks for the support I really appreciate it! Keep an eye out for future posts! 

    Jul 25, 2010
    For a cool Summer

    During the warmer months we all feel the urge to wear fresh, breathable clothing, preferably made of linen, seersucker or cotton. However, depending on your local weather and the daily thermal amplitude, your summer wardrobe should consist of more than shorts, tees and short sleeve shirts. We’ve all experienced those chilly summer evenings which catch us off-guard in our beachy outfits, making our teeth chatter. The challenge in finding a suitable piece for those situations is the somewhat mild temperature: your winter jackets and sweaters will prove to be too much. 

    Besides looking for items made of light weight fabrics, you should look for versatility: after all, you want to make the most out of your money. Try finding a transitional piece that will also be suitable for early fall (cotton is great since it’s an all year fabric). 

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    (Top to bottom: cotton knit sweater by Our Legacy and silk/cotton cardigan by Paul Smith. Photos from www.ourlegacy.se and www.paulsmith.co.uk)

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    (A windbreaker may keep you warm and protect you against unexpected showers. Photo by The Sartorialist)

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    Two great options from Aquarama made of cotton and light weight nylon. Photos from www.porvocacao.com) 

    Jul 25, 20101 note
    Work Appropriate

    Clothes, besides serving the basic purpose of protecting you against the environment, and your private parts from the ever watching critical eye of society (Janet Jackson incident is in order), are a means of expression. Well, at least to a certain extent since that same society we’re a part of, dictates and defines rules, protocols and standards for what’s commonly accepted.

    Thus, we may find ourselves in uncomfortable situations due to an inadequate outfit or a concept of style unshared by those around you. Although I’m a firm believer that one should stay true to oneself, we have to realize and accept that there’s a time and place for everything.

    This is especially true once you enter the job market. Depending on your area of expertise, the company you work for, the country you’re in, etc., the appropriate dress code may vary a great deal.

    For those of you who work in creative areas, chances are you’re not required to dress in a specific manner; also, if you must wear an uniform, it pretty much removes the issue from the equation. However, this post is aimed for those who must present themselves in a dressier fashion, usually in a suit. We have all seen professionals who aren’t dressed accordingly (be it men or women), unaware that it may push customers away or lead to issues with your superiors (I’ve seen it happen before).

    Bear in mind that I’m in no way trying to tell you what to dress: I’m just trying to make a point and list a few pointers that may help avoid those situations:

    - Avoid showing too much skin : your shirt should have the top two buttons undone, no more;

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    (Unless you’re a celebrity or rock star (and even then), keep your hairy chest to yourself. Photo from www.eonline.com)

    - Stay away from excessively bright colored pieces : I love color and playing with it in the overall look, but do it discreetly, there’s no need to be the center of attention specially for all the wrong reasons. A pocket square is a great alternative way to add color and personality to your look, try it;

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    (Neon pants may be a bit too much for the office. Photo by Tommy Ton)

    - Never wear white sport socks : I mean..NEVER!! As the name implies these are meant for sports only. Pair them with dress shoes and your credibility is gone for good…seriously now, you’ll look like you’ve injured both feet and they’ve been cast in plaster.

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    (This image speaks for itself… Photo from individualism.co.uk)

    - Trade in the tee : If a more informal occasion arises, such as casual friday or a company rendezvous, wear a polo shirt instead of a tee. It will keep you cool and relaxed but looking more put together. Look for a slim fitting model;

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    (Notice the length and fit of the sleeve. Photo by Tommy Ton)

    - Lose the squared toe shoes : These are outdated and add a bulky feeling to your look. Go for a sleek shoe with a round or slightly pointy toe.

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    (Don’t try this at home, or anywhere for that matter. Photo from www.thestyleblogger.com)

    - Don’t over accessorize: this is mostly seen on women but men can go wrong here as well. A watch and the eventual ring/bracelet are acceptable, but try not to throw everything on at once: the visual impact will be greater with one well thought item;

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    (Despite being one of the actual few who can pull it off, even he gets it wrong sometimes; you don’t want too much going on in your look. Photo from www.interweb.in) 

    - Wear your pants in your waist: Wearing your jeans a bit lower may be fine, but suit pants should fit you flawlessly so wear them where they’re meant to. And don’t you dare flashing your underwear around the office;

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    (You’re not 14 anymore. Photo from www.guardian.co.uk)


    Jul 23, 20108 notes
    Craving...Bell & Ross BR-S Ceramic

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    Despite being all up for the retro inspired movement that has been making it’s way into people’s wrists (digital gold cased Casios being my personal favourite, specially if you score the model with incorporated keyboard), I believe a man should have a few distinctive horological pieces in his inventory. Look for swiss made watches from long established manufacturers, with a heritage of quality craftsmanship. I am well aware of the price tags on most of these pieces but consider it a lifetime item, a legacy to be passed on generation to generation (most of mine were previously my father’s which adds a sentimental value). 

    Fortunately, there are a few great watches that won’t leave you on the brink of bankruptcy (assuming you have not won the lottery), such as this model from Bell & Ross. You probably heard of Bell & Ross as a manufacturer of sturdy watches for professional uses (think of astronauts, pilots, divers, etc.) and instinctively envision their most famous model the Instrument BR, inspired by aircraft panels’ indicators. With numerous models available in the Instrument BR Collection, the BR-S Ceramic presents itself as a beautiful and affordable option. It is also available in different colors and with other straps. 

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    (All photos from www.watchsites.net)

    Jul 22, 2010
    Store Info: Coisas d'Homem

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    Miguel Bombarda is easily one of Porto’s most famous streets, mainly due to the numerous art galleries which populate it. Fashion is often associated and inspired by art, so it’s no surprise that alternative clothing stores made their way into the surroundings. Nowadays, the whole area transpires of a young, trendy vibe which appeals to a wide public off all ages.

    Within this context, Ricardo Rodrigues and Carlos Carneiro brought to life their love for menswear and accessories in the form of Coisas d’Homem. Located in CC Bombarda, the store presents a unique identity composed of a mix of retro and edgy design elements.

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    The concept is focused mostly on men accessories, aiming to fill the gap between the offer available to men and women. Hence, you’ll be able to find bowties, ties, scarves, braces, vests, hats, bracelets, rings, bags, spectacles…you name it. Most of these items are their own creations and only one of each is available, meaning you won’t stumble upon someone wearing the same. There are also pieces from selected brands such as Ben Sherman, Merc and Troop London, among others. 

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    Accessories can make or break an outfit, so head to Coisas d’Homem and start building or improving your collection! Don’t forget to sign for a client account to take full advantage of the benefits provided.

    Visit their website here. 

    Jul 21, 20104 notes
    #Store Info
    Tumblr Tuesday!

    Time to choose your favourite blogs!  Click to recommend Beyond Fabric!

    Jul 20, 2010
    A thought on...online shopping

    The Internet has changed our lives in many ways, providing easy access to information, people and items…As expected, online commerce has grown to astonishing proportions enabling consumers to buy products from the comfort of their living room. For better or worse, fashion industry has long established itself as a major player when it comes to online shopping. 

    So…is it worth updating your wardrobe online?

    As most things in life there are pros and cons to online shopping…I believe your virtual shopping experience may be influenced (either way) by a multitude of factors. Based on my personal experience, here is a list of things to bear in mind when buying online:

    - Personal style : If you embrace a fitted and trim silhouette, it will be a daunting task to find an item that looks like it was made for you, without trying it on. It’s true that most stores have a sizing chart available, but chances are you don’t know your measures and even if you do, fit is everything and those charts are often innacurate. If you’re not obssessed with a perfect fit and can deal with an item that may look slightly off, online may be an option;

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    This kind of perfection cannot be achieved “online” (Photo by The Sartorialist)

    - Experience : what do you look for when buying a new garment? The item itself or the overall experience of going shopping? I, for one, love going to my favourite store, taking my time browsing through all the pieces, talking to the owner to know more about particular items and listening to the advice they give according to your client profile…if you usually rush shopping because you only need to supress a need for a certain item, order away;

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    Take pleasure in shopping (Photo from www.prepidemic.com)

    - Type of item : depending on what you’re looking for, online may be more or less adequate. A suit is a piece you should get at a store, by trying out different models and having them tailored to your body and liking. In fact, I would say this applies for most items but for some jackets, tees and shirts buying online may serve you well; 

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    A suit should make you feel like a million bucks, have it tailored to your body type (Photo from www.boston.com)

    - First purchase or not : since you cannot try on your garments before buying, online shopping works best when you shop for a brand or item you’re familiar with. Doing so will allow you to know how it fits and the correct size, ensuring satisfaction with the final product. On the other hand, an unknown brand may have a completely different sizing and fitting from what you would expect;

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    Buying a similar item from a familiar brand makes things easier (Photo from photobucket.com)

    - Where you’re buying : buying from auction sites such as Ebay may put you through some ordeals. It’s true that there are amazing deals to be had but you may also end up with an item that doesn’t match the description or never arrives in the first place (happened to me a couple of times). Fortunately, Paypal ensures a satisfying customer service and money back warranty. If you purchase from an official online store these issues are hard to come across;

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    - Shipping Costs and Returns : be aware that shipping costs can represent considerable sums for your order (shipping from US to Portugal can easily cost 50€ depending on the order). In fact, there are few countries where shipping and return costs are covered by the shops and not the client. If for some reason you need to return your item, the costs will be supported by you. 

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    (Logo from http://fedex.com)

    That being said here are some websites you should check:

    www.asos.com

    www.tresbienshop.net

    www.thecorner.com

    www.herringshoes.co.uk

    www.ebay.com

    Jul 20, 20104 notes
    "Booking" your vacations

    Looking for a stylish read during your summer holidays? I’ll leave you with two suggestions:

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    The Sartorialist - based on the famous homonymous blog by Scott Schumann, this book is a (small) compilation of the outstanding photos he has been sharing for the last five years. A must have for all fashion and style lovers, the book presents photographs of both famous and anonymous people from all over the world, whose personal style and identity caught Scott’s eye. It portrays nowadays globalized society through the universal language of fashion, from mutual influences to those dictacted by specific ethnical or cultural traditions.

    I can easily imagine my great-great-grandchildren going through the book and having a laugh about “style back then…”, much like we do with the 80’s.

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    Take Ivy (reedition by Powerhouse Books) - originally published in Japan in 1965, this book was a joint project of four Japanese style enthusiasts who captured the essence of American Ivy League students’ dress code and lifestyle. Interesting enough, the book was responsible for introducing prep style to Japanese students living in the Ginza district of Tokyo.  

    Considered by many as one of the most important references on American prep style, it has earned the status of a highly sought collector’s item. 

    You can get them at Amazon for about 14€ each.

    Jul 18, 20101 note
    Learn from...Chuck Bass

    Gossip Girl has become a widespread sucess due to the combination of beautiful young people, high-end fashion and the sexually charged glamour lifestyle of it’s characters. Taking Manhattan’s Upper East Side as background, the show portrays New York’s elite by following their everyday events. Needless to say the two main female characters spend a fair amount of their time shopping in stores most of us wouldn’t dream of…

    Still, this post is focused on the most iconic character of show: Chuck Bass (played by Ed Westwick). The show’s stylist, Eric Daman, has done an outstanding job at choosing the outfits for this narcissistic, egotistical and snobbish 19-year-old heir of one of NY’s greatest fortunes. Besides betting on some bold statement pieces, you can’t help to notice the attention given to accessories: ties, ascots, bowties, braces, pocket squares, hats, scarves…you name it:

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    All photos from www.cwtv.com

    I am aware that most of these looks are overwhelming for a daily use, mainly because most of the accessories shown are associated with dandyism and elistism. However, you can be inspired to take (calculated) risks and have fun with your outfits, by giving them a splash of color and extra flare. Another important aspect to retain is his attitude and posture: if you imagine most guys trying to pull off those looks, chances are they would look ridiculous… Chuck, on the other hand, makes it seem natural by transpiring self-confidence and the right amount of cockyness. (keep an eye out for an upcoming post on posture and body language).

    To know more about some of the looks and where to get them check this great post over at Frenchlittlething: http://frenchlittlething.blogspot.com/2010/02/la-chuck-bass.html

    Jul 17, 2010
    Just in @ Coisas d'Homem

    Coisas d’Homem has just received these great bags from Troop London. Be sure to drop by their store at CC Bombarda and check their facebook profile: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=193117&id=185998495740#!/pages/Coisas-dHomem/185998495740 


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    Jul 16, 2010
    The Essential...Shoes

    Ahh…Shoes…one of the most mystical items of any ensemble…women love them and men….well….they do too. Shoes have a strange aura that compels people to buy and collect them, whether they need them or not. Before, when you thought about shoes you might envision women fighting over a pair which is 50% off at a retailer. Nowadays, besides upgrading that vision to Sarah Jessica Parker in Manolo’s, you might have noticed that men are paying ever growing attention to the shoes they wear. 

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    These double monk straps are all over the Internet, photo from The Sartorialist.

    It’s a fact that gentleman and smart dressed men have long ago understood the importance of a sharply buffed pair of handmade leather shoes, but now that knowledge is being slowly passed on to young men. I must admit that until recently, I too didn’t truly appreciate the art and craftsmanship that goes into making a pair of high-end men shoes. All that changes when you acquire you first pair..and watch this video (800€ price tag..rings a bell?):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dawVeqQh2h8

    You have to look at high-end shoes as an investment: they WILL cost you but if you care for them they can last decades. When looking for high quality shoes you can take the safe route: choose a model from luxury brands such as Tod’s, Church, Crockett and Jones, John Lobb, Alden, etc; or opt for a lesser known brand that provides quality nonetheless (some spanish brands come to mind: Barrats or Lotusse). 

    The guys over at Prepidemic have come up with an amazing guide on what to look for when buying quality shoes so be sure to check it: 

    www.prepidemic.com/archives/prepidemicguides-dressshoes/

    Now that you have all the info you need on how to choose proper shoes, I’ll leave with a few suggestion on which to purchase:

    - The loafer: guys, make no mistake this is not a formal shoe and is not meant to be paired with a suit as we see it all the time. The loafer is a casual shoe, wear it with slacks, chinos or jeans;

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    Photo from bassshoes.harborghb.com

    - The Brogue/Wingtip: a formal shoe originally meant to wear with suits but nowadays everyone’s wearing them with slim fit jeans;

     

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    - The Oxford Shoe: another dress shoe that can be worn with a suit or jeans;

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    Photo from www.paulsmith.co.uk

    - The Monk Strap: more formal than the oxford, can be found with a single or double monk strap;  

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    Photo from www.aldenshop.com

    - The Driving Shoe: another casual alternative that has been around for ages;

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    Photo from www.carshoe.com

    Jul 15, 20104 notes
    Iceland in Summer?

    If you have been looking for a plaid shirt for those blistering hot summer days, Our Legacy has listened to your prayers. Their Iceland checked button down in linen is sure to keep you cool (literally), and at 30% off, now it’s the time to grab one.

    Roll up those sleeves and enjoy Summer!

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    You can get it here: http://www.ourlegacy.se/store/product/category-shirting/placket-bd-iceland-check-linen.

    Order one size down because they fit big, I’m usually an M but my oxfords are S and fit perfectly. 

    Sorry about the double post on Our Legacy but I just saw this and since it’s on sale…

    Jul 15, 2010
    Stamp of Approval

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    If you follow menswear blogs or sites, chances are that you have come upon the name Our Legacy. This swedish brand (surprise anyone?) is quickly becoming one the “must haves” of the season, thanks to their unique take on timeless classics. Instead of going for crazy-over-the-top designs, Our Legacy bet is on impecable quality and fit. I recently purchased a couple of oxford button downs, and take my word for it…once you try them on, these swedes will earn a soft spot in your heart.

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    As it has been happening with many other high-end brands, all products are manufactured right here in Portugal, so besides purchasing great clothes you’ll be supporting Portuguese craftsmanship. 

    Also, be sure to check other pieces such as the knotted cotton blazer, chinos, shorts and shirts: http://www.porvocacao.com/porvocacao/2010/05/.

    You can find Our Legacy at Por Vocação and their official website: www.ourlegacy.se (they ship to Portugal). 

    For all of the above, Our Legacy receives Beyond Fabric’s Stamp of Approval:

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    (Our Legacy logo from www.ourlegacy.se)

    Jul 14, 2010
    #Stamp of Approval
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    Jul 13, 2010
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