Beyond Fabric

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As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, this year has seen a growing acceptance of the no socks-no break look.

Everywhere you look, people have been wearing rolled up jeans/chinos or cuffed suit pants well above the ankle line, showing off their bare skin and military shined footwear. Until a while back, when temperatures were high, it seemed like the perfect look to pull off…However, as the cold winter days are upon us, one will certainly feel the need to protect his exposed ankles from the freezing wind and rain (I for one, do).

So, if like me, you’re struggling to conciliate both ensemble and comfort, you know there’s no way around it: your socks will be out there for the world to see. As such, you might consider investing in a fine collection of assorted socks.

When doing so, you should keep in mind that depending on color, texture, fabric and pattern, socks may bear different levels of formality and suitability to outfits. Even in a time when the matching rules of old no longer apply, this is something than can make or break a look.

If you’re going for a more formal attire, stick to thin cotton socks in classic solid colors such as charcoal, navy, black, etc. Other than that, why not have some fun? Consider them a part of your overall look, one you can tweak and incorporate accordingly, either by pairing with other items or making it pop out. 

Navy heavy knit cardigan by Massimo Dutti, hunter green oxford button down by Ralph Lauren, jeans by Levi’s (511 Slim), brown tasseled loafers by Lottusse, tartan scarf by Ralph Lauren, argyle socks by H&M and watch by Rolex.

Interesting alternatives are not always easy to find, but here are a few to get you going:

Paul Smith @ Por Vocação

Happy Socks

Ralph Lauren (Photos from Asos)

Here are the latest pieces from the Tokihito Yoshida VS Barbour collaboration: these are some amazing limited edition items. Pre-order is available now from Number Six London.

I’ve recently been interviewed by Christine from Un-Stitched, for an article on Papercut Magazine, on the evolution of fashion blogging. The piece focused on the historical context of blogging and how it matured into nowadays definition. It also featured interviews with 3 bloggers: Ashe Mischief from Dramatis Personae, Samantha from The Column of Samantha Tyler and myself. 

Check out the scans!

RECOMMEND BEYOND FABRIC FOR THE DIRECTORY!

Thank you so much !!

If you’ve been following me from the start, you know I have a thing for custom made/made to measure items. Luckily for me, Portugal has a strong textile industry, especially here in the north, and is well known for its specialized workforce in the area (it’s not a coincidence that major players such as Paul Smith or Our Legacy have their items produced here). 

I was pleased to find out that Porto still maintains its tradition in what regards the tailoring business, with several stores and ateliers still being frequently visited by loyal customers. Apart from the traditional bespoke suit (usually the most sought after item at tailors), you should broaden your horizons as what you can have made to your liking. One of the best items, in terms of quality/price ratio, is shirts. Chances are, you’ve already considered this while browsing retailers for that specific shirt you envisioned: the fit is wrong, the pattern isn’t quite what you wished for and likewise for detailing and fabric. What if you could have exactly what you pictured, and more (since it would be unique and designed for your body), for the same or a fraction of the price of ready-to-wear options? Sounds appealing right?

I’ve been wanting to get one of a kind shirts for a while, something you won’t easily find on major retailers, and my wishes were granted by a local store with more than a century of bespoke/tailoring history. I payed them a visit and ordered a club collar oxford shirt in light blue, with contrasting white collar and cuffs (it will definitely make an impression). After carefully going through the multitude of available fabrics, I made my choice as regards the tone of blue and weight of the oxford cloth: I was aiming for something in between a dress shirt and your usual oxford button down.

I then tried on one of their slim fit shirts in order to evaluate the fit, and luckily enough the Medium size was spot on: usually, the shirt would be crafted according to my measurements, but in this case, they just had to adapt their own model to my requests.

A week after, my shirt was ready:

I’m a sucker for high-end gadgets and, in my opinion, Apple makes some of the best available. Although I prefer mine in mint condition, this collaboration between Michael Tompert and photographer Paul Fairchild, resulted in amazing pictures of some of Apple’s most successful products - wasted. 

All pics from Fubiz.net

I was really excited to see Beyond Fabric mentioned in this week’s “Única” magazine, a complement to the weekly newspaper “Expresso”. The article was about the impact bloggers have on the fashion industry and how this type of media is dictating trends and making them accessible to virtually everyone. It focused on Tavi from Style Rookie and went on to talk about other bloggers such as Bryanboy and The Sartorialist. At the end of the piece there was a small list of recommended blogs and guess what? Beyond Fabric made the list! 

Great news! I’ve been featured in this week’s Links à La Mode from the IFB website!! Also, be sure to check out all the great posts below.

Edited by: Marie Denee of The Curvy Fashionista

As fashion bloggers, we are often the ones sharing and giving advice about fashion. But what happens when fashion turns the table on us and teaches us a lesson or two? From learning how to be thrifty, coping through a crisis, or the economy, these fashion bloggers took a cue from fashion’s lessons and turned them into a delicious and delectable read- and I have rounded these up for you…

• Almost Sober Mag: Pull It, Push It and Come Back When You Proved It: Direct experience from a newly established independent publisher: a week as a fashion editor.
• Beyond Fabric: On the relation between Body Language and Fashion Photography
• Dedicated Follower: To Write Love on Her Arms - I join the movement and write love on my arms in honor of a lost friend.
• Exiled from the City: Throughout the past few years, there has been a paradigm shift in consumer variables and the function of fashion.
• For those about to Shop: Society must take some responsibility for the dangerous obsession to be thin.
• Freeda Style: “Appropriate Attire” Are ALL the old rules of fashion dead? Or should some survive?
• Haute World: Grace Kelly Exhibition: How a royal style icon can teach us a lesson in thriftiness.
• Heathers Design Blog: Musings on fashion now and fashion then, based on the exhibit “Fashioning Fashion” at LACMA.
• Independent Fashion Bloggers: Self-Promotion 101: It’s not about you
• LivLux Mag: ComfortZones: Even Fashionistas get insecure when trying new styles.
• Make the World a Prettier Place: History of Fashion: The New Look (1947)
• Miss Vinyl Ahoy: I’ve read some negative comments about the 30 for 30 challenge, and wanted to explain more of what it is and why people should care about it, from my POV.
• Modesty Theory: Welcome to Hijabi Fashion Week- showcasing the style of Muslim women for various occasions.
• Oh My Massila: Reflections on the crossroads between fashion and feminism.
• Previously Owned: The tale of the “00s” Vintage and the mockery of the consumer… Are we becoming victims of the mass media?
• RetroChick: Why Fashion isn’t Frivolous
• Return to Sender: Sometimes life gets in the way of fashion. How I Survive A Crisis
• Searching for Style: Fashion 101: Who Owns What. The lowdown on the big fashion conglomerates and the companies they own.
• Socialite Dreams: Sparkly, glam shoes are a must have for the holidays! Twinkle Toes: The Holiday Shoe Guide
• Taste and Style: Keep Being YOU.
• The Curvy Fashionista: How to determine quality in plus size fashion

SPONSOR:

Shopbop Boots:KORS, Joie, UGG, Coclico, Frye, L.A.M.B, Hunter, Frye, DV, Ash, & 12th St.

Ever wondered why that particular piece you envisioned is never available at stores? Ever wished you could place your personal stamp on the garments you wear? 

Well, Shimon and Ariel Ovadia certainly did. Born into a family with more than 25 years of experience in the garment business, twin brothers Shimon and Ariel’s destiny was bound to fashion right from the start. Growing up in such an enriching environment, imbued them with the ability to recognize and appreciate values (fashion wise) such as style, quality craftsmanship, fit and timelessness, paving the way for their future steps.  

Tired of the many tasteless and ephemeral menswear alternatives available at the market, they set out to establish their own brand, based on the premise of producing pieces they would wear themselves…and thus Ovadia & Sons was born. Their aim? Providing customers with luxury quality pieces made from some of the best fabrics in the world, exquisitely crafted to ensure a perfect fit and timeless design. Fabrics are obtained from the finest mills in such places as Japan, England or Italy and taken back to New York where their tailors work the magic. 

I could go on and on, but who better to enlighten you about the label than its creators? I was fortunate enough to have them answer a few of my questions and here’s what they had to say:

Q: The Ovadia Family is no newbie when it comes to the clothing industry, with over a quarter of a century of experience. While growing up, did you see yourselves taking over the family business or was it something that happened later on?

A: I think that was always the plan whether we liked it or not, it was in our blood, it’s what we know and love.

Q: How challenging was it for two creative young men to enter such a competitive market? 

A: It was challenging to get things started. All of the resources were new to us - we’re starting from scratch and we had to do a lot of legwork. Our knowledge and experience helped guide us and gave us a leg up to get things going. We often get asked “What fashion school did you go to?” - we didn’t. You can’t pay money for the hands on experience we’ve had. As far as competing with some of the other guys out there we were not impressed with what we were seeing in the stores with the exception of a very select few. We felt that there was a void in the market and the clothing we wanted to wear wasn’t accessible, didn’t fit or didn’t exist and that’s how the label was born. 

Q: Your label has been all over the Internet and press in reference magazines, blogs and websites. Were you expecting this kind of exposure? What helped you put your name out there?  

A: The whole thing was very organic.I guess people were simply liking what they were seeing. We’re very lucky and thankful to have had the support and exposure that we’ve been getting from everyone. 

Q: What would you say sets Ovadia & Sons the most apart from other labels?

A: Were not trying to reinvent the wheel. Every single piece we put out is wearable - its real clothing. The fit, the quality, the design. We don’t look at what anyone else is doing or the trend of the season we just do what we like and what we feel like wearing at the time. There are no gimmicks or trends, you can wear our items today and in 20 years. 

Q: I couldn’t help but notice your amazing logo comprised of two mirrored peacocks…Was the underlying symbolism taken into account when you chose the peacock?

A: We loved animals growing up and watched a lot of animal shows and still do. We wanted to incorporate that in our logo and we came up with the peacock- its very regal and elegant. There are two since we’re twins. 

Q: Are there are statement pieces in your collection? Which do you think scream out Ovadia & Sons?  

A: We love our double breasted suits. Our sport shirts and cargo pants as well. But it’s everything as a whole that makes it.

Q: Any advice for all the men out there?

A: It’s not really my advice but I’ll pass it along - ”Always do what you love and what you believe in, I was ready to walk then and I still walk away today” - Ralph Lauren told us that , it stuck with us.

Interview answered by Shimon Ovadia out of his New York apartment. Wednesday November 10th at 7:44 am over a cup of coffee and english muffins with cream cheese. National Geographic is playing in the background. 

Some pics from their Spring Summer 2011 collection:

Neckwear alternatives:

HELP ME GET LISTED  ON THE FASHION DIRECTORY

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Here are some pics of Beyond Fabric’s feature in this month’s Time Out Porto! Besides a small interview, the article featured three of my looks (from left to right: Night Out, Day and Winter) as well as a few items of my choice. 

Here’s some info about the looks:

Night Out - vintage navy vest, white dress shirt by Paul Smith, jeans by Levi’s (511 slim), Ibsen leather sneakers by Paul Smith and watch by Baume & Mercier.

Day - blazer by Giorgio Brato, oxford shirt by Our Legacy, chinos by ACNE, distressed brown boat shoes by Buttero and watch by Baume & Mercier.

Winter - trenchcoat by Paul Smith, white dress shirt by Carolina Herrera, jeans by Levi’s (511 slim), brogues by Henry James, patterned scarf by Épice, bag by Troop London and watch by Baume & Mercier.

Featured items:

APC New Standard Jeans, plaid Shirt by Massimo Dutti, brogues by Zara, watch by Bell & Ross, trenchcoat by Paul Smith, tie by Pierrepont Hicks and cologne by Dr. Harris.

On the first post we tried to demonstrate how important Body Language is and how much of our lives is constantly influenced by it on a daily basis. Taking into account the subject of this blog, we’ll try to provide relevant information on how Body Language may affect the Fashion industry. 

Picking up where we left off, emphasizing the subliminal messages that the simple act of crossing your arms can portray in a professional/working environment, we’ll now focus on how this line of thought can be applied to static imagery, such as pictures. 

The perception and judgement of one’s image/posture is processed not only in the presence of movement but also in its absence (models posing for campaigns, photoshoots, etc). In fact, this is something that can draw more than 50% of your subconscious attention span everyday. Despite being completely different contexts, the interpretation of one’s image bears the same weight in both situations, even if the final appreciation might differ.

I.e., although crossing your arms in a meeting can be associated with negative traits, in fashion photography it may be used as a means to portray a specific emotion or attitude, thus being ultimately beneficial when linked to this media context. 

The posture patterns used in images of the photographic market, make it easier to embed them with a contextualized significance and hence contribute to a satisfying result.

The subtle coolness of James Dean.

Raising your body consciousness and being aware of your limits is extremely useful in such a demanding and competitive market; however, this is something that requires a harmonious connection between mind and body and can only be attained through everyday work. 

In our understanding, this guidance can be translated to virtually all sectors of the working world, overlooking position or gender. Everyone should be able to move naturally without:

- Restriction of movement;

- Pain;

- Articulation (joints) instability; 

- Fatigue

- Etc.

which most of the times is not easily achieved. On the next posts we’ll provide you with simple, yet effective tips, which may help you prevent the above and enhance your body consciousness.

Written by: Miguel Vieira and Caroline Prufer (Physiotherapist specialized in Labor Health and Postural re-education). 

As I’ve mentioned in a previous post, I’ve recently been to Santander, Spain on work. Fortunately, I had some free time to walk around town (which is amazing by the way) and take a look at the traditional city center and its commerce. There I was, portraying the tourist stereotype as much as possible: camera on one hand, map on the other, roaming the ridiculously immaculate and organized streets on the expectation of finding something worth of notice. Being a tourist oriented seaside city, I was expecting fine shops of sorts, but I wasn’t ready for a fully stocked Barbour boutique. 

Located in Calle San José (a perpendicular street to the main seaside avenue), it’s impossible to miss this uniquely designed store, whose aesthetic fits the outerwear and hunting rooted label perfectly. The space resembles a rustic mountain lodge, marked by a predominant use of timber and embellished with taxidermic motifs and hunting related paintings. Arriving at the entrance you’re greeted by the brand’s slogan:  ”The best British clothing for the worst British weather”: if you’ve ever been to England you know how much sense it makes.

The entire store is dedicated to the British brand, with items ranging from its iconic waxed jackets to much more exquisite and hard to find pieces such as ties, gloves or cufflinks - all of which reek with the quality Barbour has got us used to. Among some of my favourite items were some amazing plaid shirts in flannel and heavy cotton, an amazing toggle coat and some regimental ties (counting out the outstanding waxed jackets, of course). 

For a Barbour enthusiast such as myself it’s easy to get carried away, so just hold on to that wallet. 

The owner, Edmundo González, also runs “Golf” - another great store on the same street worth checking out. If you ever visit Santander stop by!

I’ve been thinking about investing in a nice camera to help me take Beyond Fabric to the next level. I want something more compact and portable than a SLR, so I’ve been checking out these two:

Canon G12.

Nikon P7000.

Can you help me out? Feedback on these or other recommendations are welcome!

Thanks!

This Friday, Wrong Weather is hosting “Earth Matters”, a Trend Union Seminar focusing on the 2012 Summer season. The seminar will include a discussion of upcoming trends, with presentations by Li Edelkoort and Trend Union’s Creative Director Gert Van de Keuken. Besides all the insights, attendees will be given a trend summary book. I’ll be attending so expect a follow-up post about the session!

By Gracie Razo & Nerie Valles

www.urbane-menswear.com

The world of menswear is slowly changing. It’s now more popular and accessible to men who are seeing how easy it is to look good with the least amount of effort. The Don Drapers, stylish musicians and men who look like they’re straight out of a GQ editorial are showing how to be more creative in day-to-day dressing.

This world of suits and shiny dress shoes is evolving into new ideas. Feminine accents, brighter colors and more patterns are steering menswear into a whole other direction. However, the days of clean, tailored trousers and sturdy pairs of leather boots are not dead. Men are now finding the middle ground between the two to create their own sense of personal style.

Likes

A man who has his own style, no matter what he sees in stores or magazines, is always attractive. This man has the confidence to wear what he likes and to wear what he feels comfortable in to best express himself. If he likes relaxed fit denim, he’ll pair it with his favorite T-shirt. But if this man wants to throw on a sharp three-piece suit, he’ll do just that. So regardless of what a man is wearing, his confidence will always be appealing.

As for actual pieces, we have our favorites. Blazers are a great piece to see on men. To us, they completely say “man” loud and clear. Dressed up or down, they can project his personality depending on how he wears them. A trusty button-up is another simple piece that can really be a good staple in a man’s wardrobe, especially if the sleeves are rolled up after a long day. A man’s scent - as long as it’s a good one - is also essential. Whether he prefers the clean fragrance of his cologne or just his body wash and deodorant, a scent will always leave a long-lasting impression.

Other pieces like dark denim, brogues and a signature hairstyle are some of our favorites. But none of them would mean nearly anything if they aren’t worn with absolute confidence.

Dislikes

Just like we said, a good scent will leave an impression, but so can a bad one. Not showering or taking care of yourself is a definite turn off. But overall, not taking the time to show your personality on the outside is a negative for us. Playing with clothing to display emotion and feeling is just another way of seeing who that person really is.

Men who think wearing whatever is on the runway without incorporating their own personal favorites is not what we think of when we talk about style. Often times, people confuse style with fashion. We would take style - a personal array of likes and dislikes, no matter the current trends - over fashion any day. But this should also come with a willingness to explore new options. Progress and open mindedness is always a plus. If there is one thing we always stress to our blog readers, it is probably fit.

Is there anything worse than seeing a man with too-tight jeans or a suit jacket that looks two sizes too big? Not in our eyes.

RECOMMEND BEYOND FABRIC FOR THE FASHION DIRECTORY!!

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