The Houndstooth Hunting Jacket
While I can consider myself somewhat lucky for having a built that usually accommodates most ready to wear alternatives, nothing beats a garment that has been crafted specifically for your body and taste. Although bespoke is simply not an option for many of us, be it for economical reasons or the difficulty in finding quality local tailors, more and more brands and ateliers are currently offering the next best thing: made to measure.
A few weeks ago I was contacted by Knot Standard, a US based company that aims to deliver the perfect fit in every custom made garment they produce. In recent years the brand has been growing and assuming its place as a fine purveyor of tailored garments for distinct men, marking its presence both online and on several showrooms located in major cities such as New York, Washington DC, Los Angeles or Dubai. Unfortunately, being based in Portugal, I didn’t have a chance to visit one of their showrooms to enjoy a full bespoke experience, but I was happy to test run their exclusive online system. Knowing what goes into the making of a custom garment, I always find it interesting to understand how brands are able to find solutions to do it online, over the pond in this case. Knot Standard has developed a highly technological, yet simple to use system, where a 3D wireframe model of your body is created using your webcam. The whole process takes about 10/15 minutes and easy to follow instructions guide you throughout.
After choosing your favourite piece from their selection of garments, you are given the option to customise it extensively: everything from style, fit, lapel, pockets, lining, embroidery, buttonholes, vents, the works. Furthermore, their team of personal stylists is always available to help you with any questions. My choice was a brown houndstooth sports coat, in a supple wool/cashmere fabric, a British classic revamped to reflect my personal style. After a brief phone conversation with their head stylist, we decided to tweak to a 3 button hunting jacket with a roll lapel and added a few extras such as hand sewn canvas, milanese buttonholes and extra inner pockets for cigars. I must say I was absolutely impressed with the end result: the fabric feels luxurious, the attention to detail is superb and the fit is almost flawless…my only complaint is that the sleeve length could be 1cm longer. Other than that, it absolutely portrays my request of a snug fitting winter sports coat, meant to be worn with a shirt and and cardigan beneath at most.
Here I went with a more casual, yet polished approach to the hunting universe, pairing it with worn down denim and brown ankle boots. The balance is achieved through layering of a light blue spread collar shirt and wool vest, as well as accessories, such the silk knit tie and floral pocket square. The play on casual/refined elements is something I love to experience with in order to deliver my own personal take and identity to any look.
Details: houndstooth hunting jacket by Knot Standard, spread collar shirt by IGN Joseph, vintage wool vest, Levi’s 511, leather boots by Buttero, shades by Linda Farrow Luxe, silk knit tie by Carolina Herrera, vintage braided belt and pocket square by Lobo Marinho.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Filipa Alves
Camoshita SS15 Pitti Preview
Yet another outstanding selection from one of my favourite designers and style inspirations. Yasuto Kamoshita keeps on delivering perfectly balanced collections that combine tailored and casual elements with unique sophistication. A representation of his personal style, the collection merges a variety of influences that translate into a brilliant mix of colours, patterns, textures and luxurious fabrics. Apart from the inherent visual appeal, the pieces on display just screamed to be experienced in person: bouclé effects, open weave knits, seersucker suits and blazers, lightweight cottons or brushed jerseys create a distinct universe where even the simplest of garments is on another level.
Ph: Beyond Fabric
Larose Zipper Fedoras
Boglioli AW14 Lookbook
It’s interesting to see how one of the epitomes of Italian suiting keeps on delivering refreshing takes on classic menswear staples. With a keen eye for the latest trends, Boglioli seamlessly incorporates small tweaks to their offerings, adjusting everything from fit, washes, length, textures, colors and superb use of accessories.
Society’s Burden on Personal Style
One of the most outspoken clichés when it comes to style and personality (or many of life’s aspects for that matter), is undoubtedly to “be yourself” and “pay no attention to what other people think”. This motto is considered one of life’s lessons and to actually achieve it, an elevated form of enlightenment available only to a select few. While it sounds like common sense and resonates with the vast majority of us, the truth is that to some extent, we are all subject to society’s pre-conceptions. Now, I’m not referring to the notions of what is socially acceptable or demandable; I’m focusing on much shallower, superfluous criteria of what is considered “normal” or generally expected as a variation of it.
I’m happy to announce that the winner of the giveaway and proud new owner of a pair of Rokin shoes is: Christopher Crossley! Congrats and hope you will put them to good use! I will get in touch shortly.
Thank you to all who entered the giveaway and stay tuned for upcoming opportunities.