Favouring the Underdog
There are some realities in the world that are kept from us by an illusory curtain, until the time comes to actually experience them first hand. As so many other things in life, fashion also plays a part in this universe of illusions, which is more apparent to some than others…
I won’t get too deep into the issue of branding, as by now it would be almost like preaching to the choir, but I’d like to write a brief reflection and bring forth some topics on why I favour smaller labels.
First and foremost, I hope enlightenment has come to you at some point that big names and reputation don’t necessarily translate into quality; unfortunately, in some cases, it’s quite the opposite. Don’t get me wrong, most fashion giants deserve their hardly-earned reputation. I’m a fan of some of them, but the truth remains that the values, legacy and heritage left by their founders are slowly being put to shame by an ever-growing urge for profit. Bear with me…Of course at the end of the day it all comes down to business, fashion represents massive revenues, but in my modest opinion, business can be run in several ways.
Working in the industry for some time now, has opened my mind to the harsh realities behind major labels. For me, the biggest disappointment was witnessing how passion is lost throughout the years and profit alone dictates everything as newer generations and luxury groups take over. I wholeheartedly believe passion has to be part of the equation, in order to create a connection to consumers and actually produce something unique (that stands out for something other than a particular label). Common scenario…Imagine a brand that starts out set to deliver quality and attention to detail in each piece, sourcing the best fabrics and working with the best manufacturers (within its budget): say the original retail price is €100.
Lots of hype, global praise and several raving reviews later, it assumes a cult/exclusivity status, allowing it to increase prices to + €300 (not all manage to do it, but there are several successful examples out there). Although it’s stellar to achieve such an increase in margin and markup, let’s keep in mind they were already making money to begin with…So, one would think that the logic thing to do would be to make the most of this extra breathing space and try to upgrade your product, slowly and even if ever so slightly: better fabrics, materials, quality and craftsmanship, all while enjoying the recent found success of course.
Reality is quite different I’m afraid. Once that leap occurs and brands gain market recognition and dimension, the majority of them work exactly in the opposite way, pressuring manufacturers for lower prices often achieved at the cost of all of the aforementioned. As fashion becomes ultimately a question of numbers, where major brands are run by financial departments, it’s up to us as consumers, experts or aficionados, to actively make thoughtful choices and spend our hard-earned money where it’s actually worth it, instead of merely considering insignias or status.
Miguel Amaral Vieira
1ST PAT-RN SS14 Lookbook
A curated selection of looks by Yasuto Kamoshita
Inventory SS14 Lookbook
Onfront SS14 Neckwear Collection
Store Visit: Osklen, Miami
I’ve been keeping a close eye on Osklen since 2007, back when I lived in Florianópolis (Brazil) and had a chance to really get in touch with the brand. Although my personal style has come a long way since then, evolving and adapting to a more mature perspective, all of the pieces I purchased at the time are still present in my wardrobe. As such, I was pleasantly surprised to come across the brand’s Lincoln Road store during my recent stay in Miami.
Founded by Oskar Metsavaht, a gifted creative director working in a myriad of areas such as fashion, design, media and social-environmental projects, the brand carries a distinctive trademark aesthetic and universe which embodies all of the above. As a worldwide renowned patron of ecology and sustainability, Oskar stands at the helm of the “new luxury” movement, focusing on how top tier fashion labels can be run in a sustainable, environmental-friendly way. Osklen is, as expected, a paramount player in this field.
As a matter of fact, it’s a serious player in many others as well, alas without the rightful praise it deserves…In my opinion, Osklen is one of the most underrated luxury labels out there, namely due to a stagnant misperception that associates it solely with beach and surf wear. Although there’s an undeniable influence of its Brazilian roots in each collection, beachwear is but a part of a more complex, luxurious universe. So much so, that in 2011 it was awarded the title of “Emerging Luxury Brand of the Year”.
A closer look at the current SS14 collection, for instance, reveals a wide spectrum of exquisite offerings including suits, blazers, shirts, knitwear and the much sought sneakers and loafers. This would be the minimum requirement for any collection, if it weren’t for the fact that every single piece stands out on its own, be it through design and details or the high-quality fabrics and techniques used in its manufacturing. Garment-dye and prints are applied to 100% natural fibers such as soft “brushed” organic cotton and linen, while unconventional materials such as salmon skin make their way into sneakers…all with outstanding quality. That being said, next time you step into an Osklen store consider carefully browsing the entire collection instead of the swim shorts alone.
Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ignoring your passion is slow suicide. Never ignore what your heart pumps for. Mold your career around your lifestyle not your lifestyle around your career.